Axle (s) rebuild thread, gears and lockers

[ramdough]

Haha, damn, well that could do it! Any damage to the hub surface? It's not smooth and hardened like the thrust race.

Also, it looks like they compensated for the missing race by adding 0.020” extra shims in the other side!?!?!?!


Hand slap face!




One more hub to check shims on, then letting it ride.

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[ramdough]

Got the new hose one. Drums, etc.



with the tire on, I can still rotate the drums. Without the tire, I don’t have the leverage on the studs. Is that too tight? I kept right side with right side and left with left, so should be the same as it came off.

Also could not fit the shovel in here so used the handle from the @Ronmar manual hydraulic pump (to be installed).


it worked great. Better than a shovel, but need more strength to do it.




I put antisieze in before I read that they should be dry.
What torque should I use now? Guessing 350ft-lb?

 

[ramdough]

Confirmed I can still spin my locker from the tire by caging my brakes on one side and lifting only one wheel. Tire spins and so does pinion. Also, that confirms power divider is unlocked.

 

[chucky]

Got the new hose one. Drums, etc.

View attachment 914746

with the tire on, I can still rotate the drums. Without the tire, I don’t have the leverage on the studs. Is that too tight? I kept right side with right side and left with left, so should be the same as it came off.

Also could not fit the shovel in here so used the handle from the @Ronmar manual hydraulic pump (to be installed).
View attachment 914747

it worked great. Better than a shovel, but need more strength to do it.

View attachment 914748


I put antisieze in before I read that they should be dry.
What torque should I use now? Guessing 350ft-lb?

Are you refering to putting the wheel back onto the hub for mounting ? And the shovel not working for that or did i miss something ? My reference to using the shovel to remount tire/wheel back on hub was to put the round part of the shovel under the tire and useing your foot/leg to push down on the handle to lift the tire up to where you can easily maneuver the rim on with both hands and your foot do the leveraging !

 

[ramdough]

Are you refering to putting the wheel back onto the hub for mounting ? And the shovel not working for that or did i miss something ? My reference to using the shovel to remount tire/wheel back on hub was to put the round part of the shovel under the tire and useing your foot/leg to push down on the handle to lift the tire up to where you can easily maneuver the rim on with both hands and your foot do the leveraging !

Yes, I did my work indoors and my benches are 3 feet from the truck. Had to use the pipe handle to get the tire on. No room for a long shovel handle. I tried a short one, but that was no good.


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[ramdough]

Ok, I re-shimmed my other hot hub…. It was almost .030 too thick. Re-shimming should help a lot with hub temperatures!


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[Ronmar]

I have a pair of 3-1/2’ pipes cut for tire work. 1” with .125” wall thickness. These fit thru the holes in the rim and right over the solid studs. You walk the tire in as close as you can, roll the hub to align the hollow CTIS stud and slip the pipes thru 2 holes near the top and over 2 studs. lifting at the ends of the pipes will lift the wheel and align it to the studs. Then you slide the wheel in along the pipes and over the studs with a foot. Works great…

 

[ramdough]

I have a pair of 3-1/2’ pipes cut for tire work. 1” with .125” wall thickness. These fit thru the holes in the rim and right over the solid studs. You walk the tire in as close as you can, roll the hub to align the hollow CTIS stud and slip the pipes thru 2 holes near the top and over 2 studs. lifting at the ends of the pipes will lift the wheel and align it to the studs. Then you slide the wheel in along the pipes and over the studs with a foot. Works great…

I did that basically except I was not aligned and I use the hydraulic pump handle to spin a lug at a time, then on. Probably not as easy as what you did, but I will always have my pump handle with me.


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[ramdough]

Got the new hose one. Drums, etc.

View attachment 914746

with the tire on, I can still rotate the drums. Without the tire, I don’t have the leverage on the studs. Is that too tight? I kept right side with right side and left with left, so should be the same as it came off.

Also could not fit the shovel in here so used the handle from the @Ronmar manual hydraulic pump (to be installed).
View attachment 914747

it worked great. Better than a shovel, but need more strength to do it.

View attachment 914748


I put antisieze in before I read that they should be dry.
What torque should I use now? Guessing 350ft-lb?

Had two questions in here…. Anyone know the answers?


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[hike]

Had two questions in here…. Anyone know the answers?


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Are they torqued differently than a M1078?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

He is referring to the torque changing due to the addition of lubricant - which it does. Unfortunately without actual testing of dry vs. lubed using a dial indicator to check stud stretch it's impossible to say with much accuracy. Probably easier to clean the anti-seize off and reinstall them dry.

That being said - I don't bother with torque on my lug nuts. I just impact them with my 1/2" air impact and move on. The military is comfortable with not including a torque wrench in the BII and the tire change instructions in the 10 manual just say to tighten in sequence and have unit maintenance torque them as soon as possible - it is likely that an operator isn't going to get the lug nuts much over 150 to 200 Ft/lbs in my estimation with the BII included hand tools. You can put a little sharpie mark on them and check them frequently if you like. I know how tight my impact gets them so... not worried about it personally and the military torque spec of 415 to 475 (for steel rims) are significantly higher than most conventional recommendations for 5/8" x 18 lug studs - which are typically in the neighborhood of 275 to 325 ft/lbs. The aluminum rims used on the HIMARS, etc are torqued to 350 to 400 ft/lbs on the regular lugs and only 150 to 200 on the CTIS lug nut.

 

[coachgeo]

Had two questions in here…. Anyone know the answers?


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does this help with one of your questions?