Battery post melt down

[stampy]

I believe dielectic grease is the same stuff and it works great on all electrical fittings/ connectors

 

[dozer1]

I believe dielectic grease is the same stuff and it works great on all electrical fittings/ connectors

Thanks Stampy but the 2 products are quite different. dielectric grease is non conductive . The stuff I was talking about is a conductive anti-oxident used in residential wiring mostly. Where aluminum wire is in contact with other metals.

 

[stampy]

Well Dang! all these years I thought it was conductive....thanks for the education...well you and google.

 

[panshark]

thanks for the advice folks, I really appreciate it!

 

[cranetruck]

Bjorn, if you dont mind my asking. What would your take be on using a "noalox" type product on battery terminals in general ? I know its not really designed for that application, but it is conductive and grease like.

IMHO, keep the terminals clean and tight. What makes an electrical connection good is a good metal to metal contact. Typical crimped terminals are "gas tight" and last for decades (with the correct crimping tool).
Problem with lead-acid battery terminals are the relatively low clamping pressure due to the soft alloys involved. Add to that a dirty vibrating environment with a few drops of spilled sulfuric acid. Grease, including dielectric type may help protect the joint, but nothing beats a clean, dry and tight connection.
The mil-spec battery terminals and hardware are made to precise specifications, taper of the posts, plating and alloy of the nuts and bolts used.
Lock washers are not specified and place the cable ring terminal between the head of the bolt and battery clamp.
Use some baking soda and distilled water to wash the top of the batteries from time to time.
The stenciling on the battery box should read "Check battery terminals daily".

 

[dozer1]

Much appreciated

 

[panshark]

for your consideration:

I took a battery into the only place in town with a battery post mold, and the guy told me the battery post was melted down below the acid. Due to damage being below the acid, he refused to do the pour, stating that the lead wouldn't set right due to acid interference, etc. Prior to inspection, the guy quoted me $20 to pour a new post over the phone. Is the guy right or wrong? Has the post seal been compromised?

 

[panshark]

additional info: sorry for the poorly focused cell-phone pictures

 

[cranetruck]

Clean it up and see if you still have a good seating surface. If not compromised/molten, it's a good chance the insides is still in good condition IMHO.
If you can drill and tap about 1/2 inch into the cleaned up post, install a replacement.

 

[panshark]

I think the seating surface is ok. I took the battery into a competitor, he said it's repairable, but he doesn't have the mold to fix it with. I asked him about tapping a new post, he said the lead might be too soft to hold a threaded bolt, and the new post might rip out. I'd like to say my batteries would never see any up-and-down abuse that would cause such a rip to happen...I would like to say that. However, I'm probably like many on here who have scrapped the 6tl setup, my batteries sit unclamped in the battery box. I prevent lateral movement with 2x4 blocks.

You think having them big batteries free-balling in the battery box could lead to loose clamps that zap the battery posts?

 

[steelandcanvas]

The threads pull the contact together, the new post against the finished flat old surface. The threads don't have to carry any current for it to work.

Being an Electrician for 1/2 my lifetime, it was hard to conceive the idea of using any kind of grease around electrical connections. I understand now what Dozer1 was referring to.

 

[cranetruck]

Being an Electrician for 1/2 my lifetime, it was hard to conceive the idea of using any kind of grease around electrical connections. I understand now what Dozer1 was referring to.

Jonathan, dielectric compound (grease) serves a purpose when used, say on a light bulb socket prior to installation. The grease will allow metal to metal contact when the socket is installed (it's displaced) and protects the remaining surfaces from corrosion.

 

[cranetruck]

......
You think having them big batteries free-balling in the battery box could lead to loose clamps that zap the battery posts?

Depends on how the cables are supported. If they can follow along as the batteries move about, there shouldn't be a problem.

Make it a habit to check the battery connections before cranking the engine.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Jonathan, dielectric compound (grease) serves a purpose when used, say on a light bulb socket prior to installation. The grease will allow metal to metal contact when the socket is installed (it's displaced) and protects the remaining surfaces from corrosion.

Just goes to show you, even an 'ol dog can learn a new trick or two. Thanks Bjorn!

 

[panshark]

here's a video I found on how to make melting a new battery post look easy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJJzRR0Ud8A
they mentioned both a standard, and a Lead Head Post Mold in the video.
Here's a link to the Lead Head mold: Lead Head Post Mold
I'm posting this info because it looks like this technique is becoming a lost art, and all the local guys I've talked to say that not only they refuse to do it for insurance purposes, but that the molds are rare as hen's teeth to find...

 

[HORNETD]

I believe dielectic grease is the same stuff and it works great on all electrical fittings/ connectors

Dielectric grease is non conductive. It is used to prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals, among other things, and should not be used on connections were conductivity is specifically desired.
--
Tom Horne

 

[Speedwoble]

I'd like to say my batteries would never see any up-and-down abuse that would cause such a rip to happen...I would like to say that. However, I'm probably like many on here who have scrapped the 6tl setup, my batteries sit unclamped in the battery box. I prevent lateral movement with 2x4 blocks.

You think having them big batteries free-balling in the battery box could lead to loose clamps that zap the battery posts?

Lead is subject to "cold creep" such that it will loosen simply from having tension on it. Thus you will want to check the fastener frequently if you go this route.

 

[stampy]

Thanks HORNETD Dozer1 already "learned "me. All this time I have been using it wrong

 

[DavidWymore]

More of the same issue :

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...erminal-any-Options-And-new-Seat-Covers/page2

How about cleaning the post and clamp and melting solder down in the connection to fill the void? Much less dangerous (cooler) than lead.

 

[daytonatrbo]

More of the same issue :

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...erminal-any-Options-And-new-Seat-Covers/page2

How about cleaning the post and clamp and melting solder down in the connection to fill the void? Much less dangerous (cooler) than lead.

That would basically amount to a "cold solder" joint since you would not be sufficiently heating the substrate metal (lead post). The bond between your solder filler and the lead would be very weak. This fix would be "cosmetic" at best.