Another No Start Problem

[Bravo2Uniform]

I have searched through the archives and have not found the answer to my problem, some very similar, though. Also, I'm not very good with electrical issues, but I did try the trouble shooting stuff in the TM.

Here's the problem: turn the key, hear a single loud click and nothing else. No turning over, no other sounds, just lonely silence.

The voltmeter reads in the yellow area when the ignition is turned on.

Headlights are good, bright and shiny.

GP system appears to be working properly.

I have new batteries and have checked them, they are good.

I just had the starter and flywheel replaced. It is a gear reduction starter, 24 volt, etc.

I can see no burnt or deformed fuse links.

No burnt fuses.

Checked and cleaned the dash mounted starter relay.

I have tried moving the gear shift lever to neutral and still get the same start issue.

I did notice the brake light blinking on and off rapidly when the initial failure to start occurred; since then it has acted normally.

The starter solenoid is warm to the touch after trying to start. As best I can tell it is getting 24 volts, it was hard to get the multi-meter in there.

This problem happened just recently, but it started on the next try. Today, I started it, no problem, then the next time it wouldn't start.

I am afraid the starter is bad but I would like to not believe that.

 

[davidkroberts]

does sound like a starter though..... can you pull it and get it tested?

If it was a battery/ relay/connection issue it probably wouldnt have worked this last time.

Have you checked the connections going to the starter itself and the grounds

 

[91W350]

I agree, be sure your connections are all good. My first M1008 would do this occasionally and if I could get somebody else to hold the key in the start position, the closest battery terminal to the radiator on mine would blow a whiff of smoke. Enough contact to run everything else, but not enough to start the starter, click and quit.

More commonly though, it is the starter brushes. They frequently will work cold and not hot. Eventually they get unreliable cold. I just pull mine and have them done as preventive maintenance. A lot of times you can have somebody hold the key in the start position while you lightly tap the starter on the aluminum bell and not on the starter winding case, the starter will take off and start the truck. There will come a day though when the hammer tap will no longer shake the brushes into contact. Glen

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

It sounds like bad connections to me. Check them all for tightness and good crimps.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

Checked connections

I have re-checked the connections and all seem tight and correct.

I tried the tap the starter bell solution but no start.

What have I missed here?

Shouldn't a starter have given me some indications of failure...not the intermittant problem that is now a constant problem.

 

[Mudstone]

i'm going to bet on a bad connection... check grounds.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

One Step Closer

I got the courage to jump my starter and it worked. I am now tracing wiring back to the starter relay. I know the following:

Good batteries.

Good power to starter.

Good starter.

I think the audible click I'm hearing is the GP relay, which sounds louder with the hood up.

So I guess the question is: would the GP circuit activate at key turn and not require the starter relay? Since the problem was intermittant, I am thinking a bad relay of some sort.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

Yes the glow plug relay activates when you turn key on.From what you said I would do the doghead starter relay change if it has not been done yet. and with the purple with white stripe wire unpluged check with you meter turn key to start several times may have a ignition switch going bad! Its on the top left side of colume with a plug and small metal rod from key tumbler that may be your problem may just be a loose plug there? let us know

 

[rnd-motorsports]

Just for your info the start circit is all by it self! in line you turn key push small rod that slides a switch (the ingnition switch) witch sends power threw purple with white stripe to the start relay (under dash by the diagnostic plug under ash tray) "DOGHEAD STARTER RELAY" that switch turns on and sends 24 volt to the starter threw the purple wire and that is the whole thing! the nuetral safty switch is a power interupter to the ignition switch it stops power to switch unless in park or neutral it is also located on steering colume on top at or just before firewall half moon shaped

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

Repaired...sort of

It was the sarter relay. I did the doghead modification and voila...

But now my H20, WTS and Volt meter aren't working...

And my turn signals start without the key in the ignition....

At least it starts!

 

[Barrman]

Blinkers always work with the key off.

Check your bottom middle fuse. That is the fuse for the volt meter. However, the Gen 2 light normally won't come on either if that fuse is blown. Pretty much, go through the -20 steps for each of the problems and check all the simple stuff like fuses and connections.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

I took one more look at the -20 schematic and traced everything back to that fuse...which was missing! I had put it in the wrong slot during a previous check. That's why everyone always says start at the beginning with the TM and work the problem that way.

 

[Warthog]

I took one more look at the -20 schematic and traced everything back to that fuse...which was missing! I had put it in the wrong slot during a previous check. That's why everyone always says start at the beginning with the TM and work the problem that way.