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Best way to lift front suspension???

Scooter_Mann

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Muscatine, Iowa
I am in the process of bobbing a M35A2. I have Freightliner truck air suspension under the rear. Without air I am 1" taller in the rear. By the time I air the bags I am going to be 5-6" low in the front. What is the best way to lift the front suspension? Looking for ideas. Perhaps drop the shackle mounts down under the frame? I really don't want to use lift blocks unless I have to.
 

wehring

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Location
Angleton, TX
Looks great

Looks great so far. I am looking for a Freightliner set up to put under a 5 ton I am bobbing.

Caveman had some +5" springs made for his bobbers. Most any commercial spring company can make springs for you. STAY AWAY FROM NATIONAL SPRING IN CA. They make good springs but their customer service is terrible. Atlas spring is a good choice.

Justin Wehring
979 997 3112
 

wehring

Active member
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Location
Angleton, TX
cross member

Not to get into your business but you may want to think about adding a cross member between the spring hangars. The frame will flex and possibly crack over time.

Justin Wehring
979 997 3112
 

Scooter_Mann

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Muscatine, Iowa
Not to get into your business but you may want to think about adding a cross member between the spring hangars. The frame will flex and possibly crack over time.

Justin Wehring
979 997 3112

Justin,

Do you mean a crossmember (rail to rail) under the engine in the front? Or are you looking at the frame in the rear? The plan is to take 3' off the front of the box and to shorten the rear of the frame to end it in the original location in reference to the back of the box.

I have seen several guys drop the spring mounts down under the main frame, but I like the idea of re-arched springs much better. If anyone knows of a vendor in the E Iowa area... please let me know.
 

wehring

Active member
1,375
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38
Location
Angleton, TX
rail to rail in th rear

Sorry for being unclear. In the rear where you added the air kit. The front hangars of the Freightliner kit are in a location that is not supported with a rail-to-rail x-member. They are boxed with xmembers in front of and behind but this will not give you the strength of a xmember at the hangars. Truthfully, this may be a non-issue but since you are in the middle of a build it is an easy time to make any changes that may gain a better safety margin.

I am not sure how much force +5" will add to the moment arm on the front springs. Good question but the front hanger of the front springs (under the engine) are located at a very strong x-member. I would not be too concerned about the rearched springs but I agree with you that the hangars need to remain in the factory location.

Justin Wehring
979 997 3112
 

Scooter_Mann

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Muscatine, Iowa
When the 3' comes out of the back end of the frame the original crossmember will be relocated at the end of the frame. I will be removing the one second up from the rear. Good idea... we can reposition that one between the front hangers and reutilize it. Thanks!
 

bubba_got_you

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st,petersburg Florida
I was looking in to a lift job once and they told me to just have 2 leafs added and have them re-arched and it would give me the 4"i was looking for. As for a price I would say it depends on the shop. It was going to run me $800 for me to get the springs on my m37 made in to 4” lift springs. But i sold my m37 before I had it done. Though I am about to get the rear springs on my gmc done after finish changing the motor. your truck is looking good by the way! i would kill for air ride. [thumbzup]
 
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thegreenman76

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Location
las vegas nv
I had a lifted super duty and I had bought springs from atlas. They were shipped with the wrong arch, and then they started to sag under an empty bed. I will never buy springs from them again!:mad:
 

hndrsonj

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Cheyenne, WY
I had springs re-arched to a 4" lift on a Chevy truck. It was just under $400. Depends on the shop.
 
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