Best source for an alternator

[KI4FKW]

I was successful in rebuilding one of my alternators. The other, a previous owner had no clue what he was doing and left pieces out of the alternator....some weren’t included in the rebuild kit. Then, I cracked the rear case.

So, screw it. What is a trusted source for a new alternator?

 

[acthomp781]

Hillbilly Wizard out of PA. The last time I looked he had cores and rebuilt ones for sale. I have also seen the case halves on a big auction site and the rebuild kits on the same site.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I have also seen the case halves on a big auction site and the rebuild kits on the same site.

"A big auction site"..... a big... acution site..... Hmmmmmm.

Oh! You mean eBAY! Yeah, that must mean eBay!

Hey, just in case you were not clear on it, you can say eBay all you want. It's not a forbidden word. You just can't link to an auction, on eBay or anywhere else.

ebay.

 

[Keith_J]

The other online giant has reproductions. But caveat emptor, they are reproductions. Overhauling your existing stock is the best bet.

 

[KI4FKW]

I have the parts to overhaul, I just need the rear casing.

 

[cucvrus]

http://leidyrepair.com/

This is a local guy he does great work. He rebuilds stuff for PARNG and has been doing all my work on electrical. Fair pricing. Just sharing information. Do as you wish. Have a Great Day.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I have the parts to overhaul, I just need the rear casing.

It's a pretty common alternator. Nothing special about it, except a few extra insulators to make it isolated ground. You should be able to find a cheap one at a junkyard.

 

[dependable]

It's a Delco Remy 27 SI, 100amp, that may help you out. You can still get rebuilt non-isolated ground versions at auto parts store if you can't find a used one. They were used in a lot of Cadillacs of the era.

The new reproductions have poor quality control, like most of the junk where they are made, I bought a couple to put on shelf to save time (have CUCVs in work fleet). They did not work for very long in service, rebuilt or home rebuilt originals are better.

 

[ehuppert]

It's a Delco Remy 27 SI, 100amp, that may help you out. You can still get rebuilt non-isolated ground versions at auto parts store if you can't find a used one. They were used in a lot of Cadillacs of the era.

The new reproductions have poor quality control, like most of the junk where they are made, I bought a couple to put on shelf to save time (have CUCVs in work fleet). They did not work for very long in service, rebuilt or home rebuilt originals are better.

AMSCO Valley Forge out of NY. Wholesale to shops only, but we use them for oddball stuff.

 

[KI4FKW]

I found some on there, and two on ebay, but none seem to the have the hole for the negative terminal (next to the vents for the rectifier).

 

[Keith_J]

The isolated ground is a modified non-drive end housing. Meaning you can modify any 27SI to isolated ground.

Now food for thought..you can use any SAE J180 alternator. Plenty of Leece Neville alternators out there with isolated grounds. Just need to find the right pulley and do a little wiring change. Yes, some have a lamp driver circuit. But you also need to upgrade the battery wire as stock is 8 AWG with remote battery voltage sense while the Leece Neville units rely on heavier battery wire.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I found some on there, and two on ebay, but none seem to the have the hole for the negative terminal (next to the vents for the rectifier).

I seem to remember reading that some folks have drilled their own hole there.

 

[KI4FKW]

I just broke down and bought one from a user here. As simple as drilling a hole sounds, I'd turn it in to a catastrophe. I'm just ready to be done with this alternator crap.

 

[Tow4]

There is more to it than just drilling a hole.

In a non-isolated ground alternator, after you drill the hole, you have to mill the boss the negative heat sink sits on down flush to the casting. Clearances are close and not doing this could cause a short because the rectifier needs to be parallel to the end casting. Then you need insulators for the B- stud that goes in the negative heat sink and through the end casting, and the B- screw on the regulator because the regulator in an isolated ground alternator has to be isolated from the case ground also. Last, you need a lead to run from the negative heat sink to the B- screw on the regulator.

If you look at my rebuild thread (link in my signature) there are pictures and descriptions of how an isolated ground alternator is assembled. Take time to familiarize yourself with the alternator. You probably have enough parts from your various rebuild attempts to put together a working alternator.

P.S. If your driver's side alternator is isolated ground, you can put it on the passenger side and use a normal negative ground alternator on the driver's side. only the passenger alternator needs to be isolated ground.

 

[Russ Knight]

74M35A2

 

[Sharecropper]

Guys I have been full circle on this alternator thing, and here's what I have done for alternators for my P400 build -

Because I am fully dressing the P400 without taking anything off my running 6.2, I purchased a couple of used OEM alts from a vendor on this site with the intention of rebuilding them myself. Well they came in, and they were awfully nasty, so I immediately opened the case of the first one to inspect. The inside was toast. The rotor looked like it had been welded and the stator was rusted beyond recognition. No way I was going to fool with these things for my P400 engine build. So I began to explore online for rebuilt Delco 27Si units. Most sources for rebuilt units were using cheap Chinese stuff, and I did not want any part of that. But then I discovered Wilson in Daphne, Alabama. Wilson does not just "rebuild" starters and alternators, they "remanufacture" them with all new rotors and stators and internal parts. I called Wilson and spoke with a fellow named Phil in technical service, and he stated that they have remanufactured Delco 27Si units in stock and sell through NAPA and other outlets. The part number for the Delco 27Si isolated ground unit was 90-01-4277. I called NAPA, and they priced out a pair for $203.56 each with core exchange. I ordered 2 and was happy to exchange the boat anchors. I picked them up today. The Wilson units are top notch and each came with a document showing the test data. My units each tested to produce 115 amps. http://www.wilsonautoelectric.com/

The Wilson units came with no fan or pulley, and I destroyed the original pulleys trying to get them off the boat anchors. So I needed new fans and pulleys. So I purchased brand new USA-made fans and pulleys from Summit, manufactured by Tuff Stuff Performance in Cleveland, Ohio https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/ . They fit perfectly and the zinc cad plating adds a nice touch. Tuff Stuff item #7600AD. $23.99 each on Summit.

Hope this helps. By the way, I have 2 complete rebuild kits available if anybody is interested.

 

[KI4FKW]

I was able to successfully rebuild one with one of your kits. The other revealed that a previous owner had attempted a rebuild without knowing what he was doing, which explains why he sneakily disconnected the alternator and sold the truck. I was rebuilding it correctly when I cracked the rear case. So, I just ordered a whole alternator from another member. I should be good to go with a few spare parts left over in a few days.

There is more to it than just drilling a hole.

In a non-isolated ground alternator, after you drill the hole, you have to mill the boss the negative heat sink sits on down flush to the casting. Clearances are close and not doing this could cause a short because the rectifier needs to be parallel to the end casting. Then you need insulators for the B- stud that goes in the negative heat sink and through the end casting, and the B- screw on the regulator because the regulator in an isolated ground alternator has to be isolated from the case ground also. Last, you need a lead to run from the negative heat sink to the B- screw on the regulator.

If you look at my rebuild thread (link in my signature) there are pictures and descriptions of how an isolated ground alternator is assembled. Take time to familiarize yourself with the alternator. You probably have enough parts from your various rebuild attempts to put together a working alternator.

P.S. If your driver's side alternator is isolated ground, you can put it on the passenger side and use a normal negative ground alternator on the driver's side. only the passenger alternator needs to be isolated ground.