Best way to check prime?

[cwc]

The click of the IP solenoid is actually pretty hard to hear over the click of the GP relay. You can feel it to tell if it is clicking. There is discussion about the IP solenoid in various threads, e.g. search: "scored a hmmwv m998" for a good discussion. It is somewhat difficult to connect the connector to the IP, so it could be on crooked and not making contact. You could try battery power directly to it with everything else off, to make it easier to hear.

If you are not getting smoke from the exhaust then it is not the glowplugs keeping it from starting, it is lack of fuel. If it were just the glowplugs it would blow an increasing amount of smoke while cranking and then as stated probably start, or at least you would know it was getting fuel by the cloud of smoke.

If the glowplugs are all reading open circuit (not 0.0 ohms but "OL" for open loop or something similar) they probably all burned up from the PCB/EESS being bad...lots of threads on that topic, and sticky info also I believe. Check out the info on adding a grounding harness. 2.0 ohms is about right for cold glowplugs....

 

[Bucho]

The click of the IP solenoid is actually pretty hard to hear over the click of the GP relay. You can feel it to tell if it is clicking. There is discussion about the IP solenoid in various threads, e.g. search: "scored a hmmwv m998" for a good discussion. It is somewhat difficult to connect the connector to the IP, so it could be on crooked and not making contact. You could try battery power directly to it with everything else off, to make it easier to hear.

If you are not getting smoke from the exhaust then it is not the glowplugs keeping it from starting, it is lack of fuel. If it were just the glowplugs it would blow an increasing amount of smoke while cranking and then as stated probably start, or at least you would know it was getting fuel by the cloud of smoke.

If the glowplugs are all reading open circuit (not 0.0 ohms but "OL" for open loop or something similar) they probably all burned up from the PCB/EESS being bad...lots of threads on that topic, and sticky info also I believe. Check out the info on adding a grounding harness. 2.0 ohms is about right for cold glowplugs....

I will go research.
Just out of curiosity, if the IP is getting power, which it is since I tested it with a light, and the solenoid was bad which could happen. Where would I put the jump wire to so that I was bypassing the soleniod? I haven't done much research on the IP but I saw was the two wire out of the top, one more towards the front and other towards the middle.

 

[cwc]

The wire to the IP solenoid is 54A.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I will go research.
Just out of curiosity, if the IP is getting power, which it is since I tested it with a light, and the solenoid was bad which could happen. Where would I put the jump wire to so that I was bypassing the soleniod? I haven't done much research on the IP but I saw was the two wire out of the top, one more towards the front and other towards the middle.

you can't bypass the solenoid if it's bad...if it's bad, it's bad.
the cold advance is not required to start the truck...the fuel cutoff solenoid is, if that goes bad, you only have one option...replace it. Your truck won't start because it won't allow fuel to flow.

 

[Bucho]

you can't bypass the solenoid if it's bad...if it's bad, it's bad.
the cold advance is not required to start the truck...the fuel cutoff solenoid is, if that goes bad, you only have one option...replace it. Your truck won't start because it won't allow fuel to flow.

Thanks makes sense. I will look into it tomorrow evening. I hope I get this locked soon.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

There is no way your getting 0 ohms on a glow plug...brand new from the box you may get 1.5 or even higher.
you need to pull the plugs from the engine and test them on the bench...

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

If you want to know if your solenoid is at least clicking....pull the front right side wire on the IJ pump, turn start switch to run, pull the plug cover back to expose the wire lead, touch that lead to the post inside the plug on IJ pump and see if you here a clicking of the solenoid as you apply it and remove it.

the tell tale sign your solenoid is bad is with one IJ line unscrewed from the injector, when cranking you should get fuel.
you only need to do 1 injector....I do this at least once a week In the shop on new motors and fuel filter changes.
on new motors that usually means I have a brand new fuel tank, fuel lines and dry fuel pump and filter assy all the way to the injector pump...I can get the truck started in approx 3-4mins

 

[Bucho]

If you want to know if your solenoid is at least clicking....pull the front right side wire on the IJ pump, turn start switch to run, pull the plug cover back to expose the wire lead, touch that lead to the post inside the plug on IJ pump and see if you here a clicking of the solenoid as you apply it and remove it.

the tell tale sign your solenoid is bad is with one IJ line unscrewed from the injector, when cranking you should get fuel.
you only need to do 1 injector....I do this at least once a week In the shop on new motors and fuel filter changes.
on new motors that usually means I have a brand new fuel tank, fuel lines and dry fuel pump and filter assy all the way to the injector pump...I can get the truck started in approx 3-4mins

As I have mentioned I have completely removed a line and can't get anything. Thanks for your help, I will give that test a try. Is it possible to have a soleniod bad but the injector pump still be good or is it likely bad soleniod and bad pump? Can Injector pumps be rebuilt or do I just need to by new?

 

[papakb]

Be extremely careful with what you read, even in military technical manuals. You have to keep in mind that this particular control box has changed half a dozen times and the manuals weren't always rewritten to accommodate the latest variants. This holds true for the parts manuals too. That and we haven't got a clue as to the publication date of the manual you've got in your hands. The publication date is NOT always the date that appears on the front cover either. If it is an original manual that front cover date will be correct but any subsequent publications will have their actual date of publication on a page near the back of the manual.

Here's a front cover shot dates 1986:



Here's the back page with the actual publication date of 1993:

 

[Bucho]

Be extremely careful with what you read, even in military technical manuals. You have to keep in mind that this particular control box has changed half a dozen times and the manuals weren't always rewritten to accommodate the latest variants. This holds true for the parts manuals too. That and we haven't got a clue as to the publication date of the manual you've got in your hands. The publication date is NOT always the date that appears on the front cover either. If it is an original manual that front cover date will be correct but any subsequent publications will have their actual date of publication on a page near the back of the manual.

Here's a front cover shot dates 1986:



Here's the back page with the actual publication date of 1993:

I have been working off the TM that is on here and the other info is from research on this forum. Pretty much, this place is my knowledge base. I have not bothered to check other places, I feel this is my best source. None the less I will keep that in mind. That is also why I have spent so much time asking and posting here. Still haven't got this, but I haven't been able to do anything since Sunday. The plan is to get back to it this evening.