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Before and After Pics of the M1009

simoncrk

Member
226
0
16
Location
Wilson, OK. AKA Simon Creek
Thats one good lookin M1009!!! Must be a 6" lift im guessin. Gotta ask you about that light on top. Is that one of the ones that you can rotate 360 and aim up and down from inside the cab??? If so where did you get it and how much did it cost?
Thanks. It's a 6" pro comp. I got the lite from golite.com, they sell em in 24 volt or 12. It's gotta cordless remote. I can operate the light from about a 100 yds from the truck. The thing cost about $230 Ive had about 3 yrs. they might have went up. Now they've an HID lite. When I get some extra $$$ Im gonna get one. I really like it in the winter time, you don't have to roll down the winders to hunt hogs at night, and stay nice and warm. LOL:grd:
 

simoncrk

Member
226
0
16
Location
Wilson, OK. AKA Simon Creek
looks great for sure. i'm in a similar spot wit hmine. how did you approach the paint scheme? do you mine elaborating? looks like you kept the orig green and repainted the black and brown? did you match the origianal pattern? any info is helpful. i was going to wax my whole rig and then rattle can black,brown and green as needed. my top is showing 'white' in a few spots too. figured on layong down the green black and brown on top....thanks for the help:beer:
Well, I might hold off on the wax. I got on the SS Resources and found the Camo Paint Schemes for the M1009. It says to tape off everything, and them paint the whole thing green. Then I just kinda 'shot from the hip'. I printed off the pics of the M1009 with the paint scheme and used the air brush (while looking at the pics) to outline the brown first then filled it in. and the samething on the black. I first tried to used rattle cans and didn't like it. An airbrush paint gun works great. just watch the over spray. The paint scheme pics have numbers like 1 is for green, 2 is for black, and 3 is brown. I may have the numbers bassackwards but you get the picture. As far as the fiberglass turning white on top, mine was doing the samething, so I just layed the paint down thicker with several coats. Oh yeah, steam it off real good underneath as well as the rest, and I put four coats of green in the fenders and any place else I thought might rust with the mud and water. I got the paint from Rapco Military Parts, you can google them. Mark is a pretty good guy and they ship fast.
Hope all this helps.
Good Luck!!!![thumbzup]
 

mrlippy

New member
18
6
3
Location
Huntington Beach, Ca
one more q for you simoncrk. what did you do about driveshaft vibration? i lengthened mine for the 6" lift, but i'm still getting low speed, low end vib. and a little vib at acceleration freeway speed. i've been told by my lift guy to go to a double yoke driveshaft. somewhere around $500-600 more. any ideas on your end?
 

burbn10

New member
142
0
0
Location
Lake Villa, IL
one more q for you simoncrk. what did you do about driveshaft vibration? i lengthened mine for the 6" lift, but i'm still getting low speed, low end vib. and a little vib at acceleration freeway speed. i've been told by my lift guy to go to a double yoke driveshaft. somewhere around $500-600 more. any ideas on your end?
Did you drop the transfer case or shim the rear axle at all?
 

mrlippy

New member
18
6
3
Location
Huntington Beach, Ca
yeah, i shimmed the rear end and used the shaved/angled blocks that came with my kit. its not a bad vib, but its there at 60+ mph and acceleratiing, and slow launch speed on the pavement. i don't want to have a trail failure if i can prevent it:driver:
 

simoncrk

Member
226
0
16
Location
Wilson, OK. AKA Simon Creek
one more q for you simoncrk. what did you do about driveshaft vibration? i lengthened mine for the 6" lift, but i'm still getting low speed, low end vib. and a little vib at acceleration freeway speed. i've been told by my lift guy to go to a double yoke driveshaft. somewhere around $500-600 more. any ideas on your end?
I took mine to a place in OKC called Blumenthals Drivetrain. They put a completely new rear driveline in mine, With wider yolks on the tranny end. The wider yolks gave it more clearance. I just picked it up today from there, and it drives great. The total was $268 that included all new U-Joints for the front and back drivelines. You might give them a call, Armondo is who took care of mine. Tell him you need the same driveline that he built for the guy with the Army Blazer this week.
Here is they're contact info.
http://www.blumenthalmfg.com/
Hope this helps.
 
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