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Any suggestions on snapped off brass fitting on brake can?

chucky

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When im dealing with broken hardend bolts/taps i grind the surface flat take a drill index pin or a pointed chisel and punch a good center mark with a decent indention then depending on sise drill a small hole all the way thru and if your bits arnt sharp enough drilling slow with cutting oil i use a good masonary bit to drill hardend bolts when u get full depth drive your spiral easeout in the hole then when your ready to back it out heat the outside flange with a propane torch just a little then it should come on out
 

fasttruck

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Yes, in post #1 you can see the carrier for the caging pin. Definitely think about replacing the whole thing. If you manage to get it apart and back together it will likely leak forever.
 

Reworked LMTV

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Yes, in post #1 you can see the carrier for the caging pin. Definitely think about replacing the whole thing. If you manage to get it apart and back together it will likely leak forever.
So you are saying that even if the diaphragm is replaced it will still leak??
 

Welder1

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Tried to back it out and the tool broke as well.... View attachment 816137
you should be able to TIG weld to the broken tool. I usually use a washer that matches the piece I want to weld to. I then weld a nut to the washer. The heat of welding will help to free up the broken part. With TIG welding you have excellent control of where you are welding. Just my thoughts.


Eddie
 

Reworked LMTV

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you should be able to TIG weld to the broken tool. I usually use a washer that matches the piece I want to weld to. I then weld a nut to the washer. The heat of welding will help to free up the broken part. With TIG welding you have excellent control of where you are welding. Just my thoughts.


Eddie
Hey, now there's a thought!
 

frank8003

In Memorial
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It not much money, after all, it is just brakes on a heavy truck......
That thing is broke. Get a new one.
Hey, I am One that fixed or attempted to repair everything, machine shops, submarines, ships, aircraft.
Learned, hard lessons, like that if it is available then just get a new one, otherwise if item is one of a kind then move heaven and earth to save it for the effort.
Thousands of those things were made, new ones exist for purchase.
Just install a new one and inspect the others for replacement too.
You got the NSN on that junk?, Please post.


FM-230 | Rear Air Brake Chamber FMTV LMTV
$200.00
NSN #:
2530-01-394-8332
Part #:
X24-3276J-10




Fits
LMTV M1078, M1079, M1080 2 ½ Ton Trucks
FMTV M1083, M1084, M1085, M1090, M1092, M1093, M1094 5-Ton Trucks

The whole truck cost us, the government, $250K?
It is like that lady, You must keep her in the style She is accustomed to.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

fasttruck

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Reference posts 23 and 26: If it is leaking you didn't say if it was the service or emergency side of the dual service brake chamber. If it is the emergency side throw it out and get a new one. You don't want to mess with the spring therein. On the service side, yes you can replace the diaphragm, but is whatever caused the first one to leak going to rupture the new diaphragm ? like post 26 suggests it is usually simpler to replace in kind rather than try to repair a rusty or deformed brake chamber that will likely continue to leak. Pic attached of a cutaway brake chamber so you can visualize the spring used.
 

fasttruck

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The spring. Also is attached a pic of a dual service brake chamber damaged by rust. Dome of chamber on the emergency side is cracking. Even though the individual parts are available to service this unit it was deemed prudent to discard it before the spring inside blasts out and as a minimum created an air leak of enough magnitude to dump the emergency brakes on the rest of the truck and there you sit.
 

Attachments

fasttruck

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Also he pic in post 1 indicates that the caging pin assembly is not present. You have one for each dual service brake chamber right ?
 
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