Best Head Gasket for 6.2??

[5.0fox]

Just wondering if there were any heavier head gaskets that could be put on the 6.2

Dad has a chevy P30 stepvan with the 6.2 and it's got almost 300k on the clock. In the past 2-3 years it's blown 3 head gaskets, all of them on the passgenger side between the front cylinder and the water jacket in the head. This last time it blew it we pulled it down and now the block has groove cut into it. We were able to get another 6.2 takeout of another stepvan from a family run shop and we pullled the heads yesterday to make sure all looked good before we put it back in.....and that gasket was blown in the EXACT same location. The block isn't grooved at all, but wondering if the cometic gaskets or some other brand will help to prevent blowing the gaskets in the future? It seems to us that where it's blowing could be a hot spot, and maybe thats why it seems it always blows right there?? Any suggestions or input?

 

[jwaller]

cometic's are an awesome gasket but you will need to have a very smooth deck and cyl head surface for them. I used them in all my high hp race trucks.

 

[5.0fox]

We had the heads plained when the last gasket blew so they are still good I assume. And the stock replacement gaskets still popped in the same spot. I can't find where cometic makes a gasket specifically for the 6.2 but I have found them for the 6.5 and from what I've read they same to be interchangeable maybe?

 

[jwaller]

I bet they are the same 6.5-6.2 the cometic takes a really really smooth surface(think glass), usually much more smooth than a std head gasket surfacing usually gives.

 

[5.0fox]

so for the cometics to be properly installed we would have to get the block plained as well? I was hoping we could just go with the heads and maybe it would work. We may end up just having to go with another stock replacement and hope for the best.

 

[southdave]

Maybe look into head studs, instead of of bolts. I have read that it a reamidy for blown head gasket or at min. the fequency

 

[jwaller]

so for the cometics to be properly installed we would have to get the block plained as well? I was hoping we could just go with the heads and maybe it would work. We may end up just having to go with another stock replacement and hope for the best.

yes, both eng and head must have a super smooth surface. fwiw I have used cometics without getting the proper finish and it's worked great. but it's not the recommended procedure.

 

[4x4 Forever]

so for the cometics to be properly installed we would have to get the block plained as well? I was hoping we could just go with the heads and maybe it would work. We may end up just having to go with another stock replacement and hope for the best.

Might want to take a look at the block with a known straight edge to see if it does needs machining. And as SouthDave said: use head studs.

Good luck!

 

[stump]

Worked in a military shop. Used Felpro gaskets. Tighten in 3 steps 20, 40, 93 ft lb. dont go by the mark and turn in the book. after 3rd step just go over them one more time at 93 lb. Use thread sealer on the bolts and rtv on the bottom of the bolt heads. Clean the threads on the bolts and in the block with a tap and dye first. And a stud kit is better but we didnt use them.

 

[5.0fox]

We had considered head studs the last time the hg blew. However since it is in a P30 series stepvan we were unsure if we would have enough room to get the head back off if need be in the future. Since we have the heads off the block in the truck now, we will have to measure and see what we come up with. So i'm thinking for that to work we will need at least 2x head thickness plus 3/8"-1/2" for the nut on top of the stud?

 

[sparky1]

We had considered head studs the last time the hg blew. However since it is in a P30 series stepvan we were unsure if we would have enough room to get the head back off if need be in the future. Since we have the heads off the block in the truck now, we will have to measure and see what we come up with. So i'm thinking for that to work we will need at least 2x head thickness plus 3/8"-1/2" for the nut on top of the stud?

just did gaskets on my m008.i used arp studs and put them in after the head was installed on block.they have an allen hex in them so you can install with allen wrench.used fel-pro gaskets.use thread chaser to clean tapped holes not thread cutting taps.clean surfaces well.all is well no problems.oh yeah the studs are expensive,but top quality.

 

[jwaller]

all the new arp head studs now come with allen heads in the studs so you can remove them with the head in place.

 

[IYAOYAS]

Yep, so now my M1009 has a blown head gasket on the driver side of the motor. I have not been losing any coolant or overheating. Just loosing about a quart of oil per 6 hours of drive time and can see it lslowly leaking from seal. I agree that Fel-Pro gaskets and using ARP studs with thread sealer is the way to go, and want to tackle this myself, but I am not sure if I can chase down another helping hand around here.

* what is the best way to re-prime the duel back into the injector lines after the job is done? Any thoughts other than what the few words say in the book?

 

[WARWAG]

From what I have read the stock head bolts tend to loosen up over time. I wonder if that is the cause of your head gasket failure? I would go with ARP studs. In fact thats what I will go with when I rebuild my 6.2.

 

[mktopside]

I learned a long time ago that there isn't a head gasket (or any gasket for that matter) in the world that won't benefit from a properly applied layer of copper spray.

Not saying this will fix your problem, but every little bit helps.

I used to be big into VW's, and it was well accepted that the only real way to keep the head gasketss on a VR6 (15 degree V6 with a single head that covered both banks) from leaking over time was copper spray and ARP head studs.

$0.02

Mike

 

[Coal Cracker]

I was curious on this myself, I'm assembling a 6.2 now for my m1028 due to nuts and bolts down the intake from GL, block got jugs machined 030 over , heads and block were decked. I'm installing a DSG girdle and ARP head studs, the Machine shop supplied Victor head gaskets for me to use, but the felpro print o seals look like a nice gasket, Any thoughts?

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Sorry Coal Cracker but this thread is 4 years old.... It does have great information though.

 

[Coal Cracker]

I figured I'd stir the pot and see what boils up. After looking at the victors Im stiking with them due to the beefier fire ring

 

[jdknech]

I learned a long time ago that there isn't a head gasket (or any gasket for that matter) in the world that won't benefit from a properly applied layer of copper spray.

Not saying this will fix your problem, but every little bit helps.

I used to be big into VW's, and it was well accepted that the only real way to keep the head gasketss on a VR6 (15 degree V6 with a single head that covered both banks) from leaking over time was copper spray and ARP head studs.

$0.02

Mike

I have used copper spray on every head gasket i have ever replaced.. I have done a turbo 6.2,(10-12psi) and a turbo 6.5 (17-20psi) and never blew a gasket.. I used the fel-pro gaskes, and used 2 coats of copper spray (spraying the 2nd after the 1st had dried) after the 2nd coat drys, spray a 3rd coat, and install with the gaskes "tacky" and then torque the heads down.. (make sure your using new bolts.. the old ones are streched out, and will not stay tight) I then normally let it set overnight, then recheck my torque on the head bolts.. hasn't failed me as of yet..