Battery woes

[army98]

I need a new batterie for my 1031, it currently has the large square batteies in it , where can I get a matching bat or will it hurt to put a smaller bat in place of the bad one?

Or how can you fix a bat that does not hold a charge? (without replacing it)

 

[Chevytruck]

each battery is 12v, you could just replace it with a cheap one... or get commercial batteries.

no idea about the charging thing though

 

[hobie237]

Just replace it. Batteries go bad. If the other one checks out good, no reason to replace it. $120 or so buys a good 1000-1200CCA commercial battery, which is what I have. Since they're in series, the amperages will average in the circuit.

 

[tm america]

no way to fix em just change em out.6tls dont hold up very good if theyre not being drivin regularly .so if you only drive it once in a while get some commercial batts you'll be alot happier

 

[Militoy]

There are techniques for de-sulfating a battery that has been left to sit uncharged for too long - but there is a limit to the amount of lead sulfite that can be pulsed off the plates and put back into solution. In general, if there is a bulge under the positive terminal, or a very noticable bulge in the side of the case - you're better off buying a new battery. The 6TL battery ("large, square" one) is available from most large battery distributors, such as Exide, etc. Price will be around $100 for a new one - depending on where you live. I have never bought one in MO. The 6TMF or 6TLMF are newer, maintanance-free replacement types for the 6TL. They have a slightly lower cold-cranking capacity than the 6TL - and I personally prefer to have the option of adding water or electrolyte. Optima Military battery Systems also makes an adapter tray to adapt an Optima battery into the 6TL profile. Great idea - but the adapter costs more than the original 6TL!

BTW - there are a number of poorly-made knockoff 6TL's that are made in China and Korea, that don't last very well. I've had 2 (sold by Sunbelt) that shorted on me, while in service. You should have heard the "Bang" as each of them went out!

 

[jw4x4]

Get a group 31 battery (physical size) with as many cranking amps as you can. Try to get one with a flat top (recessed caps) to make the hold-down work properly.

 

[SCSG-G4]

I seem to have brought a pair of 6TMF's back from the brink using a combination of one Solargizer per battery during the day and then running the 6 amp battery charger for two hours on each battery at night. When I started one battery read 4 volts and the other was about 2.5 (across the terminals). The process has taken a month and they may not hold a charge in actual use - haven't tried them yet. Specific gravity is looking much better (1.250-1.275 or better). The Hawker's in Deuce #2 show only 23 volts, but it cranks just as fast an any of the others - I've been told they 'like' to run a little low. YMMV

 

[LibertyDeuce]

Try your local TRACTOR SUPPLY COMPANY. I was shopping the other day at my local TSC and they had a great selection of heavy duty batteries at decent prices.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

Your square batteries seems to be standard Nato 100 Ah batteries, as they are called in Germany. There is one standard shape available. They should be available at least by order at any automotive parts shop. It is a mass product!
Exite batteries are from far east and not the first choise. Try to get VARTA or HAGEN or Bosch or such from Europe. The quality is better. Try to get RF batteries, these are for construction mashines and rattle prove.
Wolf

 

[trooper632]

Wal-Mart batteries have worked just as well as any other, have them in 3 m1009's with no worry's at all. $76.00 a piece with a 3 year full replacement warranty, and then 5 year limited warranty.

 

[hndrsonj]

If you keep a 50$ battery maintainer hooked to the batteries (from northern tools for example), the batteries will probably outlast your desire to keep the truck.

 

[mangus580]

Its suggested to always replace your batteries in pairs... this goes for any 'multi' battery system.

 

[Militoy]

I seem to have brought a pair of 6TMF's back from the brink using a combination of one Solargizer per battery during the day and then running the 6 amp battery charger for two hours on each battery at night. When I started one battery read 4 volts and the other was about 2.5 (across the terminals). The process has taken a month and they may not hold a charge in actual use - haven't tried them yet. Specific gravity is looking much better (1.250-1.275 or better). The Hawker's in Deuce #2 show only 23 volts, but it cranks just as fast an any of the others - I've been told they 'like' to run a little low. YMMV

The "Hawker's" do tend to run a little low on voltage - we have been running that type of battery for military programs at work for years, and the spiral construction is a fairly robust design. I still have some of the old Gates models (from the company that licensed the patent to Hawker Siddeley) - and as long as they are maintained properly, they will last as long or longer than just about any flooded or AGM design. Don't believe the part of the data sheet from Hawker though, that claims you don't have to limit charge rate - this type of battery will "football" or overheat and burst, if you boost an undercharged one too quickly!