BlondeGuy
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I've looked into it a little bit, it's pricey in the big sheets and I have some questions regarding the finish on the surfaces. Samples I've seen aren't as smooth as a steel surface and with prices approaching aluminum, it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense. It might be easier to work with (and maybe not). Even in thick sheets, I think there might be more flex than desirable.how about fiberglass
Maddawg might have something he calcualted, but it would be specific to his project. Looking at the available photos, it appears to me that the M37 box armor varied....a lot. First you have the issue of long box vs short box. Then the height seems different on almost every one. Add to that the differences in the way the front and rear panels were treated and you conclude that each one was slightly different (except when talking about the same truck with different names).My Daughter just got her first MV, a m37 and I plan on talking her into making a Gun Truck. I know MadDawg just cut some armor panels, but would anyone know the Dimensions for the metal plates needed?
Really? I would have thought that stuff (in the thickness you'd need) would have been really expensive. As for getting paint to stick, guess you could rough up the surface a bit with sand paper or media blast it.I've looked into Lexan/polycarbonate as well. Prices are actually a little better than the fiberglas, but I'm not sure how it would hold paint. Wouldn't want to do a "transparent" gun box, some things are better left out of sight!opcorn:
I haven't ever seen a photo of a Vietnam M37 GT with a hard top. There have been threads here discussing who is making what. When it comes to short box trucks, there were only a few to begin with and the easy ones have already been done/reserved.
Having been associated with the WW2 Warbird community for many years, my thoughts are a carry over from there. It is not kosher to do a plane that someone else has done. I feel that if someone has gone thru the research, time and expense to do a particular replica that it is a sign of respect to allow them to have it exclusively to themselves. Granted, there are far more bombers and fighters to choose from than 3 dozen or so M37 GTs, but that's my take on it. In doing research for mine, I was told by at least one owner that I could also do a replica of the truck he was doing and he wished me well (added that he hoped mine came out better!). I won't do a truck that someone else has done/is doing and I know many others feel the same way. Others feel that the more the merrier, others seem to think it's ok as long as they aren't in the same area of the country.Find this interesting. Are you saying that if I want to build a copy of "OTTO" for example and there's another guy out there already building a replica of OTTO, I can't build my "OTTO"? Is there a governing body on guntruck building or does to many OTTOs spoil a rally? I'm curious to know, that's all.
Matt
Problem with the frame idea is the thickness. It should be 1/4" or 3/8" anything thicker and the M37 would break. (Sounds like they broke often enough with 3/8"). Composite might be the answer, rigid and lightweight but the cost would be a killer!!WarrenD: Contact cement used for counter tops would be my first step.
You will also find that plywood alone probably will flex too much you will need in my opinion to build an internal frame with 1" angle and fill with ply. I would start by building a simple box frame and adding diagonals to your framing. Welding is not difficult to learn. I would almost bet your daughter can pick it up in 1 hr. My first welder was a wire-feed flux core and was under $100 bucks and would be more than enough to build the framing. There are plenty of body panel glues out now that will bond the sheet metal to the framing and the contact cement will ensure a good overall bonding. Start small and keep us informed if you guys go for it.