stampy
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I believe dielectic grease is the same stuff and it works great on all electrical fittings/ connectors
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Thanks Stampy but the 2 products are quite different. dielectric grease is non conductive . The stuff I was talking about is a conductive anti-oxident used in residential wiring mostly. Where aluminum wire is in contact with other metals.I believe dielectic grease is the same stuff and it works great on all electrical fittings/ connectors
IMHO, keep the terminals clean and tight. What makes an electrical connection good is a good metal to metal contact. Typical crimped terminals are "gas tight" and last for decades (with the correct crimping tool).Bjorn, if you dont mind my asking. What would your take be on using a "noalox" type product on battery terminals in general ? I know its not really designed for that application, but it is conductive and grease like.
Being an Electrician for 1/2 my lifetime, it was hard to conceive the idea of using any kind of grease around electrical connections. I understand now what Dozer1 was referring to.The threads pull the contact together, the new post against the finished flat old surface. The threads don't have to carry any current for it to work.
Jonathan, dielectric compound (grease) serves a purpose when used, say on a light bulb socket prior to installation. The grease will allow metal to metal contact when the socket is installed (it's displaced) and protects the remaining surfaces from corrosion.Being an Electrician for 1/2 my lifetime, it was hard to conceive the idea of using any kind of grease around electrical connections. I understand now what Dozer1 was referring to.
Depends on how the cables are supported. If they can follow along as the batteries move about, there shouldn't be a problem.......
You think having them big batteries free-balling in the battery box could lead to loose clamps that zap the battery posts?![]()
Just goes to show you, even an 'ol dog can learn a new trick or two. Thanks Bjorn!Jonathan, dielectric compound (grease) serves a purpose when used, say on a light bulb socket prior to installation. The grease will allow metal to metal contact when the socket is installed (it's displaced) and protects the remaining surfaces from corrosion.
Dielectric grease is non conductive. It is used to prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals, among other things, and should not be used on connections were conductivity is specifically desired.I believe dielectic grease is the same stuff and it works great on all electrical fittings/ connectors
Lead is subject to "cold creep" such that it will loosen simply from having tension on it. Thus you will want to check the fastener frequently if you go this route.I'd like to say my batteries would never see any up-and-down abuse that would cause such a rip to happen...I would like to say that. However, I'm probably like many on here who have scrapped the 6tl setup, my batteries sit unclamped in the battery box. I prevent lateral movement with 2x4 blocks.
You think having them big batteries free-balling in the battery box could lead to loose clamps that zap the battery posts?![]()
That would basically amount to a "cold solder" joint since you would not be sufficiently heating the substrate metal (lead post). The bond between your solder filler and the lead would be very weak. This fix would be "cosmetic" at best.More of the same issue :
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...erminal-any-Options-And-new-Seat-Covers/page2
How about cleaning the post and clamp and melting solder down in the connection to fill the void? Much less dangerous (cooler) than lead.