Anybody else feel this way?

[Milsurp]

It's been eight years since I bought my 1954 M37. The fella who had it before me had changed it from the 24 volt, to a 12 volt system.

Obviously, none of my gauges work now. How I wish the guy would have left it alone.

Gentlemen, what are your thoughts on the 24 volt system, versus a 6 volt system, versus a 12 volt system?

 

[clinto]

I like whatever is correct for the vehicle.

That way, I know an engineer, who is more knowledgeable than me designed it......................... and he designed it in a way that the legal dept. signed off on!

I like a nice stock system that I can troubleshoot using the factory manuals and schematics.

So I like the 24V system in my deuce and I like the 6V system in the vehicles it's supposed to be in.



*All the above doesn't take into account the lower amperage in 24V systems vs. 12V.

 

[Flyingvan911]

I agree with Clinto. Why change it. If it doesn't work just fix it.

 

[3dAngus]

It is what it is. Just make the best of whatever you have.
Mine is 12v.
Worse part of it is the oil rushing up to the instrument panel. Fixed it three times and it still leaks. I'm in the market for a 12v electrical sensor and gauge. I would never consider going to a 24v system at this point, and the 6v systems always suck.

 

[emmado22]

I have a 1945 Willys MB and 1954 CJ3B. Both were originally 6 Volt. I was doing a full resto of both (not at the same time) removing the "bubba mod'ed electrical stuff", and needed to replace the wiring harnesses with a Vintage Wiring of Maine harness, as the originals were shot. I converted both to 12 volt, but I got a "looks exactly the same except for the part # stamped on the Autolite dataplate" 12v generator & starter (all bought on ebay advertised as non working, I brought them to my local auto electrical shop and $100 later per set were fully rebuilt with warrantee), got a repro battery that externally LOOKS exactly like a period correct 6 volt, but inside it is a 12 volt Optima battery, and 12 Volt "correct looking" gauges and fuel sender. Other than reading the part #'s on the dataplates on the starter/genny or putting a meter on it, you'd never know it was 12V instead of the 6V it should be. Kill the battery by driving slow in a parade or leave your lights on? Any modern vehicle out there can give you a jump. Not so much if your a 6 volt guy living in a 12 volt world. I carry jumper cables in an ammo crate in the WWII trailer the MB pulls for such an occasion. My M998 HMMWV and M35A2C are 24V and will stay that way. I see no reason to convert them. If someone converts 6 to 12 or 24 to 12 or whatever and does it the right way cosmetically and electrcially, you should have to look REALLY close to figure out it is a different voltage. This is all assuming that you want to do it "period correct".

 

[1943ht]

These electrical systems (6, 12, 24) were designed more with the known technology and automotive manufacturing at the time with the intent of accessory support in the background. By accessories, I'm talking radios and communication gear here. WWII stuff was both 6 and 12 volt with the radios bring converted to 110 volts via dynomometers (SP) .. it was successful but limited based on the days technology. My original Half-track transmitters and receivers with 78 crystals are in working condition but much more complicated with their vacuum tubes and high voltage technology. Military went with the 24 volt system for power for the then new technology of transistors etc and is still using the same today with the SINGAR's and newer systems because of the robustness of 24 volt systems in both US and NATO equipment which is a deciding factor in our equipment design (Compatibility / Interchangeability).. I myself have kept all of my vehicles in their original voltage conversion, because as mentioned by others on this thread, I can use the manuals and testing profiles for trouble shooting .. I guess it boils down to personal preference, availability of parts and dollars.