Batteries charged, but no panel lights or starter

[bobmart]

Hi folks, I bought a M1008 from Oklahoma local fire dept at GSA auction 7 months ago. Paid $1,921, trailered the truck 550 miles back to New Mexico. About 33,000 miles on odometer. Appears to have been sitting for some time. Just now trying to get it running. I hope to use it in my tractor services business for towing a flatbed trailer and a dump trailer. I replaced the radiator, installed batteries. Headlights work (figured out light switch panel settings), but no instrument lights when ignition key is turned, and starter will not engage (no clicking sound from solenoid either). I have checked the fuses, and have read through the electrical system links for advice. What am I missing? Is there a master fuse in the engine compartment? Do I have a fusable link problem?

 

[Assel]

could be ignition switch, starter relay, starter solenoid, bad cables... have you tried hooking the starter direct to the batteries to see if it would run?

oh and welcome to the site

 

[bobmart]

could be ignition switch, starter relay, starter solenoid, bad cables... have you tried hooking the starter direct to a battery to see if it would run?

oh and welcome to the site

Thanks Assel. Think I will try direct battery to starter connection. Still don't understand why I do not have instrument cluster lights with the key is turned on, unless the ignition switch is totally fried. These fire dept and state forestry dept auction vehicles all had emergency communications equipment installed, then removed before auction, so you don't know what might have been torn out along with radios and sirens.

 

[Tinstar]

Have you checked fuses and relays?

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

No instrument lights is almost always attributed to tarnish on the lamp socket contactors and the conducting film. Clean them with 400 grit sandpaper and reassemble. P.S. If your Gen1 and Gen2 lights won't light up with the switch in the on position they won't charge.

 

[bobmart]

Have you checked fuses and relays?

I have checked the fuses but not the relays. I will bring up the electrical schematic from -34 for location.

 

[bobmart]

Looks like I will have to open up the instrument panel to clean up the connections. I have read the prior posts on how to do that. I hoped there was an easier solution. I don't know how long this vehicle had been sitting before going to auction. At least I have power to the headlights and turn signals. Thanks for the help.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Looks like I will have to open up the instrument panel to clean up the connections. I have read the prior posts on how to do that. I hoped there was an easier solution. I don't know how long this vehicle had been sitting before going to auction. At least I have power to the headlights and turn signals. Thanks for the help.

The easiest way to get the instrument cluster out is to remove the bezel first, then the dash, then the two screws holding on the transmission shift indicator, then the instrument cluster. You'll have to disconnect the speedometer cable first.

 

[Tinstar]

While your in there, clean up every ground you find.
Use good electrical grease also.

Its amazing how just doing that can make a huge difference and get rid of other gremlins.

 

[cpf240]

Um, you mentioned that you installed batteries... does that mean that it didn't have any when you got it? If so, are you certain they are hooked up correctly? Have you verified if it is still in the stock 24/12v configuration or has it been converted to 12v only?

Also, please check the TM section of this site for the -10 'user manual', the -20 and -34 service manuals, and the -20p and -34p parts manuals as well as the helpful threads sticky at the top of the forum.

 

[bobmart]

The truck was missing both batteries when purchased. The battery cables and both alternators were in place, so the 12 volt starter conversion is highly unlikely. My voltmeter (multimeter) reads 12+ volts across each set of battery terminals and 25+ volts across both batteries in series. I have read through the TMs many months ago but will review them again. I have also read through the sticky notes on electrical issues and will follow the cleaning procedures for electrical connections and report back when I have some positive results. Thanks to all you members for your advice and suggestions. When I get the M1008 running I will get rid of the ugly fire engine red paint and restore to camo paint.

 

[corelokt]

Clean, clean, clean. Star washers and dielectric grease. Check the tightness of all the cable lugs. Maybe even blast the crimped area of the cable with brake cleaner. Clean your bulkhead fuse panel connection and dielectric grease that too.
Mine Sat this past almost year and I had to remove all the cable connections and do the above. Takes a lot to crank a diesel.over.

 

[corelokt]

I thought my Redtop's were shorted, their less than a year old. Glad it was cable issues.

 

[corelokt]

Also, when headlight switches get old they do funky things, so do ignition and dimmer switches. The little foil tabs in the gauge panel connection are touchy. Better to pull the dash and get in their that way. Plus you can do a lot more other cleaning that way. Your ground block is behind the blackout switches.

 

[Brerfox727]

No instrument lights is almost always attributed to tarnish on the lamp socket contactors and the conducting film. Clean them with 400 grit sandpaper and reassemble. P.S. If your Gen1 and Gen2 lights won't light up with the switch in the on position they won't charge.

What could be wrong if the GEN light stays on?

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

What could be wrong if the GEN light stays on?

Then your alternator isn't charging. Bad alternator.

 

[usabamaman]

I was driving down the road just before dark and all my lights went out. I limped home with just my add-on daytime running lights. I checked everything and couldn't find an obvious problem. I then unplugged the black out light swith and tactical running light and "presto" all lights worked again.

 

[Keith_J]

The starter is already directly connected to the batteries, it receives the 24 volt signal to turn on when the metal can relay is energized. This relay is triggered by a 12 volt signal from the ignition switch.

All other circuits are 12 volt. The main 12 volt supply is through the terminal board on the left side of the firewall, it has two #8 studs and multiple wires connected. It is protected by a fusible link so check for 12 volts here.