-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Artisan's M916
- Thread starter Artisan
- Start date
R Racing
Active member
- 2,767
- 16
- 38
- Location
- St. Leonard, MD
Not a clue. But I will tell you I had 1 lock up on my way to SC a few years back. Pulled into a truck stop. Guy grabbed a brake chamber off the shelf . cut a 1" off the shaft .Bolted it on . adjusted the brakes and away I went.
Hmmm, w/o have 1 of each in hand hard to figure it out.
My limited knowledge suggests one Type 30/30 is the same
for all 4 corners but the TM says DIFFERENTLY.
Alls I see so far is LONG Stroke and "Normal"? Stroke?
I was watching this Utube this AM and this guy points (Go to 4:10 )
out the difference between them, SQUARE vs ROUND air inlet ports,
where SQUARE = LONG Stroke. Maybe they grabbed a long stroke
chamber and whacked 1" off it to make a short stroke?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXyrfzLH80Q
My limited knowledge suggests one Type 30/30 is the same
for all 4 corners but the TM says DIFFERENTLY.
Alls I see so far is LONG Stroke and "Normal"? Stroke?
I was watching this Utube this AM and this guy points (Go to 4:10 )
out the difference between them, SQUARE vs ROUND air inlet ports,
where SQUARE = LONG Stroke. Maybe they grabbed a long stroke
chamber and whacked 1" off it to make a short stroke?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXyrfzLH80Q
R Racing
Active member
- 2,767
- 16
- 38
- Location
- St. Leonard, MD
the video says its disabled??
- 1,964
- 215
- 63
- Location
- Arizona
Long stroke chambers do have the square inlets and short strokes have the round ones. The difference between them is not the length of the threaded rod, but the amount the rod moves. Anytime you have a new chamber, you'll probably have to cut the rod down, they're made long to fit different applications.
What they are saying is to go to UTube.com to see that video.
It is not disabled completely, it just means you can not see it unless
you go to utube.com to see it. Punt...
I just spent a LOT of time trying to get my rear brakes into PERRrrFECT adjustment.
They all have just a RCH (15/16"+/- 1/128"
) under 1" of movement from released to parking brake on,
less if you use just the treadle w/ the little wife standing on it.
There is less than 1" of movement released.
The only way I could get them in spec was to;
Supply front of truck w/ air from shop compressor.
Jack tire off ground.
Adjust Slack Adjuster till shoes touched drum but good, and then barely back off
maybe a 1/4 turn at the MOST till wheel spun free. I proved it. If I went a full
turn or a 1/2 a turn they would not go to spec. With just the smallest
of turns I could make them go from free turning to no-turn while
wheel was jacked off the ground.
My shoes are like new. Tires are Like new.
The rears I had to pull the cotter pins and adjust the yokes way in.
In my opinion they are all as close to perfect as obtainable.
The Double Check / Quick Release valve I spoke of prior was replaced.
It had the TINYEST of leaks out the bottom, I mean it was so minute but that\
CHP could hear it! he was a young buck, sharp as a whip, strong as two bulls.
One more minor issue and I will go back to the CHP Inspector
even though he said I did not have to return, I will still go
back and take my free inspection w/ no ticket so I can leave w/ a
NO FAULTS FOUND condition on my record.
He did not cite me but wrote me for
BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
FRONT DRIVE SHAFT WEAR ( It look like in rebuild they probably replaced
the u-joint but not the slip shaft on the drive shaft and it is a little loose, just
a little!)
No Name or DOT # (But when I said I was not a company there was a HUGE
pause...if I get Historic I can slide on that, I think....)
I was listening to the CHP Inspectors, and treir buddies, they are very
knowledgeable, they look for Scumbags and Scumbag Companies
that sketch on maintenance AND OLD TRUCKS.
I want to be known as an Anti-Scumbag to the local CHP, HA! I will fix any
little thing they want fixed...scared of them I am (In my best Yoda voice)
After seeing the CHP brake inspection I would suggest that it is IMPOSSIBLE
to be in spec for any length of time since pads and drums wear, and that a
guy should probably adjust his brakes every 500 miles or so depending on
usage or you WILL get cited for BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTEMENT.
They all have just a RCH (15/16"+/- 1/128"
) under 1" of movement from released to parking brake on, less if you use just the treadle w/ the little wife standing on it.
There is less than 1" of movement released.
The only way I could get them in spec was to;
Supply front of truck w/ air from shop compressor.
Jack tire off ground.
Adjust Slack Adjuster till shoes touched drum but good, and then barely back off
maybe a 1/4 turn at the MOST till wheel spun free. I proved it. If I went a full
turn or a 1/2 a turn they would not go to spec. With just the smallest
of turns I could make them go from free turning to no-turn while
wheel was jacked off the ground.
My shoes are like new. Tires are Like new.
The rears I had to pull the cotter pins and adjust the yokes way in.
In my opinion they are all as close to perfect as obtainable.
The Double Check / Quick Release valve I spoke of prior was replaced.
It had the TINYEST of leaks out the bottom, I mean it was so minute but that\
CHP could hear it! he was a young buck, sharp as a whip, strong as two bulls.
One more minor issue and I will go back to the CHP Inspector
even though he said I did not have to return, I will still go
back and take my free inspection w/ no ticket so I can leave w/ a
NO FAULTS FOUND condition on my record.
He did not cite me but wrote me for
BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
FRONT DRIVE SHAFT WEAR ( It look like in rebuild they probably replaced
the u-joint but not the slip shaft on the drive shaft and it is a little loose, just
a little!)
No Name or DOT # (But when I said I was not a company there was a HUGE
pause...if I get Historic I can slide on that, I think....)
I was listening to the CHP Inspectors, and treir buddies, they are very
knowledgeable, they look for Scumbags and Scumbag Companies
that sketch on maintenance AND OLD TRUCKS.
I want to be known as an Anti-Scumbag to the local CHP, HA! I will fix any
little thing they want fixed...scared of them I am (In my best Yoda voice)
After seeing the CHP brake inspection I would suggest that it is IMPOSSIBLE
to be in spec for any length of time since pads and drums wear, and that a
guy should probably adjust his brakes every 500 miles or so depending on
usage or you WILL get cited for BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTEMENT.
quickfarms
Well-known member
- 3,495
- 25
- 48
- Location
- Orange Junction, CA
If you are having to adjust your brakes every 500 miles there is something wrong, really wrong.
I am still learning here QF, perhaps the wrong choice of words. Thank U.
Some notes on Greasing;
(IF YOU SEE I FORGOT SOMETHING PLEASE ADVISE!)
ZERT Count Forward of Tranny / Front Axle Area (25 Zerts)
6- Leaf Spring Bracket
2- Steering Hydraulic Cylinder
2- Upper Knuckle
2- Lower Knuckle
2- Cardan Joint
2- Tie rod
2- Drag Link
3- Front Driveshaft Universal front & Back & front slip yoke
3- Steering Shaft (1 in cab)
1- Seat, Center front
A- You have to get both front wheels off the ground prior to lubing upper and lower knuckles.
I tried it w/o lifting then with lifting and the difference is night and day. It accepts
grease and will purge grease way better when wheels are off the ground!
B- With wheels off the ground you must turn the wheels all the way to the right and
spin the wheel till the zert fitting comes to light for the hidden PS Cardan Joint
and all the left for the DS.
C- Turning the lifted wheels w/o engine running can cause Power Steering fluid to puke.
Ask me how I know and how I didn't remember Sir Matt I think it was telling us
this past. I think if you go real slow you might be ok.
ZERT Count Rear (27 Zerts)
3- Tranny to T/C Driveshaft Universal front & Back & slip yoke
3- T/C to front-rear axle Driveshaft Universal front & Back & slip yoke
4- Front-rear axle Slack Adjustors and shafts
4- Rear-rear axle Slack Adjustors and shafts
3- front-rear to rear-rear axle Driveshaft Universal front & Back & slip yoke
2- Walking beam
2- Leaf Spring
4- Pintle Hitch
2- Rear Roller
52 Zerts total w/ Kendall L-427 NLGI-2 Lithium Grease
5th Wheel currently not installed, coming soon.
That's a LOT of work to properly grease one of these puppies!
(IF YOU SEE I FORGOT SOMETHING PLEASE ADVISE!)
ZERT Count Forward of Tranny / Front Axle Area (25 Zerts)
6- Leaf Spring Bracket
2- Steering Hydraulic Cylinder
2- Upper Knuckle
2- Lower Knuckle
2- Cardan Joint
2- Tie rod
2- Drag Link
3- Front Driveshaft Universal front & Back & front slip yoke
3- Steering Shaft (1 in cab)
1- Seat, Center front
A- You have to get both front wheels off the ground prior to lubing upper and lower knuckles.
I tried it w/o lifting then with lifting and the difference is night and day. It accepts
grease and will purge grease way better when wheels are off the ground!
B- With wheels off the ground you must turn the wheels all the way to the right and
spin the wheel till the zert fitting comes to light for the hidden PS Cardan Joint
and all the left for the DS.
C- Turning the lifted wheels w/o engine running can cause Power Steering fluid to puke.
Ask me how I know and how I didn't remember Sir Matt I think it was telling us
this past. I think if you go real slow you might be ok.
ZERT Count Rear (27 Zerts)
3- Tranny to T/C Driveshaft Universal front & Back & slip yoke
3- T/C to front-rear axle Driveshaft Universal front & Back & slip yoke
4- Front-rear axle Slack Adjustors and shafts
4- Rear-rear axle Slack Adjustors and shafts
3- front-rear to rear-rear axle Driveshaft Universal front & Back & slip yoke
2- Walking beam
2- Leaf Spring
4- Pintle Hitch
2- Rear Roller
52 Zerts total w/ Kendall L-427 NLGI-2 Lithium Grease
5th Wheel currently not installed, coming soon.
That's a LOT of work to properly grease one of these puppies!
Last edited:
R Racing
Active member
- 2,767
- 16
- 38
- Location
- St. Leonard, MD
So whats a m920 ? a bigger 20 ton ??
HA! I was contemplating that myself, let me go look.
- 1,964
- 215
- 63
- Location
- Arizona
The 916 got the short end of the stick when it comes to listed GVWR and GCWR.
Observe the following -
I think AM General came up with these GVWR and GCWR combinations based on what the Army wanted in terms of what trailers were to be paired with each truck. The 915 uses the 872, the 916's "correct" trailer is the M172, and the M920 gets the M870. These numbers more or less match with their paired tractor -
M872 GVWR = 86000
M172 GVWR = 76500
M870 GVWR = 96500
The 916 and 920 share the same 58000 lb capacity rear end with the same wheels, tires, etc. In terms of absolute "load it till it breaks" capability, the 920 probably can carry more weight because of the tag axle... Then again, the frame on the 916 is shorter and should be a bit stiffer. The TM says not to use the 920 tag axle offroad or during turns. So I think the 916 could take the same 40000+ lbs on the 5th wheel that the 920 can, no reason that it can't also be a 20 ton tractor.
A 920 is just a 916 that weighs another 2700 lbs more and is 2 feet longer. I think a tag axle doesn't make a lot of sense on a tractor where you can't move the 5th wheel. The Freightliner 916A1s, A2, & A3s all got 68000 lb GVWRs and 130000 lb GCWRs.
In terms of overweight permits, in states like Arizona where only the axle spacing matters and the number of axles isn't taken into account, the 916 can haul more than the 920 for the most part because it weighs less than what the additional spread gains the 920. It probably all comes down to the military not having to play by the same rules we do.
Observe the following -
| Truck | GVWR | GCWR | Curb Weight | 5th Wheel | Max Towed |
| M915 | 55000 | 105000 | 19630 | 35370 | 85370 |
| M916 | 56000 | 106000 | 27500 | 28500 | 78500 |
| M920 | 75000 | 130000 | 30270 | 44730 | 99730 |
I think AM General came up with these GVWR and GCWR combinations based on what the Army wanted in terms of what trailers were to be paired with each truck. The 915 uses the 872, the 916's "correct" trailer is the M172, and the M920 gets the M870. These numbers more or less match with their paired tractor -
M872 GVWR = 86000
M172 GVWR = 76500
M870 GVWR = 96500
The 916 and 920 share the same 58000 lb capacity rear end with the same wheels, tires, etc. In terms of absolute "load it till it breaks" capability, the 920 probably can carry more weight because of the tag axle... Then again, the frame on the 916 is shorter and should be a bit stiffer. The TM says not to use the 920 tag axle offroad or during turns. So I think the 916 could take the same 40000+ lbs on the 5th wheel that the 920 can, no reason that it can't also be a 20 ton tractor.
A 920 is just a 916 that weighs another 2700 lbs more and is 2 feet longer. I think a tag axle doesn't make a lot of sense on a tractor where you can't move the 5th wheel. The Freightliner 916A1s, A2, & A3s all got 68000 lb GVWRs and 130000 lb GCWRs.
In terms of overweight permits, in states like Arizona where only the axle spacing matters and the number of axles isn't taken into account, the 916 can haul more than the 920 for the most part because it weighs less than what the additional spread gains the 920. It probably all comes down to the military not having to play by the same rules we do.
Last edited:
I started to get a block heater and after I D/L'd the phillipsandtemro.com poop
I am confused. Is there a large hose you connect to this thing too?
I am confused. Is there a large hose you connect to this thing too?
R Racing
Active member
- 2,767
- 16
- 38
- Location
- St. Leonard, MD
Everything I saw there was block heaters. You can get a small 1 and modify 1 of you block off plates to mount it to. Someone on here just did 1 I'll see if I can find it.
It was the first day for me in the dirt w/ the M916 today. I had not tested
the front axle so I set myself up so if it did not work I would
not be stuck and started testing and IT DID NOT WORK.
After dinkin' around w/ things and listening and feeling the T/C it
finally dawned on me why it was not working! During reset
they PLUMBED THE ACTUATOR AIR LINES BACKWARDS, Arggh!
So when ENAGGED it was actually DISENGAGED.
I had read the TM and I knew the InterLock switch was supposed
to be in the center and it always was so I was NOT driving the
truck in 6x6 on the road.
Once I figured out what was going on I was able to see what it
would do and I was VERY Impressed w/ that monster's capabilities,
VERY Impressed.
http://youtu.be/599GOYCMenE
http://youtu.be/I6fpNiFQvE0
the front axle so I set myself up so if it did not work I would
not be stuck and started testing and IT DID NOT WORK.
After dinkin' around w/ things and listening and feeling the T/C it
finally dawned on me why it was not working! During reset
they PLUMBED THE ACTUATOR AIR LINES BACKWARDS, Arggh!
So when ENAGGED it was actually DISENGAGED.
I had read the TM and I knew the InterLock switch was supposed
to be in the center and it always was so I was NOT driving the
truck in 6x6 on the road.
Once I figured out what was going on I was able to see what it
would do and I was VERY Impressed w/ that monster's capabilities,
VERY Impressed.
http://youtu.be/599GOYCMenE
http://youtu.be/I6fpNiFQvE0
Last edited: