Best Way to Fix Rust Holes?

[rneely]

My Deuce has some rust that has eaten completely through and the holes are no bigger than one inch other ares are just rust and no hole yet. I want to patch the holes, I haven't done any metal repair in years, what is today's best way? A welded in patch or a fiberglass/bondo type filler or some other new technology.

 

[AceHigh]

Apparently the Army thinks it is just fine to pop rivet a plate on and seal the deal with mass quantities of CARC.

 

[BKubu]

It really depends upon the outcome you expect. Do you want a show quality finish? If so, then metal is really the only option. Do you want it to look motorpool? Fiberglass/bondo and pop-riveted patches (as stated by ACEHIGH) is acceptable. I have seen some really shoddy military rust repairs and others that looked close to profession.

 

[99dodge1500]

Ive got a 1947 Ford rat rod with alot of rust so I know a few things about this, Like BKubu said it depends on how you want it to look, I found it easier to patch it with metal, and then do some very thin bondo on it, and it turns out nice and will last longer then mesh and bondo would.

 

[vinny-socom1]

just my but if you use metal you will have to apply corrosion protection to the back side or it will rust the same as a bond repair. A real good repair is difficult in some areas and requires alot of prep.

Vinny

 

[Skip]

Rust repair

If you have a mig, I would just weld in a washer fill the hole and then if needed add a thin coat of plastic filler.

 

[DonMn]

As other stated before new metal is the best option, be prepared to cut out more metal than the rust hole esp if you are going to weld it, probably have to cut it out about an inch around the rust hole. But there are other options nowdays instead of welding, about the last ten years body shops have been using adhesives for bonding panels such as door skins instead of welding. It's called 3M AutoMix Panel Bonding adhesive, it's made for bodypanels only, nothing structural. The biggest downfall to using the product is you need a special caulk gun to use it, the 3M one is very expensive. But I'm sure someone makes a cheap chaulk gun for it by now.

If you are going to go the body filler and screen route, you should at least use a product like Dura Glass, it's a body filler thats main base is made out of fiberglass. I don't recommend going this route, but using Dura Glass will last a lot longer than standard body filler.

Don

 

[a68cudas]

Cut out bad then weld in new metal patch

 

[Lawrence of Arabia]

Rust is like cancer. As stated in above thread. Be sure to cut out more than enough around the affected area, just as they do with cancer.

 

[airmech3839]

I have same issue in my cab corners.....I plan on trying to weld in after cutting out rough stuff....dont have a welder and need to get some experience outside of the 30 min course they taught in A&P school....theory mostly....

 

[Scarecrow1]

I agree with Cuda For the long run it's the best way. For a great substitute to welding and cutting I would pick up a product called Waterweld by JB Weld. Dont be fooled by what you may first think this stuff is the best cold weld there is .... You can patch holes in just about anything and it stays fixed . You can sand and paint it to match and never know it's there . My son put a hole in his transmission pan last year and its still not leaking after all his abuse. Its a bit high for a large project ,but for what your looking to fix it would be perfect . All you do is prep the surface and blend the weld and apply and let dry for about an hour, sand to match the surrounding area prime paint & and that's it . Walmart has the best price by the way .........

 

[hndrsonj]

Personally depending on where the rust is, i'd just replace the panel/cab/whatever. If you can't or won't, cut it out and weld in new.

 

[twright]

the thing about the 3m is you were right the first time you have to use there gun all of the people that make it has to have a differant gun I own a body shop in rockmart and I must have 6 or 8 guns the only tupe I use now is the 3m just because I would have to buy another gun just to use it.
AEC Retired Tony

 

[cessnatwin]

these guys are right, cut it out, prep it coat it at least do a decent plate weld over it and puddy it in and it will never be noticed.

 

[drdstny]

Lots of good advice in this thread. The best advice, though, was the question of if you wanted a show-quality finish or just structural repair. Make sure you're true to your goals and follow the advice that comes closest to that goal.

My opinion is that first you have to prevent the rust spreading. I like a product called POR-15. Follow the directions, and when you're done the rusty area will be black.

The rest will be hard to describe without pictures, but I'll give it a shot.

If you THEN grind away the hole, it'll be a bigger hole for a short while, but you should see all shiny steel pretty soon. Try and open the hole up into a square, then cut a piece of steel a bit bigger than the hole. Use cardboard to create a pattern that is exactly like the hole you want to repair, then transfer that pattern with a Sharpie to your new steel.

Flange the metal, using either an attachment to your air hammer or a simple flanging Vise-Grip. The "embossed" or raised area of the steel should be exactly the same size & shape as your hole. The "lip" should be something like 1/8" -1/4" in several (if not all) places.

Now drill a small (1/8" or smaller) hole in the center of the new steel. Drive in a long sheet metal screw into this hole, but only about 1/4" - 1/2". Using the screw as a handle, insert the patch metal into the hole (sideways, crossways, or whatever works for you), then pull the patch metal until it fills the hole. Using your welder, put in a couple small tacks to hold it in place, then weld in the entire seam. A MIG welder with flux-core wire works really well for this in most conditions.

Remove the screw, weld up the little hole, then grind the welds until the whole area is nice and flat/flush. Repeat-weld as necessary to fill in the gaps, then when you're happy with the repair, treat the bare steel with your preferred Product (POR-15 works here too).

Then VIOLIN! Paint to match. If you do it right, nobody will know you did it and you won't be able to remember it had been done.

 

[emr]

Alot of good advise, and a question we all have either learned to deal with or are going to, I have felt after years of losing my shirt to poor unscrupulous body shops, that when entering the military vehicle hobby, i would rather have a blown motor than bad rust ...A motor can go in and out in hours, body work when dealing with rust is enough to freak me out, Make sure u cut enough out, if sanblasting, blast your brains out, If u can keep your vehicle under a shed for storage it will last sooo much longer , for all the work u do, Good luck, its a fun process.....

 

[papercu]

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