Axle grinding sound.

[gigabelly]

My M1008 has something wrong that I need help figuring out. I have searched the threads and cannot find anyone who has listed the same signs and symptoms so therefore I do not know what part is causing the problem. Before anyone jumps down my throat, Doghead et all, please note that I have searched.

Since replacing the brakes and calipers, I hear an intermittant grating/grinding/scraping noise coming from the front right wheel. I have removed everything again to ensure it was installed properly and it was. The sound is intermittant and seems to come on after a bump in the road, sometimes it stops after a bump as well. I greased the ball joints and every other cert I could find. That seemed to improve it, temporarily, (which is when I took it to a mechanic friend so the problem mysteriously dissapeared, of course) but by the end of the day, it was the same.

My next idea is to take apart the hub, rotor, bearings etc. I have never done this before and it seems a little intimidating, but I will figure it out. Since this is the Dana axle, how do I find the parts needed with civilian part numbers? I am printing out the TM as I write this and my printer is smoking, but that is for future problems.

Any problems with trying this on my own? Do I need any special tools for the bearing work?

One person suggested it might be my U joints and that I should put it in 4WD and take it out for a spin and do some tight turns to "break it loose". Not sure if that sounds correct but I will try it.

If anyone has some ideas or constructive comments, I would appreciate it.

 

[doghead]

So, it started after you replaced the front brake pads?

Did you replace the anti rattle clip on the new pads(inside pad)?

Does it go away if you gently apply the brake and drive?

 

[ODdave]

Sounds like you bent the dust sheild.

 

[gigabelly]

Correct. I replaced the brakes and calipers due to there being a pull to the right and a shimmy with braking. I had searched an answer to that out on here and it was suggested that the calipers could be causing the shimmy. I did replace the clip but I put the old ones on instead of the new ones out of error. I can double check the clip again to be sure it is seated properly if you think that would be a suspect. I'd rather not get into the rotor/hub if I don't need to.

 

[gigabelly]

oh, it doesnt stop with tapping the brakes, but it does seem to stop when I come to a complete stop, only to restart with the first bumps I encounter. I confess I do not know what the dust shield is. I will look in the manual.

 

[jeepjseries]

Oriley's has the two wheel bearings and back seals. Tell them it's for a chevy k30 pick up. Basic tools, grease, and this socket OEM/1/2 in. drive 76 x 80 mm. front wheel socket (25966) | Socket | AutoZone.com this socket removes the two spindle lock nuts and there is a washer in between. Have any questions email me. Does it do it with the hubs unlocked? I had missing transmission mount and with the hubs locked the front drive shaft was hitting the cross member that holds up the transmission.

 

[steve6x6x6]

Oriley's has the two wheel bearings and back seals. Tell them it's for a chevy k30 pick up. Basic tools, grease, and this socket OEM/1/2 in. drive 76 x 80 mm. front wheel socket (25966) | Socket | AutoZone.com this socket removes the two spindle lock nuts and there is a washer in between. Have any questions email me. Does it do it with the hubs unlocked? I had missing transmission mount and with the hubs locked the front drive shaft was hitting the cross member that holds up the transmission.

When you tell them K30 pickup,"single wheel" say 1986 for the year. This will keep them from getting confusioned.

 

[gigabelly]

I think Doghead may have been right. The TM I am printing was just going through the brake pages and I was looking at the diagram. I think I thought the retaining clip was the anti-rattle. It does not look familiar and there wasn't one on there when I took the old brakes off. Man, I am glad I didn't just start pulling the axle apart. I will see if that is it and report back.

Signing off

 

[acesneights1]

Sounds like you bent the dust sheild.

I was thinking that also or maybe you put one of the brake pads in backwards...The best way to try and diagnose the problem is to jack that wheel up off the ground and spin it by hand.

 

[hotdogs151a2]

Spinning the wheel will help in more than one way.
Thanks, Pvt. Hotdog

 

[deuceaid]

My Mom got here brakes changed ( by a local shop) awhile ago, and it later started making that same grind sound once in a while, later I pulled everything- checked,,, looked good, put back in place........I mentioned this to friend asking if he had heard this happening... (it happened to his coworker)...and it is starting to happen on low price brake pads ( cheap material) swapped in a new set of expensive pads and the grinding sound went away.....

Now this is the same grinding sound just like the pads are gone and metal is grinding on metal (scary) ,,,but the pads look almost brand new with almost 1/2" of material , and the squealer isnt even close.....maybe these are epa ozone-safe treefriendly brake pads

 

[acesneights1]

My Mom got here brakes changed ( by a local shop) awhile ago, and it later started making that same grind sound once in a while, later I pulled everything- checked,,, looked good, put back in place........I mentioned this to friend asking if he had heard this happening... (it happened to his coworker)...and it is starting to happen on low price brake pads ( cheap material) swapped in a new set of expensive pads and the grinding sound went away.....

Now this is the same grinding sound just like the pads are gone and metal is grinding on metal (scary) ,,,but the pads look almost brand new with almost 1/2" of material , and the squealer isnt even close.....maybe these are epa ozone-safe treefriendly brake pads

In simpler terms...Chinese made junk. It really is sad times for the automotive enthusiasts with the garbage coming from overseas.

 

[gigabelly]

I bought the top of the line heavy duty pads from napa. I think the anti-rattle clip is missing. I will pull it all apart tomorrow and re-assemble

 

[deuceaid]

In simpler terms...Chinese made junk. It really is sad times for the automotive enthusiasts with the garbage coming from overseas.

I would have thought the shop would at least put in mediocre stuff, but not total k-rap....sad....sad

 

[gigabelly]

Well, it wasn't the brakes. I took them off and ensured the clips were all in place. I replaced them anyway just for good measure. Then drove it around a little while and the problem started again. Soooo, I started to remove the hub and bearings to see if I could find any obvious problems. I did remove the hub and disc/rotor (after buying a $60 socket and new bearings) and nothing looked worn or damaged. In frustration I reassembled everything and made an appointment at a professional mechanics for Monday. I am dissapointed that I couldnt diagnose and repair the problem myself, but crap, I gotta know when to give it up and let a pro take over. I tried.

 

[hotdogs151a2]

Mr. gigabelly:
Don't be to hard on yourself. I know plenty of guys that would not even attempt to do the work you did. You will learn from this adventure.
Thanks for sharing with us all.
Thanks, Pvt Hotdog

 

[acesneights1]

Did you look at the backing plates ?

 

[Gonzomatic]

So, I know I’m late to the party on this, but it can be tricky to diagnose driveline problems by yourself. You just can’t see underneath and drive at the same time.
I recently lost front wheel drive(thanks for the Detroit rear in M1008s for getting me through the winter).

First step is to put the transfer case in gear and rotate the front drive shaft. If it turns your Xcase is broken, find a good gear shop. If it doesn’t, one of your front hubs is broken. Go to the store or the innernet and get a set of 30 spline locking hubs for a Dana 60. The 35 spline hubs are for a Dodge or something.
Do yourself a favor and replace the good side first. For me, I did the bad driver’s side first. When I say it was bad, I mean real bad. It had eaten itself and it took me a good 45 minutes to spray all the chunks out of the axle. Do the good one first so you get to know the parts before you get into the broken side. It took me 10 minutes to replace the good side.
I also had the classic loose steering issue recently. Really scary and completely unpredictable. It didn’t go for too long and I just tightened the bolts and made my steering soooo much better. I have an ORD brace on the way.
Everyone wants to know about maximum fitable tire size under stock suspension. I just put a set of 295/75R16s on my stock suspension truck and they fit perfectly. The tire shop said I had an inch of room to spare. Nice.
I also just finished up a 2” trailer hitch receiver plate that mounts under the stock bumper. If I can figure out how to upload pics I will. I plasma cut it off a plywood template. If it works I could build more.
I’ll be doing a custom winch bumper next week to mount my crappy harbor freight 12000# winch. Stay tuned.
A picture is worth a thousand words…..and I have none