Any Pics/Info of a 5.9 Cummins install?

[Wildchild467]

I have looked on the site for a while and havent found any pictures or a lot of information about swapping a 5.9 in a Deuce. As you guys can see, im a new guy and still learning a lot with deuces. My dad and i have built street rods and such, so i have a general idea about re-powering vehicles. The deuce is on a way bigger scale and then you start messing with SAE bellhousings and such, thats where it gets confusing for me. I know that the divorced t-case is helpful for a repower and it opens a lot of doors to what you could put under the hood. Can somebody point me to where i could find more information about re-powering with a Cummins? it seems like the Cummins would be the most bang for the buck, right? Are they cheaper and easier to find than a Cat?I believe the 5.9 is a good engine, i dont know what Cat engine would be similiar to a cummins. I am thinking the 5.9 (or equiviliant) would offer better fuel economy and power vs. the Mulit. Feel free to give me a schoolin' about the topic! It seems like people talk about re-powering all the time but i dont seem to find the posts and pictures. I tried, i really did! haha

 

[BIGdaddycatlin]

the cummins would be your best choice for such a project but the 3126 cats are around the same size but personally id stay far away from catipiller as possible as the parts tend to be alot more costly and the 3126 engines are no were near as reliable as the 5.9

 

[Angus1]

I have a 5.9 on a trailer for another project. i can take pics of it if you want. ive seen them go anywhere from 800 to 2000 dollars.

 

[Wildchild467]

My dad's friend has a 5.9, and i think its a 12 valve. He was going to put it in a jeep, but since sold the jeep. Im just getting ideas. what about putting in a a GM 6.2 or a 6.5. i believe the 6.2 is a turbo? Are these decent engines and is the bell housing the common GM style? What would be the easiest engine upgrade for the deuce to install? I realize there always is custom fabrication. I read on another post, the multi is a good engine and has good power but not past 30-35mph. But then again thats the nature of the deuce....half the fun of driving them is that you have to "drive" it. no power steering and all the power is in gearing )

 

[Digger09]

I dont know about the swap but the 5.9 is definately the best engine for the buck. Super reliable inline 6. I think you have more fab work putting in a v8 diesel. Check TDR ( TOTAL DIESEL REGISTRY) you can probebly find some help there. good luck.

 

[russ81]

I've installed a 5.9 into my deuce, and am getting ready to install the transmission. I've had quite a battle trying to match up my 2003 motor to the stock tranny. there are some minor differences with the back of the motor. I've went through several adapter plates that were supposed to mount up to my engine, but I found slight variations that kept it from happening, so I said to heck with it and just bought a NV4500. With divorce mount transfer it is irrelevant any way. Use what ever transmission you want.

Also, the 5.9 fits perfectly. I was worried about a "V" configuration since the front end is designed for an inline, but several people here have made it work.

For some pictures, check out my thread "work on the War Pig continues". I show several pictures of the engine install and motor mounts I fabricated.

 

[Trango]

My dad's friend has a 5.9, and i think its a 12 valve. He was going to put it in a jeep, but since sold the jeep. Im just getting ideas. what about putting in a a GM 6.2 or a 6.5. i believe the 6.2 is a turbo? Are these decent engines and is the bell housing the common GM style? What would be the easiest engine upgrade for the deuce to install? I realize there always is custom fabrication. I read on another post, the multi is a good engine and has good power but not past 30-35mph. But then again thats the nature of the deuce....half the fun of driving them is that you have to "drive" it. no power steering and all the power is in gearing )

If you are making a decision between the GM 6.2/6.5 and the Cummins 5.9, there is no comparison - the 5.9 is a much better engine.

 

[Flat Black]

^^

x32,000

DO NOT put a GM 6.2 or 6.5L into a deuce. It was a dog in a suburban and the other trucks that it came in stock. By the time you build a nice one with turbos and intercoolers, etc., you could have done a Cummins.

The only other consideration would be to get a second gen Duramax or newer (LLY or LBZ) but not too new where you get into lots of electronics and emissions stuff.

A 12 valve B series from 94-98 is the best bet for simplicity with 96-98 being the most desirable. In 98.5 they went to a VP44 pump, which is not a great pump, compared to the Bosch P7100 pump. An early B series, which uses a VE Rotary pump also made by Bosch. Diesel Power Magazine has been doing a build up over the last few issues on an early model truck and they have achieved over 400 crank HP from this motor with pretty simple mods. So it is an option also.

All of the Duramax motors are common rail and are going to have more electrics than the VE pump or P Pumo Cummins. If you could get an entire driveline out of a wrecked 4x4 Silverado, you would be set, make motor mounts and cross members and drop it in

Could do the same thing with the Cummins motor, just dont get an auto tranny unless you plan on building it, the stock ones arent that great.

A wet and dressed ISB is about 1200 pounds, so while its not a light motor, it will probably weigh less than the pig that comes out of it. The older Cummins motors will tolerate alternative fuels such as veggie, bio and ATF mixes much better than the newer ones will.

 

[6X6 ALL THE WAY]

What do you guys think about putting a 5.9 common rail out of a '05 dodge i a bobber? I might get the engine for free and I've been told that i can get a computer from cummins to run it. I think it has around 125,000 miles on it. Haven't figured out what ranny i want to use yet though

 

[rwbrown72]

This is something I have thought about doing with a M37. Keep the ideas coming!

 

[Sephirothq]

the newer engines had more power from the factory but you can get a lot of power from the 12V.

If you go with the newer engine like a 2005 what transmission did it come with? IF you had a manual transmission you might want to keep it together. depending on the year it would be a 6 speed with either a .74, .73 or .79 of gear. better then the spicer 5 speed.
If you don't have the engine but it came from a manual trans let me know if you would be willing to part with the adapter plate i am looking for one from a G56 transmission.

you can get a painless harness if you have the factory computer but you would need to run that on 12 volts.

You might as well convert the truck to 12 volts.

Keep us posted.

 

[gringeltaube]

........................... I've had quite a battle trying to match up my 2003 motor to the stock tranny...............................

...So probably your engine didn't come from factory with the SAE#2 bellhousing and a nice 17.5" O.D. flywheel to accept a 14" clutch disk & pressure plate....?
Because that's all we need, plus a SAE#2 to #3 adapter ring, to mate our Spicer 3053, and of course keeping the stock throw-out bearing and linkage.

It took a while but at the end I got lucky enough to find all ingredients for this very next proyect. Time is the only problem.... but pics plus drawings with dimensions of the components are already available if interested.

G.

 

[Sephirothq]

there is an SAE#2 bell on ebay now for $75

 

[trukhead]

Don't know for sure but...

I thought I found and verified that there was a 4 cylinder version of the 12 valve engine and it appeared in front of GM patterned transmissions in delivery trucks. If that is the case perhaps that plate is removable. I am guessing as I have never seen the end of these engines. I only see the one in my 89 1 ton 2 wheel drive Dodge with a 5 speed manual tranny.




If the engine has a removable rear plate that fits gm one could use a th 400 or an overdrive automatic or manual tranny of choice.


I thought of using a high windin small block and an auto tranny or a torquey big block in front of a th 400. I think the brakes are the limiting factor on the duece.

My M35A3 brakes are none to quick as a comparable civi vehicle but they do work.
I think a better pedal arrangement and linkage would make everyday traffic use more responsive and the drum brakes remind me of my old 67 f100's brakes.

 

[Atomic]

This is something I have thought about doing with a M37. Keep the ideas coming!

rwbrown- I had the same idea except for a civi PW. That is until I read an article in PW advertiser that detailed a swap. Bottom line (for me anyway) was that he is the man! I do not pocess the skills/shop to do that. It was a three part article. He had to do tons of fab work to make it look stock. Mostly he had to change the height of the cab, hood, front clip and he cut out the firewall. the guys at mseriesrebuild com have almost perfected the swap of the flat six with a cummins 4bta. Thats the route I'll go if and when finaces allow. If you go the way of the 5.9 please, please post some pics.

 

[nhdiesel]

I thought I found and verified that there was a 4 cylinder version of the 12 valve engine and it appeared in front of GM patterned transmissions in delivery trucks. If that is the case perhaps that plate is removable. I am guessing as I have never seen the end of these engines. I only see the one in my 89 1 ton 2 wheel drive Dodge with a 5 speed manual tranny.




If the engine has a removable rear plate that fits gm one could use a th 400 or an overdrive automatic or manual tranny of choice.

That would be the 3.9 liter, 4bt Cummins. Its exactly like a 5.9 12-valve, except minus 2 cylinders. Front and rear of the block is the same. They are most common in old Frito Lay step vans, and most common with the GM adapter, but some had Ford. The typical GM trans was a TH475, essentially a 400 on steroids. I still wouldn't put one behind a 5.9, unless you didn't use it too hard, and the engine was stock. Otherwise, a better choice for an auto would be an Allison.

I have the 3.9 in a 2000 Dodge Durango, hooked to a Dodge NV4500 5-speed.

For the Deuce, the 5.9 would be a great choice, and I keep debating whether to use my 5.9 Cummins in my other Deuce. The only thing stopping me is the free fuel capability of the multifuel. Also, I tried mating the 5.9 to a Spicer trans when I was going to swap a Spicer into my Ram, but the only person i had found who knew the part number of the necessary flywheel wouldn't give up the part number, and wouldn't even sell the flywheel unless I was going to pay him to put a Cummins in a Deuce. I ended up getting rid of the Spicer, although I still have the SAE flywheel housing for the Cummins.

Now if I were going to put a Cummins in a Deuce, I'd use a 6, 7, or 9 speed medium duty trans.

Jim

 

[PawnShopEd]

^^

x32,000

DO NOT put a GM 6.2 or 6.5L into a deuce. It was a dog in a suburban and the other trucks that it came in stock. By the time you build a nice one with turbos and intercoolers, etc., you could have done a Cummins.

The only other consideration would be to get a second gen Duramax or newer (LLY or LBZ) but not too new where you get into lots of electronics and emissions stuff.

A 12 valve B series from 94-98 is the best bet for simplicity with 96-98 being the most desirable. In 98.5 they went to a VP44 pump, which is not a great pump, compared to the Bosch P7100 pump. An early B series, which uses a VE Rotary pump also made by Bosch. Diesel Power Magazine has been doing a build up over the last few issues on an early model truck and they have achieved over 400 crank HP from this motor with pretty simple mods. So it is an option also.

All of the Duramax motors are common rail and are going to have more electrics than the VE pump or P Pumo Cummins. If you could get an entire driveline out of a wrecked 4x4 Silverado, you would be set, make motor mounts and cross members and drop it in

Could do the same thing with the Cummins motor, just dont get an auto tranny unless you plan on building it, the stock ones arent that great.

A wet and dressed ISB is about 1200 pounds, so while its not a light motor, it will probably weigh less than the pig that comes out of it. The older Cummins motors will tolerate alternative fuels such as veggie, bio and ATF mixes much better than the newer ones will.

Hey I just started the endevour to install a d-max into my parts deuce to make something rodded I can drive more comfortably and more often. I'm kind of lucky to have some of the metal tools and metal fab skills I do at my disposal. But after I get it done I plan on saveing any bracketry or such I make in my CNC software so if anyone likes the finished product I'll sell them the mounts and brackets for just a little over cost. But my main response to the above is if your going to do a D-max. You want to go with any gen you can minus the LLY which has cooling problems especially the turbo mouthpiece, up pipes. It's essentially the same motor as the LB7 first gen which has it's flaws as well when hopped up but they are abundant and parts and upgrades are cheap. The best to get is the 06-07 LBZ which is as great motor, the 07.5 to 2010 LMM which is an immissions truck but it's an exhaust emmissions system not a motor emissions systems all Duramax's minus the LB7 have EGR emmissions on them which can be removed quite easily. And the new 2011 trucks are a good power plant as well. I tune duramax's all day about 20 a week with efi live for raceing, towing, etc. Even good ol smoke and lope tunes. The benefit of a duramax motor is in stock form on a stock allison or zf-6 speed you can put out RWHP 410HP 8xx ish torque without any worrys, On a built trans (about $4400 from big dipper here in baltimore the premier dmax trans builder) that trans can handle up to 1000 plus as long as your not chop shifting.... nailing into it letting off it shifts and then nailing back in again which with the torque these put out will rip the c2 and c3's apart and can snap an imput shaft. ) and on stock turbo and injectors can handle 530RWHP which is about 11xx torque. (thats what my 08 dyno's at last fall) And still drive as normal as a stock truck would the pedal response is lovely. Twins you can do for $3200 which will lower your egts nicely for towing or playing etc and put you up to 850RWHP with a base kit which is alot of Hp, I mean these motors in a 6800lb truck at 680rwhp which is the max power you can produce without internals, useing a stock charger as your secondary which is nice for the vvt, and stock injectors and stock fuel system and is a 11.5-11.7. Plus the motor has an extra stock altinator spot which allows you to keep your lighting the same and run a 24v alt for that and the 12v for the truck. And the nice part is the newer 07.5's and up have much better injectors for the ulsd, so in a lb7 at 7500lb with a 6 speed manual I've tuned to get about 20mpg city on a 530hp tune and 24 hwy - on the lmm's with the alison and 6800lb there getting around 18-city, 21 hwy. And pulling my deuce on my trailer (totally illegal as ****) 7200lb in my truck with some extra tools and chains in the bed , 6800lb trailer and my old deuce 13,300lb I get about 11mpg locally and 13 hwy.
Not trying to say it's the best way I just like doing things a bit different and have heard alot of guys on here ask about the dmax and it's possibilities in a deuce and ease of fit etc. So thought i would put some info up and you all can make your own decisions

Some of the problems I do forsee is getting a big enough intercooler, to fit, and then the deuces limitations hardware wise.

I do have a couple of questions if you guys could give me some suggestions on this though...
How much power will a stock Deuce t-case / axles handle? Also with the motors you guys have tried cummins etc, was the radiator enough to cool the larger motors?

If anyone is interested I have a 5.9 for sale I would let a fellow member have cheap I loaned some money against it to a friend and he ended up rolling out. 02 24v everything perfect minus the head which was built i just sold. turns over has the starter on it ac , lift pump etc. $500 lb and the motors anyones.

 

[deuce_09]

a 6.2 or 6.5 is no where near as good as a 5.9 cummins...even if they were twin turbo'd...
my opinion. id defenatly go with a 5.9 cant beat a cummins

 

[seve7]

first off, the 6.2 and 6.5 diesels cant even be compared to the cummins, speaking of using a 6.5 turbo diesel daily in iraq, they seriously last about 1000 hours or 10,000 miles before they are more than worn out in a 12,000lbs humvee.

the best and easiest for the swap would be grabbing a complete running gear out of an 89-93 ram. the getrag trans isnt as good as a nv4500, but it works fine, and dont even think about using the chrysler auto. the early dodge cummins trucks have the bosch rotary pump which is basically free to turn up, and with the intercooled years they can make decent power, more than most people will need in a deuce. the best part about these engines is the only electronics on them are the actual lift pump, so these are basically fail proof with regards to water fording. these engines will also blow the cat, and gm, w/c/h diesels out of the water in fuel economy. iirc the intercooled 5.9 in 92/93 were rated with even more power than the cat 3116 in the a3 trucks. and the best part is cummins reliability.

if considering using a computer controlled diesel, i recommend that you look at the amount of wires involved, part of the attraction the deuces is their utter simplicity, i mean they make a jeep look complicated.

 

[PawnShopEd]

a 6.2 or 6.5 is no where near as good as a 5.9 cummins...even if they were twin turbo'd...
my opinion. id defenatly go with a 5.9 cant beat a cummins

Whos talking about a 6.2 or 6.5? the 6.2 and 6.5 are dogs dmaxs didnt start to 2001. I'm talking about a 6.6L Dmax lol I dont know about all of that it's preference but I will tell you locally at the buck etc the d-max's are constantly first place pullers and racing at cecil there are a ton of dmaxs in the 11's. But again its all preference not trying to start a cummins vs gm/izuzu.