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Anyone commit sacrilege and weld 16.5 inch rims to convert to 17 inch rims?

frauhansen

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All true... and personally I have done a lot of wheel modifications, too. But I do laser-cutting /welding /grinding on the lathe, in a way that you couldn't tell where the joint is. (And the finished product has zero runout, unlike what comes from factory...)

What you have in mind goes a bit further than just "lip-reinforcing"...
Have you actually measured a 17" rim? I guess, not. The OA diameter is a tad over 18.5", while the HMMWV rim measures 17-7/16". So a 1/4" rod all around won't do it, obviously. Then you seem to forget the fact that the 17" is a 5deg shoulder rim, while the 16.5 has 15⁰. How would you address that? Fill up with bondo - I hope not...!?

Here are both, face-to-face, for comparison:
View attachment 804973 View attachment 804974

Building a (safe!) 17" bolt-together wheel (that could hardly be distinguished from a stock HMMWV wheel, once mounted) is possible and not so difficult. But as I said above, you need to have the 17" rims to serve as donors for the bead sections. And then it's only a matter of cut & (MIG)weld-together.

I'm on the wrong side of the world and too far away to offer the final product or even a prototype, but I could gladly assist you with some to-scale drawings, if it came that far.
There is hardly anything left to add here. Except for the following... it will need machine support that goes beyond a simple MIG. A lathe of appropriate size is the minimum. And also quite a decent knowledge of welding.
Personally, I've been welding for a long time and I don't think I'm stupid or scared. But I would not describe my work as safe. Especially not without having x-rayed the seams.

The hint with the donor 17" rim is important, because I think a manually applied piece of sheet metal to bridge the distance here completely misses the point.
 

T9000

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I have been searching to buy/ make/ modify a similar wheel (I like the 24 bolt OEM look and the runflat) but with a standard diameter that would have more tire options. In the process I ran into this truck, which it looks like it has 20" wheels with the OEM look:

IMG_5238.jpeg

I contacted the guy asking who made those wheels, he said that's how he bought the truck.
Do you guys know what donor wheel was used? I found some agricultural wheels in UK that come close :)
 

TOBASH

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I have been searching to buy/ make/ modify a similar wheel (I like the 24 bolt OEM look and the runflat) but with a standard diameter that would have more tire options. In the process I ran into this truck, which it looks like it has 20" wheels with the OEM look:

View attachment 907933

I contacted the guy asking who made those wheels, he said that's how he bought the truck.
Do you guys know what donor wheel was used? I found some agricultural wheels in UK that come close :)
Those rims stick out well beyond the body. The fender flairs hide the fact that those rims will kill your spindles and spindle bearings.
 

T9000

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Those rims stick out well beyond the body. The fender flairs hide the fact that those rims will kill your spindles and spindle bearings.
Oh yeah, that offset is too much, I personally don't care about the "skateboard" look (and like you are saying, it's not good for the spindles), but it shows what work others have done in this area trying to relatively maintain the wheel OEM look.
 

T9000

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I admit it...these trucks are like those crazy horny girlfriends...the hotter they look...the more issues they have ...that's why it's so addictive...and irresistible...
Sure, those tires are going to rip your spindles off, but man...did that feel / look amazing hehehe
Get another set, let's commit the "sacrilege" again 😆
 

frauhansen

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Those rims stick out well beyond the body. The fender flairs hide the fact that those rims will kill your spindles and spindle bearings.
This does not have to have its cause in the rim. It can also be caused by distance plates (dont knw how you call it in the states).

Only as a supplement to my very negative attitude before.
You can very well build rims or have them built. But this needs special machines and knowledge. This is definitely not something I do with a "just bought" MAG in the backyard.
 

cole6700

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Thanks for that information. Iam also interested in 17 inch on stock looking HMMWV rims. I reached out to Trail worthy fab to see what they offer whether done or components, I will report back for others interested as well.
Here’s my outside of the box solution for stock ish looking 17 inch rims.

 

Vapor Trail

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Here’s my outside of the box solution for stock ish looking 17 inch rims.

Hey Cole, what kind of lug nuts are you using there?
 

msgjd

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I figure welding a 1/4 inch rod all around might be the ticket, but I wanted to see if anyone else had done it?
If you are off-road-only , low-pressure tires, and no general public anywhere near your vehicle, I don't see a problem if you have time and patience .. I have welded a ring of 5/8 re-bar around calcium/chloride-compromised (rusting) beads of rear farm tractor rims for decades with no issues, and gladly replaced the chloride with non-corrosive liquids.. Welding is with tire off and basically is a "new" sandblasted/painted rim with stronger-than-original beads when I am done with it. My tires do not take more than 15-20psi anyway ..

Some ask me "why don't you just buy new rims?" In my case all the tractors are over 50, aftermarket rims used to be affordable but are no longer, and cost of palleted truck freight has always been the spoiler.. The last two factors may or may not affect you
 
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