Anybody know where to get lift shackles?

[wisconsin93]

I want lo lift my truck but I don't want to get rid of the overweight springs that are in it unless I have to. does anybody know of a longer shackle to mount the current springs in the back to? I'm not terribly worried about putting different springs in the front but if the need to drop a load in the bed arises I don't want to be out of luck with tall springs that have no load capacity

 

[doghead]

Use lift blocks in the rear.

 

[FMJ]

Use lift blocks in the rear.

What he said. . .

 

[Cucvnut]

Shackles should only go on the rear of the front springs. use blocks in the rear or a shackle flip.

 

[FMJ]

shackle flip won't work as the stops for the overload springs are on the frame, flame on if I'm wrong. . . . .

 

[Warthog]

Would be nice to know what type of vehicle you are talking about lifting.

 

[wisconsin93]

k30. so whichever "Msomething" that is. i can just go pick up a set of 5 and 6 inch blocks to put between the springs and the axles and it shouldn't affect the load rating very much?

 

[jw4x4]

The max for blocks is generally 4 inches. Any more than that and you are asking for big problems. Puts too much leverage on the u-bolts and center pins. Blocks will not affect the load rating, but one MUST remember that the center of gravity will be substantially higher and said vehicle must be operated accordingly.

 

[wisconsin93]

So springs for the front that give 6 inches and 4 inch blocks in the back to level it would be good? I'm really trying to figure out whats best because i haven't found any springs rated for 3000lbs yet that lift So i would prefer to keep my own that are already on the back

 

[Recovry4x4]

So springs for the front that give 6 inches and 4 inch blocks in the back to level it would be good? I'm really trying to figure out whats best because i haven't found any springs rated for 3000lbs yet that lift So i would prefer to keep my own that are already on the back

That would work if that is your preference. I don't like the saggy backisde look myself but many do. I do share your thoughts on having the factory springs rated to carry a specific load. My trucks still have to earn their keep from time to time.

 

[wisconsin93]

What else does that do for the driveshaft? I assume that I would need a new one, but what would i do to adjust for the sharper angle of the driveshaft coming out of the tail housing of the transfer case?

 

[doghead]

How much lift do you think you need? What size tires will you run? How do you plan to use your truck?

Do you have tools and a workplace? Experience, budget?

Did you read any of the lift threads in the forums?

 

[wisconsin93]

Ideally I would like 6 in the back and 7 in the front. i have a set of 32s for it just waiting to fit under the thing. They're load rated because it does haul stuff. Hence the reason I'm intent on keeping my heavy rear springs. Money time and tools are no issue and I haven't seen anything on here about how guys compensate for the angle change of the drive shaft. Then again, I haven't read all of the forums yet either

 

[richingalveston]

32s will fit on stock suspension, I ran 33s on my 1009 with no lift and never had any rubbing. put the 32's on there and then see if you need any lift. If your axles are not centered in the wheel wells then get some one inch zero rates and recenter them. You should be able to do this with out changing the driveshafts.
read the lift threads on this forum.
if you plan on using the truck to the point of needing the heavy springs, you should do the minimum on lift.

 

[wayne pick]

Extreme lifts and heavy loads are not a good combination. The higher center of gravity will result in bad handling. Tall lift blocks increase pinion angle, cause axle rap up and do a number on the rear springs and u joints. A shackle flip is the best way to go. It actually corrects pinion angle and does not compromise handling. The overload spring can be retained by putting a higher block on top of the spring pac so the spring will still make contact with the frame pads.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Driveshaft angles is an area often ignored by the lift kit crowd. Many feel that tilting the pinion up towards the transfer case corrects the angle but in fact hurts it unless you use constant velocty
joints. With conventional joints the angle at both joints should be the same to cancel harmonics.

 

[FMJ]

Driveshaft angles is an area often ignored by the lift kit crowd. Many feel that tilting the pinion up towards the transfer case corrects the angle but in fact hurts it unless you use constant velocty
joints. With conventional joints the angle at both joints should be the same to cancel harmonics.

Kenny is right on the money, the angle of the pinion needs to be as close to the angle of the transmission output as possible otherwise you will get vibrations at different places as rpm of the driveshaft increases. My 1009 has 33's with 4 inch lift blocks so my driveshaft angle is pretty severe, and since a CV drive shaft from high angle drivelines is out of my price range (500.00) I matched angles as close as I could, and I make sure to grease the U joints frequently, if you don't, the joints wont last, even if they are quality joints like spicer. . . .

 

[wayne pick]

Harmonics? The whole truck is harmonic! LOL.

 

[Recovry4x4]

These harmonics destroy ujoints just like a bad balancer hurts crank life.

 

[wayne pick]

So does extreme driveshaft angles that cause premature spline and seal failure. Ok for a trailered mud truck. Problematic and unreliable on the road no matter how much it's greased. Even more so with the loads the OP plans to haul with it.