battery cut-off switch for deuce

[rosco]

As for locating a "leaking" accessory, I have used a volt meter between the live feed & the frame. Be sure you have good connection (bare metal) when testing each appliance, or you might miss the problen. Your only talking about a couple of volts. I had one on an M211 once - it was the starter contacts - just gummy and dirty.

Comercial battery disconect switches are availiable, with adequate capacity ratings. Because of an engine coolant heater (M35A2), my batteries are under the passenger seat. I located the disconect switch on the battery ground, in the coolant heater compartment ( which used to be the battery compartment on most trucks). Locating the switch on the ground cable, simplified things, in an area that had more room.

Lee in Alaska

 

[cranetruck]

As for locating a "leaking" accessory, I have used a volt meter between the live feed & the frame..... I had one on an M211 once - it was the starter contacts - just gummy and dirty.....

Hmmm...I may have been hasty in my assumption...did you replace the contacts in the solenoid or did you let it be? The contacts handle several hundred amps and arcing help make the contact by "burning" off oxides in the process. When not energized, they are separated by 1/8 inch or so.
Was the leak attributed to external contamination perhaps?
Please, elaborate.

 

[rosco]

Lets see, Its been at least 10 years since I ran that truck and it was probably 20 some years old when I had the problem. I found the leak with everything shut down. The engine is a 302 GMC. As I recall, it doesn't have a solenoid, but I will confirm that tomorrow. As I remember, it has mechanical contacts. The grime & electrical electrical debris from arcing along with age - all of the above. It was lreaking volts between the hot side and the frame/ground. Only a couple - using the 10x scale on the meter.

Lee in Alaska

 

[cranetruck]

Just picking on you Lee, don't worry about it.

 

[rosco]

I don't mind! Unless one is challenged, I at least don't think much. At the time, I recall being very pleased with myself, at learning to use a meter and what that little needle ment when it wiggled. I was used to looking for an arc flash and noise, to see if I had juice.

Lee in Alaska

 

[m35a2cowner]

Voltage draw

Another way to check for a voltage draw is to disconnect the cable from the battery clamp and put a 24 volt light in between (clamp on one side probe on the other) the battery and the cable (it will light up if there is much of a draw---one assumes a 24 volt buzzer would work too) and disconnect the accessories one at a time. When the light goes out you have found the draw. One of the most common things I have found is the alternator. Bad diodes will create a draw.

 

[bottleworks]

Re: Voltage draw

Another way to check for a voltage draw is to disconnect the cable from the battery clamp and put a 24 volt light in between

Or use a multimeter or an inductive amp meter. Then you actually have numbers to work with.

Sense you have your meter out already, you can also check to see how much A/C voltage is being produced by the alternator (when running). You should check it at the alternator - not at the batteries. The batteries act like a capacitor and will skew your reading. A shorted diode will cause excessive A/C voltage....and drain the batteries with the engine off.

 

[rmgill]

RE: Re: Voltage draw

Personally, I prefer having a good positive cut out that keeps the truck from drawing anything absolutely. 2 of my 3 MVs have it.

 

[joec]

I put a keyed battery disconnect in mine in the floorboard of the passenger's side. There is a dimple in the floor board and if you drill it out it puts the switch very close to the starter. It is accessible from the driver's seat and would-be thief won't be looking for it there. Just disconnect the wire from the solenoid and put it on one side of the switch and a short (Heavy Duty) battery cable from the switch to the starter solenoid. I under-coated the switch so it is harder to see. A bit of theft protection as no is looking for it where it is and it disconnects everything. All parts from NAPA. Its further from the exhaust than it looks

Cat master switch..cool...want to know a trick grind the high stops off the key to make it look like a duck bill . Then that way you can take the key in and out when it is on. Thats what we do with the equipment that have the older switches in them. If you remeber thats its on..! I've been doin it forever. My dad was doing it in the 70's just some food for thought.

 

[73m819]

all my old cat keys are like that