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Axle grease melting?

clinto

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Thanks for the help. This time I think I will just use rtv and leave the cork out of the equation and see what happens.Might get lucky.
Make sure you let the RTV cure for a minimum of 24 hours before moving the truck.

I might be misunderstanding you guys,I am looking at the TM,where is this cork plug,
or do you mean cork gasket?
IMAG0029.jpgIMAG0028.jpg

Is there a way to let the rear bearings be dif oil bathed instead of just grease?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73686-Oil-bath-bearings

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?56839-Convert-to-Oil-Bath

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?89082-Axle-Seal-Hub-Thoughts
 
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budman67

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Thanks Clinto, when they said cork gasket,I thought they meant between
the hub and the axle flange. They should call it a plug,would make it easier
for us newbies.

And thanks for the links.
 

Karl kostman

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Maybe this might help. I bought a Deuce a few years ago that had been sitting for a LONG time outside in the elements (HOT) I drove the truck about 250 miles home and everything seemed just peachy and just for a precaution I pulled a rear hub to have a look at the wheel bearing, at first glance it all appeared to be good but then really looking at the bearing under good light I spotted pitting on the top half of the rollers in the bearing. Having spotted this I pulled the bearing off the rest of the wheels and they were all the same, NOT GOOD! All I could come up with for a reason is as the truck sat there baking in the sun the grease in the bearings melted and ran down from the top of the bearing to the bottom leaving the top portion of the bearing with no lubricant or rust prevention. I replaces all bearings and seals on both rear axles! I do not know what type of grease was used to pack them but I wish I did because I sure would never want to do this job again anytime soon!
KK
 

Clay James

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I had this problem a bunch. Part of the problem was it was difficult to get the Chinese seals torqued just right since they're slightly different than the American ones. Too tight and the hubs run really hot and too loose and they leak like crazy. I finally got them where I wanted it but I had to fiddle with them a lot. Used RTV instead of the cork. I also did the axle vent mod which helps. My A2 was way worse about it than the 109 for reasons unknown. The 109 I did once after I got it and again when I serviced the brakes and it only leaked once from a backwards seal the military installed. The A2 I have done at least 5 times per rear and could never get the front to stop until I put new style, American made seals in it. Seems to be holding up now though.
 

m16ty

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M16, which rtv do you use. I think I will just use rtv this next time.
I think I've got a tube of Permatex brand at the moment but any brand name RTV sealant should work fine.

Is there a way to let the rear bearings be dif oil bathed instead of just grease?
Sure you could if you can find a oil seal that would fit in place of the inner seal. I'm not sure how much better it would be though, oil seals leak also from time to time. I guess the ideal situation would be to replace the inner seal with a oil seal but still use grease bearings and the outer seal. That way if the outer seal starts leaking it's no big deal and the bearings would just turn to oil bath. It would give you double the leak protection.
 
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