Any suggestions for beefing up the GM Banjo Front Axle?

[gentrysgarage]

I am on a quest to find information on how I can upgrade the GM Banjo axles in my 1943 Chevrolet COE. I want to keep the truck looking reasonably correct with the waffle iron Banjos.The easiest thing to do is change to the 2.5 Rocks but don't think it would look right. I think our biggest hang up is the spider gear for 1.5" and 10 spline axle (on mine). I know I read on this forum of one guy who blew one up...what failed first the joint, shaft or ball/kingpin (?). I know I could have axles made...but the $$'s make that a no option. As I see it I have a few options:
1) adapt a readily available aftermarket axle
2)adapt 2.5 toploader ends or
3)Reid/Crane c's (would not look correct) and d60 outers
All these options would hinge on finding a spider gear to match the axle....any thoughts?
Thanks

 

[Section8]

Pictures of your axles will help.
Are they like your typical axle or do they have the two centre sections that bolt together? CMP Type rigs have these.
1943?? Not familiar with your rigs history so want to make sure we have the correct axles to discuss. If they are indeed Gm Corp axles are they already a modification?
What exactly are you trying to accomplish with your axles? Are you doing some high horse power /torgue power train mods to your truck?
Are you just looking for better longevity or perhaps better mileage and efficiency?
Don't quote me but I am pretty sure you can't put newer Rockwell axle ends on your axles. The GM Corp axles have a different shaft size. Some one correct me if I am wrong someone.
You may be able to put newer axle shafts in your tubes, with heavy modifications.
Then you run into ring and pinion issues.
Might be best to look for some D70 axles if you are wanting to get better mileage and keep the diffs face loading.
Monster truck/ Mudding forums might be a better source for finding answers. Lots of guys prefer the Gm Corp 2.5 ton axles over Rockwells for mudding or sled pulling.
They would know the limitations and any mods that may help.

 

[gentrysgarage]

HioSection 8
here we go

Pictures of your axles will help.

And for items 2 and 3 something like this:

I hope I posted the right size
As far as the reason, I am repowering with a Cummins 6BTA and want to eventually build an expedition vehicle to take me up the Alaskan highway down to the tip of Argentina when I retire..soo it is a slow build! LOL
But as this is a veteran I want it to look right, and swapping in a dana would make my life sooo easy ( I have a Dana 60 front, 70 rear laying here) they would look puny and wrong on this truck. Picture Arnold (in his prime) with his wife's legs! LOL!!!
Thanks Section 8 for your reply!

 

[quickfarms]

One issue you will run into is the center is the same as the rear. If you change the axle you will also have to a change the transfer case. This is according to my research.

I had toyed with the idea of a diesel conversion but it would require a complete drivetrain swap.

Your easiest route is to find a dodge 1 ton and use the drivetrain.

 

[rchalmers3]

That's what I was thinkin: A body swap onto a modern rollin chassis. It would be so much easier and the chassis will be engineered to work together.

Rick

 

[hendersond]

The goal being that trip, I would place the body on a modern, reliable chassis with reasonable gearing.
The old GM deuce axles are very low geared, leaky knuckle, drum brake antiques. As far as strength goes, we have put them in pulling trucks and I too have seen them in mud boggers with some good HP.
They will work with a regular 3/4 ton NP 205 transmission. Yes, it turns the pinion the wrong way. Pull the axle shafts and flip the carrier in the housing. You have to grind a small notch in the banjo for the ring gear and cut about a half inch off 1 axle spline. I have done it 1 time and seen it done by others. Yes things broke but it was the output on the transmission, the trans/transfer case coupler, twisted driveshafts, clutches, several SM465 transmissions, and many, many universal joints. I think the U joint is the weak link for us.
We never had a failure of the front or rear end. The gearing was soooo low that it seemed to move the weakest point further up the driveline.
I'm with the others on this one, modern chassis and tip the body off. Reliability and MPG

 

[gentrysgarage]

In all honesty you guys are all right. The smart move would be a newer chassis, not only better metallurgy but better chance of replacement parts being sourced. I even thought so far as to look into rockwell 106 front loaders and putting the 2.5 rockwell outers for the steering side.

hendersond I totally enjoyed your recovery/camper thread. Glad to hear the rears have held up for you. Do you think it was the fact the ujoints were old that they broke or that they were undersized for the truck or load.

As far as the front I am planning to run a driver's drop Ford NP205, flip the axle housing to the drivers side, flip the hogshead to correct the rotation, and do the F700 rotor'd disc brakes the 2.5 Rock boys are doing.

I have heard/read that this design became the Eaton H110 and the International RA 30...but nobody has ever finished a write up on the mud boards or Pirate for that matter...I wish that I didn't live in a state that crushes cars to keep people from fixing the old ones. A good old wrecking yard with stuff dating back to the 30's that I could go and verify this for myself would be so helpful. If that is the case I could run 5:14 gears and life would be good. Life would be better if it became the Eaton 110S (current version) then I would have a new center section 27 spline rear axles no problem...front axles would still a problem but a step in the right direction..

Sorry if I am rambling. And Thank You all for your replies!

 

[hendersond]

My trucks are mostly original. I should have clarified, this was on a pulling truck running big engine and bar tires.