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Axle cork & Hub flip

Jake0147

Member
782
18
18
Location
Panton, VT
wilco said:
...Can you use locktight gasket eliminater in place of the small cork piece...
No, good name but the wrong stuff. I suspect that the above solution with silicone gasket makers will be OK, but prep and careful application would be required. Locktite does offer some of these in their brand, but gasket eliminator (515, 518, 548) is an inappropriate product for this purpose. Gasket eliminator would be just fine and very appropriate to seal the axle flange to the hub when you bolt that back on, but silicone gasket maker is quite acceptable here as well.
 

FormerNewMVGuy

Active member
1,237
10
38
Location
stockton NJ
RE: Re: Axle cork & Hub flip

Well you can buy a whole sheet of rubberized cork from Mcmaster=carr for 13 dollars and that is enough to make about a thousand inserts. I know thats what i did and i have no worries about leaks.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
RE: Re: Axle cork & Hub flip

Older model chevy 350 valve cover gaskets work great also. That being said, the last set I did got silicone instead of the cork.
 

OPCOM

Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,657
27
48
Location
Dallas, Texas
I've always used cork along with some silicon slathered on it. To use silicon alone, the axle housing must be extremely clean. Found out the hard way.
 

kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA
It looks like I need to get in the the rear axle to replace the outer oil seal or repair/ replace the cork plug. I've done some searching for a size of the socket to remove the axle nut. I've gome up with a 3" socket. Is this correct?

If not what is the correct size?
 

kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA
Well I finally got around to checking that leaking seal after that wheel started making some noise the other day.

I looks like a newbie in the motor pool worked on it before it hit GL. I found that the brake shoe retainer bolts had worked loose and were allowing the leading shoe to pull away from the backing plate and wedge itself up against the drum and binding up. It also made for long pedal travel since the leading shoe wasn't sitting on the adjuster cam.

I also found that the axle nut wasn't tightened down enough and was allowing the inner race to spin on the spindle plus the outer seal had been bent outward when that mech was trying to remove the seal and no amount of cork was going to stop the leak.


I had a cork valve cover gasket sitting around so I used that for the wedge and replaced the outer seal and repacked the bearings. I also used some loctite bearing retainer to hold the inner race in place plus I tightened the locking nuts some more.
 

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kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,474
23
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
Does anyone have a picture of where these cork gaskets go or what they look like? Doing my rear hubs now and have seen no cork anywhere. Maybe this is adding to my leak?

Thank you
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,474
23
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
You know after reading a bunch of threds and thinking more about this it hit me, maybe my seals aren't bad but someone neve put the cork in the keyway? I read in one thred that the rear seal is a greese only seal and when oil mixes with the bearing greese it will wash past the rear seal. It also stated that this happens when oil leaks past the key way cork. Funny thing is that the seals that are on there are new and shinny still and I didn't see anything in the key way. Could I be onto something or is it wishful thinking?

And thank you for the post DieselBob, very helpful.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,474
23
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
First stop tomorrow is the home store for a 3" pvc coupler to make the seal tool. Then I will rtv the keyway and put her back together and see what happens. Wish I would have looked at that closer before I bought the seals and took it all off. **** ADD I could have saved so much work by just reading and looking for the small stuff.
 
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