Any last minute tips for shoting Gillespie paint

[red devils dude]

ok let's see first how cold can I shot this stuff before it runs real bad?
The spots where there's like 60% old paint or primer and 40% bare metal
how should I prime just shoot the whole thing or what? two how many
under coats should I have 2-3? I have some lacquer primer should I
use this over the Red Oxide primer as the 2 and 3 under coats?
more too come in the moring.

 

[eddiec]

the warmer the better, cold air and cold metal do not react well with paint, it will take forever to dry, and yes, it will be more likely to run. prime the entire truck, but scuff or sand it first, before each coat if not in a clean environment. and for goodness sakes, do not run your fingers over the body after eating anything greasy, unless you plan to wash and dry it before the next coat. (the cleaner the better)

 

[red devils dude]

got that stuff, I'm just doing the engine and engine compartment front axle etc
I'm useing lights(BIG one's) to help keep everything warm and I hope it will be 50° out when I paint.

 

[CGarbee]

Try not to thin it as much as you would in the summer, try to shoot light (thin) coats, give it a lot of time to dry before you hit the next coat, don't worry if it runs here and there and you have to sand and touch up...
I've shot some stuff on really cold days (yes, we get them now and again...) and have done ok but I really prefer to shoot when it is at least seventy...
Good luck

 

[Jones]

How good a finish you want will dictate how much care you put into the prep work. Asking questions is a great way to get a lot of tips and experience. If you want a show car finish then taking extra care will produce the desired results. If you want to duplicate the "military/original" finish I can show you pictures of my HEMTT cab which has paint runs that look like frozen waterfalls... and that's in the factory paint job.
Looking forward to seeing your finished rig so take lots of pictures and, keep up the good work.

 

[ida34]

I plan on just knocking off the flaking paint and sandblasting the rust. I will then shoot red oxide on the bare metal. I will then chalk out the lines for the 3 color woodland pattern and shoot away. I will probably put down a base coat of green first. I won't put in too much prep time. That will ensure the paint will have that authentic military look. I will not go as far as all the overspray in a quick deployment type paint job. I will try to sand down the brush marks from the previous camo paint job. My mustang will get considerably more attention.

 

[Jones]

Good tactic. The manuals, and paint suppliers, all say the base color coat should be continuous so that there are no thin spots or gaps when the other colors are applied. They also say that the chalk lines, are only a guide and not carved in stone; so don't worry about getting docked for coloring outside the lines.
Happy shooting.

 

[red devils dude]

I'm takeing lot's of pic's I really like the camo pattern on my truck so I want it to look just like it is now.
whats the best way to scuff sand with a 9 inch grinder

 

[Jones]

A 9" grinder will work almost too fast so I'd use a finer grit disc, maybe 120 or higher and go lightly until you see how fast it cuts and you get a feel for it. Keep the disc face as close to flat on the surface as you can. Just use the edge for tight spots and then very light passes. Easier to keep taking more off than to try to put it back on. Don't want to be down to bare metal before you realize it.

 

[red devils dude]

how about those Scotch-Brite Bristle Disc thing's looks like they would work better because they can
contour to the surface?

 

[TACMED]

Problem with scotchbrite pads is that they cut well, they just gum up too fast

 

[red devils dude]

hhhmm thanks TACMED

 

[rdixiemiller]

You don't want to sand with a grinder. You'll have swirl marks from Hell. Get a DA sander, either air or electric, depending on how good a compressor you have. I would look at 240 grit for the worst areas, finish with 320. You can use 180 for heavily rusted areas.
If the paint is nice and tight, just scuff it up with 320 on a DA. Shoot 2 light coats of red oxide on the bare metal areas. With an alkyd enamel, you can recoat without priming. If you have rust pits that you don't want to sand really hard (thins the metal), use some OsPho or a similar phosphatizing rust converter before you prime.
You are not trying for a hot rod quality finish, it would be out of place on an MV. If the weather is cold, you will have to be really careful you don't get a lot of runs.

 

[red devils dude]

my air compressor is giveing out so only electric prep tools, the paint on the frame is gone just primer there now
the engine has ok paint and the axle has pretty solid paint the hood and fenders are geting sandblasted,

 

[red devils dude]

up date apparently I have a electric DA sander a square one like 3"X6"