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Axle breather assembly

Jones

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Problem: Venting axles and gearboxes.
At some point the military came up with a positive pressure system to exclude water from entering axles and gearboxes during fording operations. Effective but complicated and prone to clogging and air leaks; and sometimes a vehicle just doesn't need that level of protection. Plus, if I'm in water deep enough to submerge my transfer case I'm gonna be more worried about stumbling onto a hidden snag or a drop-off in the river bottom than a leaking seal.
Came up with this idea for a simple but effective way to vent drive train and air brake components.
I made a 'birdhouse' out of a piece of box tubing and an angle flange that I bent up out of sheet metal. Holes drilled and tapped into the body accept fittings which connect to similar ones on axles or gearboxes. 3/8" lines and fittings will more than deal with any vacuum momentarily created by submerging a warm axle in cold water. In the case of the baby HEMTT, and later 5 tons and up, I also have the vent side of full air brake cans that need to breathe as brakes are applied and released; thus the two lines per side-- one for each brake can. The single fitting is for the axle itself.
Using the holes drilled through the flange sides, these vent assemblies can be bolted to frame, underside of bed-- any spot high enough to keep them from ending up underwater. The idea is to mount them with the open end down so that rain or splashed water will immediately drain out.
To keep wasps and other nestbuilders from plugging up the works, I put a piece of steel mesh pot-scrubber material in the open end and secured it with a cotter pin. It this clogs up you can just remove the cotter pin, pull out and rinse the 'filter' and reassemble. The idea behind using metal mesh was so that wasps or hornets wouldn't be able to chew their way through it. Fine-mesh (1/8" openings) hardware cloth will do just as well; as long as it's metal and not nylon screen.
 

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cranetruck

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Looks good.
If you separate the axle vents from the air brake vents, you could easily pressurize the axle vent system at some future time when you are looking for something new to do.
:)

The image below shows another methode to make a manifold, block of aluminum or steel, drilled and tapped.
For flexible lines it's hard to beat the push-on type fittings with flare end fittings, used a lot on the 757 and I have used it for new plumbing.
 

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sermis

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I put a piece of steel mesh pot-scrubber material in the open end and secured it with a cotter pin.

Might want to get the copper stuff as most of the steel will rust is it stays damp.
 

Jones

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Good point Steve. Guess I figured what it would see the most was oil vapors but copper would definately be better. Either way they're cheap enough to just replace when rust or corrosion starts to show itself.
Bjorn, The push on type is a slick set-up but I went with the compression fittings on DOT plastic air lines 'cause I had them in stock... and I'm a tight-wad.
 

readyman

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Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
Not wanting to be left out of this plumbers nightmare thread.

The air manifolds are available off the shelf with any thread or number of outputs. I've used one (3 port) on the air filter housing for the brake vent, air compressor and the normal venting air source for the inside manifold under the dash. Then used a (6 port) under the dash with some cheap 'shut off's' so if one of the vent lines get torn off by debris I can shut it down and maintain pressure. Used the DOT quick connect lines too.

As Bjorn said, the mil-spec deepwater fording kit was a good start point. But it could be improved.

I'm still in the middle of the installation...
 

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m-35tom

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it might be noted that the clutch and trans are the same without seperating them as there is no front seal in the trans
 

readyman

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Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
Bill W,
It's a curse opening up an account at McMasterCarr. :?

They have just about everything from the 'diamond pattern rubber floor mat material' to 'air actuated ball valves'.
I was really looking for something like 0-5 psi, but I wanted to get started right away, so again went to McMasterCarr.

Oh Yeah. That 'air actuated ball valve '- normally open, will go on the bottom of the clutch housing. When I apply air(on the dash) to the rest of the deepwater fording system, the valve will close and seal the drain hole. I'll just yell "Prepare to dive!" hit the air and... glug, glug, glug. :driver:
 

devilman96

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Boca Raton, FL
One thing about front axles... If your using solid boots you will blow your boots up like balloons, which is fine... till you turn left or right... and then ya get to install new boots!
 

rmgill

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Decatur, Ga
readyman said:
Bill W,
I was really looking for something like 0-5 psi, but I wanted to get started right away, so again went to McMasterCarr.
Which valve/pn is it?

Oh Yeah. That 'air actuated ball valve '- normally open, will go on the bottom of the clutch housing. When I apply air(on the dash) to the rest of the deepwater fording system, the valve will close and seal the drain hole. I'll just yell "Prepare to dive!" hit the air and... glug, glug, glug. :driver:
Good idea. Very good idea. And you can do it manually if it fails too.

Which PN Here too?
 

readyman

Member
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Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
rmgill,

UPS hasn't showed up with the order yet otherwise I'd show a pic of the valve. And yes, thanks for the idea, having the pipe thread plug around would add that redundancy to seal it up if it fails too. Just don't like to crawl around under the truck, if I don't have to.

Shopping/sourcing this valve around should get a better price.
McMaster-Carr
8168K22 1 Each Bronze Low-profile Air-actuated Valve, 3/4" Npt Female, Normally Open
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.a...rmWkInd=false&dscIds=42718&term=Pipe+Fittings
 

Lax

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Location
Upstate New York
Readyman,
This is all great information. I just PMed you so I hope you get it. So far I have not had good luck PMing some guys. Thanks.
 

sailor2000

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Location
Houston Texas
devilman96 said:
One thing about front axles... If your using solid boots you will blow your boots up like balloons, which is fine... till you turn left or right... and then ya get to install new boots!
Solid boots versus what kind????
 
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