Antifreeze INSIDE of truck!

[Dave 52804]

While driving the other day, I thought I could smell antifreeze. I drive mainly in the dark, but today I got off work early so it was still light out. I could smell the antifreeze again, and happened to glance down at the passenger side floor. There was a decent amount of antifreeze there! When I got home I checked the coolant levels in the plastic tank and the radiator. The tank was empty, and the radiator was a little low. So where's the coolant coming from? Is it OK to drive the truck like this assuming I keep checking the coolant levels? Thanks for the help guys.

 

[dave wells]

sounds like busted heater core i just had same problem easy fix but could be bad if you keep driving it cause if coolant does get to low then could over heat....if it is all you have to drive then you can bypass your heater core till you can replace it

 

[Westech]

Take it to your auto mechanic and have the heater core replaced along with the rubber hoses.

 

[Dave 52804]

Thanks for the imput gents. Merry X-mas to all of you.

 

[D T]

vehicles have presuerized systems so any time you have a leak,you dont have presure,and that makes them get hot quick.I ve had blown head gaskets caused by a leaky heater core,its not a winning gamble,you could easly cook youre whole motor

 

[WARWAG]

Bad hose or heater core.

 

[emr]

it is where the heat comes from to warm your tootsies,...first the motor, then it goes to the what is called the heater core, and warm/hot radiator fluid runs thru it after being heated by your motor , that is why U do not have instant heat also, the motor must be warm first, then the heat can exchange into the cab thru the core, and when it rusts out it leaks, sure U can drive it it will not blow up, but when the radiator fluid runs out U will over heat the motor and ruin it, its not a big deal, a good time to flush the system also.

 

[twright]

You can get a heater core for a round 25.00 not hard to replace one of the easy ones to do.
AEC Retired Tony

 

[Maxwell1815]

I would have suggested the heater core, but it may have been mentioned a couple of times. I am

too slow

 

[jimmy-90]

Get the heater core that is in the truck rebuilt. If you use the replacement one that the auto parts stores give you for a CK 30 it will not work very well. Believe me I have one in my truck right now and it doesn't work anywhere near as good as the mil-spec one. And also it is a very easy part to replace on cucv's. It takes less than an hour to do it.

 

[taildragger03]

Hey Merry Christmas too you!
Oh, yes, bad heater core.

 

[RANDYDIRT]

Don't run your defroster, it'll coat the windshield with ethylene glycol steam. It's a pain to clean.

Dirt

 

[Rthomas]

Fig. 23 Heater distributor assembly. C, K, R & V models less A/C

C, K, R & V MODELS
Less A/C

1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
2. Disconnect heater hoses at core, then plug core tubes to prevent coolant spillage.
3. Working from engine compartment, remove distributor duct stud attaching nuts.
4. Remove glove box and door assembly.
5. Disconnect air-defrost and temperature door cables.
6. Remove floor outlet, then the defroster duct to heater distributor duct attaching screw.
7. Remove heater distributor to dash panel attaching screws, Fig. 23.
8. Pull distributor rearward, then disconnect all harnesses that will interfere with distributor removal.
9. Remove heater distributor from vehicle.
10. Remove heater core retaining straps, then the heater core.
11. Reverse procedure to install.

Fig. 24 A/C & heater assembly. C, K, R & V models

With A/C

1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
2. Disconnect heater hoses at core and plug core tubes.
3. Remove glove box assembly.
4. Remove screws at center duct to selector duct/instrument panel. Remove center upper and lower ducts.
5. Disconnect bowden cable at temperature door.
6. Remove nuts at selector duct studs (projecting through firewall). Remove selector duct to firewall screw.
7. Draw selector duct assembly rearward so core tubes clear firewall. Lower assembly sufficiently to remove vacuum lines and harness connections.
8. Remove selector duct assembly. Disconnect core mounting straps and remove core, Fig. 24.
9. Reverse procedure to install.

 

[Midnight Rider]

I didn't disconnect anything from my batteries when I replaced my heater core. I think I have read where others removed one of the batteries as well.

I also got the heater core replacement from NAPA. It seems to work just as fine as the original.
However, if someone thinks the originals are so great, just PM me and you can have my original one to repair for the price of shipping. I will add that I guess the one I removed was an original. Is there any way to tell for sure?

 

[jimmy-90]

I didn't disconnect anything from my batteries when I replaced my heater core. I think I have read where others removed one of the batteries as well.

I also got the heater core replacement from NAPA. It seems to work just as fine as the original.
However, if someone thinks the originals are so great, just PM me and you can have my original one to repair for the price of shipping. I will add that I guess the one I removed was an original. Is there any way to tell for sure?

Is the one that you removed thicker and made out of brass?

 

[colin455]

As cheap insurance you can do one other thing too. When you replace your heater core and rubber hoses, refill it with a Quality antifreeze and distilled/bottled water. Like the kind in the 5gal jugs at the store or the 1 gallons in the water/pop aisle. They contain no minerals, flouride or salt (like some sports waters). This will help minimalize buildup on your radiator core internals. You can also do a Ph test on your coolant and replace it when it gets too acidic. For a couple bucks it helps your new rad/heater core last longer.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Is the one that you removed thicker and made out of brass?

I'm not sure. I'll have to check that out. I've still got it in the box.