DUUANE
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My Canadian '53 M135 landed in the yard today..a lil rough..but thats the way i like 'em..
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As promised...
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DUUANE
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Some more
Hear the 5 year old kid in me roar...waited 42 years for this one
I'm the second civillian owner.
Hear the 5 year old kid in me roar...waited 42 years for this one
I'm the second civillian owner.
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SturmTyger380
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She's not so bad. I have seen much worse. You will have fun. Now we need to here her running! Alan
DUUANE
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Thanks for the encouragement. The engine is currently stuck..but i have a feeling that its probably just humidity that locked the rings..i have a special trick up my sleeve for that. If it roasted a head gasket or the evhaust filled up with water thats another story..there isnt any evidence of water in the sump so im hopefull.
In any case this truck will be getting a repower and a brake system split at the least. Im working on a setup that does away with the air pak. Replaces the origional brake pedal and master with a full air foot valve that controlls 2 separate air actauted master cylinders. All current off the shelf heavy truck items for cost and availabillity.
The stock 302 will get a rebuild and go under the hood of my brothers 1969 chevy K20. It came stock with a 250 which is absolutely terrible. Pretty much powered out in every gear..
If i win getting the 302 freed up ill post up what i did ..i succeeded with the buda lo525 in my federal f-55-af..it was stuck solid and runs beautifully now..no smoke..1 and a half turns on the starter and it is already running.
In any case this truck will be getting a repower and a brake system split at the least. Im working on a setup that does away with the air pak. Replaces the origional brake pedal and master with a full air foot valve that controlls 2 separate air actauted master cylinders. All current off the shelf heavy truck items for cost and availabillity.
The stock 302 will get a rebuild and go under the hood of my brothers 1969 chevy K20. It came stock with a 250 which is absolutely terrible. Pretty much powered out in every gear..
If i win getting the 302 freed up ill post up what i did ..i succeeded with the buda lo525 in my federal f-55-af..it was stuck solid and runs beautifully now..no smoke..1 and a half turns on the starter and it is already running.
dmetalmiki
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Nice pictures Great looking truck, and deserves the modifications and attentions you are planning for it.
DUUANE
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Thanks dmetalmiki...that jeep with the flathead v8 must be a fun ride.. when i first started dating my wife i asked her what kind of a hot rod she wanted..she said "i'd like a jeep.." i said ok what colour? ..thinking she wanted something new..heated seats , power windows and such.. she turns to me and says " Green..one like your army stuff..an old one."
Right then i knew she was the one.
Right then i knew she was the one.
oboyjohn
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Duuane, you have a really nice deuce to tinker with. Good luck getting the motor unfrozen. And above all, your wife is a keeper!
Cheers!
Cheers!
DUUANE
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Thanks..im waiting for some shipping to happen, then ill be able to get on with the engine operations.
I dont know what the site rules are for product demo's ..im not affilliated with or selling their product..but ive been restoring and building all kinds of vehicles and equipment for coming up on 30 years..rust and frozen parts are one of the most common hurdles to overcome. With the economic pressures of real estate becoming a speculation commodity people cant afford to stockpile parts and equipment so cores and parts will only become harder to get..in any condition or at any price. The product ive been using seems to work well on highly machined surfaces for rust as well as removing carbon.
I recently got a bore-o-scope that has a USB interface for my phone ( thank you to my wife) so ill be able to do before and after with the cylinder head on.
I dont know what the site rules are for product demo's ..im not affilliated with or selling their product..but ive been restoring and building all kinds of vehicles and equipment for coming up on 30 years..rust and frozen parts are one of the most common hurdles to overcome. With the economic pressures of real estate becoming a speculation commodity people cant afford to stockpile parts and equipment so cores and parts will only become harder to get..in any condition or at any price. The product ive been using seems to work well on highly machined surfaces for rust as well as removing carbon.
I recently got a bore-o-scope that has a USB interface for my phone ( thank you to my wife) so ill be able to do before and after with the cylinder head on.
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nattieleather
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I am interested in your brake modification ideas. Please post up when you get to that stage and show us what you did and what parts you used. The brakes on the GMC M series trucks are good brakes. If you get them working right you can stop on a dime and give 8 cents change. But eliminating the air pack sounds very interesting.
DUUANE
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For situations where the rings have stuck to the cylinders from humidity..and/or the red fuzz has grown in the cylinders..i have used with great sucess in the past a product called "safest rust remover" take the plugs out..fill up the cylinders..put the plugs back in..wait 24 hours..remove plugs..drain the product from the oilpan..rotate the engine to the tight spot..back it up a hair..refill the cylinders and replace plugs..come back in 24 hours..drain, remove plugs..check for rotation..dont turn the engine with the product in the pan to avoid drawing it into the oil pump and bearings.
New plugs,oil and filter..it should work fine..has for me..
Been sitting in a field with the head off for a decade, full of water..probably not so much..decarbonizes nicely too.
Not working for them selling their stuff or any of that..but it has worked really well for me..
New plugs,oil and filter..it should work fine..has for me..
Been sitting in a field with the head off for a decade, full of water..probably not so much..decarbonizes nicely too.
Not working for them selling their stuff or any of that..but it has worked really well for me..
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DUUANE
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I agree with you Nattieleather..the GM dual servo brake system was a great setup.
I am considering a couple of options.
1. A hydromax conversion that retains the stock pedal and does away with the air assist.
2. An air over hydraulic system that uses a dual circuit full air foot valve.
ill be repowering hopefully with a small block v8. I'm going that way for a couple of reasons..first is parts availabillity..second maybe keep a little weight out of the rotating assembly and save 1mpg haha.
The issue i can see coming on the horizon is the compressor. Finding a mount for a big block..easy as pie..a small block..ill probably have to make something..so the hydromax wins there.
Either way ill be shooting for a system max application pressure of roughly 1950psi on the hydraulic side.
I will do my due dilligence and do the calculations to compare the stock 135/211 max apply pressure to be sure.
Hydromax stuff is pricey..good but still spendy..and i feel it would be a lot harder to incorporate any kind of proportioning ..a full air foot valve is easy to regulate and wins hands down there. Front axle limiting for wet roads and slick off the road could be a bonus.
Ill also have to calculate the air pack max application volume so i can keep the the same safety margin as a minimum. I had a look through the TM and the piston diameter and stroke are listed (THANK YOU General Motors!) So when i have some down time ill get down to crunching some numbers.
I'm rushing to beat the snow and get my 74 dodge CT800 back together so i have a better crane over the winter. Getting robbed $850 for a new rad..wasnt a happy moment..but it has to be right. Once its breathing fire again i can relax a bit and get on with the fun stuff.
I am considering a couple of options.
1. A hydromax conversion that retains the stock pedal and does away with the air assist.
2. An air over hydraulic system that uses a dual circuit full air foot valve.
ill be repowering hopefully with a small block v8. I'm going that way for a couple of reasons..first is parts availabillity..second maybe keep a little weight out of the rotating assembly and save 1mpg haha.
The issue i can see coming on the horizon is the compressor. Finding a mount for a big block..easy as pie..a small block..ill probably have to make something..so the hydromax wins there.
Either way ill be shooting for a system max application pressure of roughly 1950psi on the hydraulic side.
I will do my due dilligence and do the calculations to compare the stock 135/211 max apply pressure to be sure.
Hydromax stuff is pricey..good but still spendy..and i feel it would be a lot harder to incorporate any kind of proportioning ..a full air foot valve is easy to regulate and wins hands down there. Front axle limiting for wet roads and slick off the road could be a bonus.
Ill also have to calculate the air pack max application volume so i can keep the the same safety margin as a minimum. I had a look through the TM and the piston diameter and stroke are listed (THANK YOU General Motors!) So when i have some down time ill get down to crunching some numbers.
I'm rushing to beat the snow and get my 74 dodge CT800 back together so i have a better crane over the winter. Getting robbed $850 for a new rad..wasnt a happy moment..but it has to be right. Once its breathing fire again i can relax a bit and get on with the fun stuff.