The usual surplus suspects for the seals and shim kit. To properly torque the spindle nut you need a rather oddball socket - 3-7/8" Eight Point extra deep - that really isn't available to buy since it's made special for the military by OTC......
FMTV Hub Socket 5120-01-567-9296, 3-7/8″ Socket, Navistar 3114485C1 OTC 1913GOV SPX 521687 Deep version of OTC 1913 R3B2
dpequip.net
But you can make your own by getting the civilian version and cutting it then extending it with a section of pipe. But also the torque is really low and not particularly precise (10 to 20 ft/lbs) so if you are used to packing bearings and what that kinda feels like you can accomplish the task with just a screwdriver and a few calibrated taps of the hammer on the roll pins attached to the nut.
On my truck (2008 A1R with 2,045 miles by the military and about 4x that in surplus) the grease was disgusting, the inner hub seals had failed and let in water, and the (likely one time) that PVT Snuffy did a hub service three of the four I could remove the spindle nut by hand (not torqued). Also one of my inner CTIS seals I found had been torn by the spindle threads on installation - which apparently is common because the hub is heavy and soldiers that really shouldn't be attempting it on their own will set the hub on the spindle during installation and damage the seal.
If you have had your truck for that long and have not done this service then it should be at the top of your list. These are not fire and forget axles - they have a lot of foolishness going on and the longevity of the reductions drives depends on accurate shimming, the seals (especially the inner "live" seal that keeps water out of the inner bearing) need to be replaced to keep the gear oil, grease, and pressurized air from mixing - also the condition of the air system and especially the dryer/filter play a role in the longevity of the CTIS seals as they are directly exposed to moisture, rust, etc from the air system.