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Best way to clean an 002/003 fuel tank

Light in the Dark

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One of the machines I just received, the tank looks like **** on the inside. I am assuming I can use some sort of 'aggregate' with liquid and remove it from the machine and simply shake the **** out of it. Anyone have a better idea? Does CLR chew through the crap that deposits in these tanks? It almost looks like rust, but its pretty bad. Thanks
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
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Jackson ms
I put some soapy water and a hand full of stainless steel nuts in the tank and strapped it to a small trailer and hooked it to a 4 wheeler and told my youngest nephew to go take it for a ride around the yard. After 30 min or so I turned the tank over and sent him back out.

The inside was much better after a thorough rinse. I finished up with a pressure washing. That had limited success because of where the baffle is located in the tank.

On a side note it was a pain to get all of the nuts out of the tank but that did work better than anything I tried.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jbayer

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St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
I was just about to do the same thing on a 809 fuel tank. The only thing is it must be washed with a good product that cuts the fuel oil off the metal first.
I used TSP-(TRISODIUM PHOSPHATE) cleaner. Partially filled the tank with HOT water, added TSP, Strapped to my cargo carrier, drove to the local car wash, used the high pressure wand to finish it off. Spic and Span.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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All good ideas. We used pool cleaner and a spade full of pea gravel. Then we sent the tank on a contact mission, in the deserts of White Sands. We then washed it with JP- 8. Looked good.
 

steelypip

Active member
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Charlottesville, VA
I threw granite gravel in my 002 fuel tank and shook vigorously with some stale gasoline when I cleaned mine out. That got the worst of the oily gunk off the bottom (sides were fine). Dawn and hot water completed the washdown.
 

Light in the Dark

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Should the fuel float assembly be removed for this? I dont know how fragile it is, having not had to remove one yet.
 

jamawieb

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Location
Ripley/TN
I use soap and a pressure washer. I've had some tanks so bad that the diesel gel into a tar. I had to toss the cans because I couldn't get the tar out with anything I used and I tried acids with no success. The 003a tanks are a pain because of the baffle but if you remove the aux fuel float, you can get to the other side of the baffles.
 

Bmxenbrett

Member
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NY
You guys should try useing a length of chain to clean the tank out. No risk of leaving any scrubbing material in the tank. Last 275gal drum i cleaned out i tied a string to the chain for easy removal.
 

Chainbreaker

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Oregon
I just went through a complete tank cleaning process as I recently found a VERY gummy black tar like substance completely blocking the tank strainer mesh even though I had used a BioCide plus other diesel additive treatments in fuel. In addition to cleaning I was planning on lining the inside of tank with a tank coating material. So this is what I did in hopes of getting it REALLY REALLY clean:

1. Remove all tank fittings except fuel cap and then plug them closed; you will need (4) 1/4" NPT pipe plugs, (1) 1-1/4" NPT pipe plug, (1) 1-1/2" NPT pipe plug; black iron fittings work fine for this purpose.

2. I used (1) gallon of Krud Cutter (advertised to cut tar and grease even on BBQ grills) and filled up with hot water and shook up and let sit 24 hrs. I put the tank cap in the closed fording position and also turned tank upside down to make sure top of tank would get the treatment when I repositioned tank every few hours. You could substitute your favorite degreaser cleaner (ex: TSP solution, or whatever works)

3. I then removed all pipe plugs and drained out KC solution then used a pressure washer with one of those rotating tips that is used to clean driveways, decks, etc. It rotates at a very high RPM and uses a small jet to produce a very high powered effect. After removing the fuel strainer I was able to slide the wand tip through the openings of the cage that holds the fuel strainer in place. It blasted a lot of gooey crud away. I was also able to fit the wand tip down through the removed fuel gauge opening and angle it all around.

4. After getting a lot of crud out I did another cleaning with hot water with some dawn poured in the tank and then blasted it again with pressure washer. Lots & lots of foaming suds! Then rinse well.

5. I then filled tank about 1/4 full of coarse river sand (the kind with large grains of sand and small buckshot size gravel and then strapped it to the rear wheel of my tractor and drove it around our property for about 1/2 hour then emptied out sand. Bottom and sides of tank were all shiny and silver. The sand I emptied out smelled of diesel, so even after all the above washing/blasting there was still stuff the sand rubbed off. The sand treatment got a lot of stuff that everything else missed. I then did another final power washer and rinsed well.

6. Re-plugged tank and I then poured in 2 gal of water and added (1) gal of Phosphoric Acid to make a 33% solution (25-50% solution is recommended for neutralizing rust) and let that soak for 24 hours (rotating tank with solution inside on all 6 sides every few hours to insure the solution worked everywhere. It turns any remaining surface rust into a black rust proof coating (forget the name of chemical process). Rust on underside of fuel cap turned black.

7. Rinse, rinse and rinse and do a final rinse with acetone to get all water out.

I was planning on coating the inside of tank with a product called Red Coat. The instructions cautioned when using this product on a diesel tank you have to insure ALL DIESEL RESIDUE is gone. The manufacture mentions that Diesel stored overtime leaves a paraffin coating on metal and the only way to remove it is by sand blasting. So I had hoped my rotating power wash wand in combination with the rotating river sand treatment would scrape off any gummy paraffin residue. Manufacture warned that if you use their product on a diesel tank and don't get all the residue off the Red Coat material will NOT adhere properly and will eventually release over time and can cause problems with fuel system (pumps, injection pump, injectors) so they said "use at your own risk" on diesel tanks! Well even after all that cleaning and seeing a clean silver bottom and sides I stuck my finger through the strainer cage and was able to touch the underside of the tank top and it was STILL GUMMY TACKY feeling. I tried using mineral spirits and even acetone and nothing would touch the gummy stuff (paraffin) still adhering to underside of tank top. So I had to abandon any thought of lining the tank with Red Coat. Regardless, I had a really clean tank but did not want to risk having the plastic liner coating detach and be fighting fuel contamination problems down the road. So I just cleaned up all the fittings (tank gauge, aux fuel level switch using emery cloth and mineral spirits) and put it back together and called it good. I will probably have to do this every 4 years or so due to our wet winter climate and the fact our diesel has biodiesel (B5-B20) in it. I recall reading somewhere that Biodiesel can become corrosive when condensation gets mixed in with fuel over time no matter what fuel additives and stabilizers are used.
 

Pnolette

New member
2
5
3
Location
Prattville Alabama
I just went through a complete tank cleaning process as I recently found a VERY gummy black tar like substance completely blocking the tank strainer mesh even though I had used a BioCide plus other diesel additive treatments in fuel. In addition to cleaning I was planning on lining the inside of tank with a tank coating material. So this is what I did in hopes of getting it REALLY REALLY clean:

1. Remove all tank fittings except fuel cap and then plug them closed; you will need (4) 1/4" NPT pipe plugs, (1) 1-1/4" NPT pipe plug, (1) 1-1/2" NPT pipe plug; black iron fittings work fine for this purpose.

2. I used (1) gallon of Krud Cutter (advertised to cut tar and grease even on BBQ grills) and filled up with hot water and shook up and let sit 24 hrs. I put the tank cap in the closed fording position and also turned tank upside down to make sure top of tank would get the treatment when I repositioned tank every few hours. You could substitute your favorite degreaser cleaner (ex: TSP solution, or whatever works)

3. I then removed all pipe plugs and drained out KC solution then used a pressure washer with one of those rotating tips that is used to clean driveways, decks, etc. It rotates at a very high RPM and uses a small jet to produce a very high powered effect. After removing the fuel strainer I was able to slide the wand tip through the openings of the cage that holds the fuel strainer in place. It blasted a lot of gooey crud away. I was also able to fit the wand tip down through the removed fuel gauge opening and angle it all around.

4. After getting a lot of crud out I did another cleaning with hot water with some dawn poured in the tank and then blasted it again with pressure washer. Lots & lots of foaming suds! Then rinse well.

5. I then filled tank about 1/4 full of coarse river sand (the kind with large grains of sand and small buckshot size gravel and then strapped it to the rear wheel of my tractor and drove it around our property for about 1/2 hour then emptied out sand. Bottom and sides of tank were all shiny and silver. The sand I emptied out smelled of diesel, so even after all the above washing/blasting there was still stuff the sand rubbed off. The sand treatment got a lot of stuff that everything else missed. I then did another final power washer and rinsed well.

6. Re-plugged tank and I then poured in 2 gal of water and added (1) gal of Phosphoric Acid to make a 33% solution (25-50% solution is recommended for neutralizing rust) and let that soak for 24 hours (rotating tank with solution inside on all 6 sides every few hours to insure the solution worked everywhere. It turns any remaining surface rust into a black rust proof coating (forget the name of chemical process). Rust on underside of fuel cap turned black.

7. Rinse, rinse and rinse and do a final rinse with acetone to get all water out.

I was planning on coating the inside of tank with a product called Red Coat. The instructions cautioned when using this product on a diesel tank you have to insure ALL DIESEL RESIDUE is gone. The manufacture mentions that Diesel stored overtime leaves a paraffin coating on metal and the only way to remove it is by sand blasting. So I had hoped my rotating power wash wand in combination with the rotating river sand treatment would scrape off any gummy paraffin residue. Manufacture warned that if you use their product on a diesel tank and don't get all the residue off the Red Coat material will NOT adhere properly and will eventually release over time and can cause problems with fuel system (pumps, injection pump, injectors) so they said "use at your own risk" on diesel tanks! Well even after all that cleaning and seeing a clean silver bottom and sides I stuck my finger through the strainer cage and was able to touch the underside of the tank top and it was STILL GUMMY TACKY feeling. I tried using mineral spirits and even acetone and nothing would touch the gummy stuff (paraffin) still adhering to underside of tank top. So I had to abandon any thought of lining the tank with Red Coat. Regardless, I had a really clean tank but did not want to risk having the plastic liner coating detach and be fighting fuel contamination problems down the road. So I just cleaned up all the fittings (tank gauge, aux fuel level switch using emery cloth and mineral spirits) and put it back together and called it good. I will probably have to do this every 4 years or so due to our wet winter climate and the fact our diesel has biodiesel (B5-B20) in it. I recall reading somewhere that Biodiesel can become corrosive when condensation gets mixed in with fuel over time no matter what fuel additives and stabilizers are used.
 

Pnolette

New member
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5
3
Location
Prattville Alabama
I too had the black gooey substance on the bottom of the diesel fuel tank. I tried everything from brake parts cleaner, acetone, mineral spirits, paint thinner and nothing broke it down. Then I thought of my time owning a paint business. I went out and got two gallons of Methyl Ethel Keytone (MEK). Put it in the tank and let it set overnight. Next morning it was beautiful! All the tar substance was completely broken down. I took my siphon and cleaned it out. The tank was beautiful!
Just wanted to share a success story.
 

Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
I too had the black gooey substance on the bottom of the diesel fuel tank. I tried everything from brake parts cleaner, acetone, mineral spirits, paint thinner and nothing broke it down. Then I thought of my time owning a paint business. I went out and got two gallons of Methyl Ethel Keytone (MEK). Put it in the tank and let it set overnight. Next morning it was beautiful! All the tar substance was completely broken down. I took my siphon and cleaned it out. The tank was beautiful!
Just wanted to share a success story.
MEK is almost the best thing invented since sliced bread! I use it to clear out traces of oil before laying in fiberglass on buckets (bucket truck buckets). THANKS for the info about how it works on cleaning diesel. I have one tank on my M936 that is really gummy. So much so that if it ever cools off in North Carolina - I am pulling that tank for a thorough cleaning.
 

Bmxenbrett

Member
602
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Location
NY
I like useing chain to clean the bigger stuff out of fuel tanks. This way you know it's all out.
For the smaller rust I have used electrolysis very successfully. A generator I did this to last year is still running at our property.
 
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