• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Artisan's M916

Jerry L

New member
11
4
3
Location
Chico, Ca
If you use a 24v ac unit then you are fine. They are 140amp units on 24v.

If you are using a 12v interior unit and compressor then you are going to have issues. They are only 50amp on the 12v side.

The alternator also only puts out at 1100rpms and higher on 12v

Running into this issue with the 915A4s as the truck pulls 47amps with everything on on 12v side with only a 50amp alternator it kills em. Especially at idle.

All my trucks get a 24v 110amp alternator and Eaton Surepower 24v to 12v equalizer.
Ok, I have not recieved the A/C unit yet but it is a military red dot unit built for the 7 ton mk23. Hopefully it will work with a little adjustments.
 

Jerry L

New member
11
4
3
Location
Chico, Ca
If you use a 24v ac unit then you are fine. They are 140amp units on 24v.

If you are using a 12v interior unit and compressor then you are going to have issues. They are only 50amp on the 12v side.

The alternator also only puts out at 1100rpms and higher on 12v

Running into this issue with the 915A4s as the truck pulls 47amps with everything on on 12v side with only a 50amp alternator it kills em. Especially at idle.

All my trucks get a 24v 110amp alternator and Eaton Surepower 24v to 12v equalizer.
 
Last edited:

Jerry L

New member
11
4
3
Location
Chico, Ca
If you use a 24v ac unit then you are fine. They are 140amp units on 24v.

If you are using a 12v interior unit and compressor then you are going to have issues. They are only 50amp on the 12v side.

The alternator also only puts out at 1100rpms and higher on 12v

Running into this issue with the 915A4s as the truck pulls 47amps with everything on on 12v side with only a 50amp alternator it kills em. Especially at idle.

All my trucks get a 24v 110amp alternator and Eaton Surepower 24v to 12v equalizer.
If you use a 24v ac unit then you are fine. They are 140amp units on 24v.

If you are using a 12v interior unit and compressor then you are going to have issues. They are only 50amp on the 12v side.

The alternator also only puts out at 1100rpms and higher on 12v

Running into this issue with the 915A4s as the truck pulls 47amps with everything on on 12v side with only a 50amp alternator it kills em. Especially at idle.

All my trucks get a 24v 110amp alternator and Eaton Surepower 24v to 12v equalizer.
Thank you,
 

Hughescattle

New member
4
1
3
Location
Oklahoma
M915 m916 upgraded alternator kits 400 cummins


I FOUND THE HOLY GRAIL OF M915/M916/ to M920 ALTERNATOR / GENERATOR / REGULATOR Kits!


...AND I HAVE 2 COMPLETE* KITS TO SELL.

Some time ago in this thread there was talk of getting enough power
to run a 24V Air Conditioner and how to do it. There was never a
really good way to do it, well, I kept at it and I eluded to what
that system was some time ago in this thread. I kept my mouth
shut because I didn't want the world searching for a system I
found that was DESIGNED specifically for the M915 Series of trucks
w/ the 400 Big Cam. (theoretically this should work for any 400 Big Cam).


The following came form VERY reliable sources, VERY.

In Desert Storm they up fit these trucks w/ armor, it was too hot
so the DOD gave Red Dot 6 weeks to make an A/C kit. Well, as
I understand it, they assumed there was enough 24V power to
push this set up and there was NOT! So many trucks BURNED.
Literally burned to the ground. Ask SS member NDT about this.

They figured out the stock alternator was not putting out enough
Amps on the 24V side of things so the DOD gave their contractor 6 weeks
to come up w/ a resolve. That resolve is a Bigger Alternator and a way
Different Regulator w/ LED Diagnostic lights and a bracket for the
regulator and some small parts to make it all work. It is a kit
that you can NOT buy ANYWHERE...till now ;-) And I only have 2 to sell.
I looked high and low for the kit for MONTHS, or just the alternator
and just the regulator, months I looked because I can not afford just
south of $4000.00 for new parts.

The kits are no longer made. You can buy the Alternator and Regulator
from a retailer, get out your wallet, about $3400.00 plus ride but
still you do not have the bracket for the regulator or the instructions.
You do NOT just remove the old Alt and add a new Alt and reg. There is
a minor wire job required as well to make it work.

So I finally had found the LAST KIT known to man about a year ago or
so and we negotiated a price of $1500.00 + ride from Florida, for
just the Alt and regulator, no bracket, no instructions which you HAVE
to have and no smalls.

I asked for pictures to make sure of things and 2 days later they wrote me
and told me it was damaged. My heart broke. We assume some rummy DROPPED
it. I asked for detailed pictures and I surmised that I could repair the unit.
So we renegotiated a price and I got the two parts, just the regulator
and Alternator, and I was able to fix it after months of
research and waiting for parts. It is installed and works perfectly
today.

Still there was no regulator bracket, I HAVE THOSE FOR SALE ALONE.
I designed one from the original plans and made it perfect, AutoCAD
and waterjet cut they are.

I have two new bolt in FACTORY Upgrade M915/M916 TO M920 / 400 Cummins Alt Kits FOR SALE,
the regulator brackets are not mine, they are ORIGINAL too, for sale
here first to SS folks following this thread.

Please do not ask for a deal, friend or not.
I can't do it.
Generous Offers Considered.

Here is what I have PLUS the small parts! I can't believe I have these!

You get the Alternator, Regulator w/ LED Diagnostic lights, Regulator Bracket,
wire, smalls, instructions, it is a complete KIT! Here is the kit installed
on my truck.

View attachment 566600
*I have not inventoried the kits I have yet. I opened one
and was floored when I saw all the tiny parts and instructions + but I think I
figured out a guy needs to make a short feed wire to distribute
the power properly. If you look at my install you see a, I think
it is a #4 red wire that splits to the 2 smaller red feed wires for
the truck, you will need to make that unless I find it in the kits.
Hi Artisan! Do you still have one of these kits available?

Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Kickin

New member
25
22
3
Location
California, MO
I am looking for the Motor Mounts for the M920 truck. TMs state they are CB1009-9, which I cannot find at all, and CBA28-800. Do you know of anyone that has these "grommets" or can make them?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,385
113
Location
Mason, TN
I am looking for the Motor Mounts for the M920 truck. TMs state they are CB1009-9, which I cannot find at all, and CBA28-800. Do you know of anyone that has these "grommets" or can make them?
I use hockey pucks and drill a hole in them. Get a longer bolt and use them on both top and bottom sides with flat washers as big as the puck
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,539
2,758
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
And, CCC, (Crane Carrier Corp), is now Battle Motors. You MIGHT be able to go to their website and put your VIN in and get a P/N or give them a call and get help.

Another place we used to get parts from when re powering CCC things,



Funny, well not so funny, story. The City of Pasadena, Ca. had a fleet of CCC garbage trucks half diesel, the M11 series engine in STC and natural gas. Radiator in back of the cab, low floor, but mid engine. Yes, mid engine, under the trash body. CCC in their infinite wisdom, decided to make the trash bed NOT lift. To do anything but a water pump meant removing the engine. Got a miss, take the engine out. Cam goes away, heas gasket putting coolant in the oil, gear cover leaking oil, rear main leaks, anything. The engine comes out. The trans needs to come out with the engine because there is no room to slide it out.

That was diesel powered

Now take natural gas engines. The 10L nag gas filed Cummins LOVED to burn valves and hole pistons. Also, keep in mind plugs/coils need changing constantly. CCC did put an access cover in the bottom of the trash body, but, natural gas fired engines fail when working and usually don't like to operate if anything is wrong with them, not to mention, it's usually a valve issue. They would die while on route, with a full load of nasty garbage in them. How does one get to the plugs or troubleshoot the engine when it's UNDER 10 tons of garbage?

CCC, good stuff there!

Sorry, WAY off topic!
 
Last edited:

Kickin

New member
25
22
3
Location
California, MO
I am just an Owner/Operator too! Bought this truck to start a business and trying to keep the truck going. Converted from the M920 to a dump truck. Had to upgrade the tires from the 1990s to current to keep rolling down the road, and keeping the tread on the sidewalls. This truck was upgraded at Red River to hold the Allison 7 speed. Now running Bridgestone 12R24s and hopefully get rid of the vibrations with the shot Motor Mounts! THANKS again for all the help! I REALLY APPRECIATE the HELP!!!!
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,385
113
Location
Mason, TN
I am just an Owner/Operator too! Bought this truck to start a business and trying to keep the truck going. Converted from the M920 to a dump truck. Had to upgrade the tires from the 1990s to current to keep rolling down the road, and keeping the tread on the sidewalls. This truck was upgraded at Red River to hold the Allison 7 speed. Now running Bridgestone 12R24s and hopefully get rid of the vibrations with the shot Motor Mounts! THANKS again for all the help! I REALLY APPRECIATE the HELP!!!!
Those 920s with the 7spds weren't all that common. If you move the transfer case back and install a longer jackshaft the vibration goes away

It's been done to the 916s lots of times cause they break that little CV joint they use from the transmission to the transfer case

 

Kickin

New member
25
22
3
Location
California, MO
Apparently, my eyesight is not good .... The CV joint on my truck is no where near little, and my vibration has started 3 years after owning this truck. I will try the mounts first, and then the major mod if this does not fix the issue. I am running this truck as a commercial vehicle, and have to worry about DOT!

I did find that in the Technical Manuals for this truck (TM 9-2320-273-24P) , call for the LORD mount of CB1009-9. Could not find anything on-line or at the surplus websites. Talking with AM General, the FSCM number is the same thing as the Cage Code. When you look up Cage Code and the numerical number following it, the manufacturer of that part number is known. AM General cannot give out data or dimensions on any part to civilians, even on obsolete parts. Talked with LORD, numerous times, and they do not have the data on this mount. They are calling it an obsolete part. LORD finally came up with a substitute of CB-1125-12. This is CB1125-12, per the Military, with a NSN of 5325-01-086-3949, which is the Part Number for the M915A1 mid mounts. These are still available, and this is for anyone's information.

I agree wit WillWagner, LORD was not willing to help much, and wanted me to provide the measurements, to them, for the CB1009-9, which should be in THEIR data sheets.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks