Battery help w/ dump bed hydraulic pump, big sparks

[Dbluff]

SS - New to site. Just installed a 24v dump bed kit on the M35a2.

During install had hydraulic pump straight to batteries for testing with truck cables disconnected. After testing connected truck cables and hydraulic cables. When placing negative on, the biggest spark and small melt of terminal happened. Disconnected hydraulic pump, no spark and truck cranked up.

Disconnected truck cables and just hooked up hydraulic pump, no spark and it work fine.

So each work independently on truck batteries, but when combined it’s sparks and melt time.

I did call OEM of kit, they’re stumped right now as it’s a simple positive and negative connection.

is there something the Deuce doesn’t like when adding accessories?

Any thoughts?

 

[Dbluff]

So new news. My pump once the positive cable is connected, energizes the chassis. Oem says it’s the truck ground system somehow. Does the M35, require some sort of extra ground when adding accessories?

 

[Mullaney]

So new news. My pump once the positive cable is connected, energizes the chassis. Oem says it’s the truck ground system somehow. Does the M35, require some sort of extra ground when adding accessories?

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Any possibility that maybe you have a piece of wood or maybe a piece of rubber between the frame and the "base" of the dump frame? It's goofy as can be, but installing (for example) a line body onto a new truck - gets a stick of oak between the frame and the bed body. Makes it impossible to get lights to work because you have no ground... Same concept for the dump hydraulic motor.

Good quick way to check for this problem is use a set of battery jumper cables. Scrape off the paint and attach one end to the frame and the other end to the dump bed frame. That way for sure you know you have a good ground.

If that solves your problem, make yourself a "jumper" battery cable (round lugs on both ends) and drill a hole in each, clean away the paint, add some Anti-Oxidation paste, then bold it together. One connection on the frame. One connection on the bump dump bed frame.

 

[Jbulach]

Sounds like your pump is inadvertently wired positive ground. Should be able to simply swap positive for negative, as well as raise and lower on your controller.

 

[Dbluff]

Was able to pinpoint a short in the solenoid, back powering through the pump case onto the hydraulic lines and into the frame. Pretty interesting. At least I know from reply’s above no special requirement is needed for the deuce. Thanks all

 

[Mullaney]

Was able to pinpoint a short in the solenoid, back powering through the pump case onto the hydraulic lines and into the frame. Pretty interesting. At least I know from reply’s above no special requirement is needed for the deuce. Thanks all

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Wow!

Well that turns out to be good news. A pain in the anatomy, but at least you got it solved. That almost makes me wonder if having a spare solenoid would be useful since it controls the up and down function.

THANKS for updating the post with the solution too!!

 

[Dbluff]

Agree on spares, purchasing now slowly spares for the M35 to keep as backups.

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Wow!

Well that turns out to be good news. A pain in the anatomy, but at least you got it solved. That almost makes me wonder having a spare solenoid would be useful since it controls the up and down function.

THANKS for updating the post with the solution too!!