Best way to wire up a RAK15 ration heater?

AttackMule

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I bought 2 cables from Cole Parmer they still have them in stock!! I will have to get into my emails; have the drawings for both plans.
Two types: one has the straight plug the more expensive one has the 90.
 

Rusty Loads

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I think one of my trucks has the 3 pin outlet; my Zeppelin shelter has them I'm almost sure. The ones from Cole-Parmer show a 3 pin to 2 pin and other variations...I will need to confirm what I've got but finding the hot wire is a good start. Wasn't that one cable mentioned over $300.00USD!!! special military price! Thanks for info.
 

Storm 51

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The A pin is 24+ VDC. The B pin is ground the C pin is unused.

Wm Perry has the connectors (I believe the part number was given earlier in this thread, if not I can post it this weekend). It is easy to make your cable(s), which allows you to customize the length to your needs. Unless the new cables are less than $20 to $30 dollars, it is better to make your own, IMO.

The cable is either 14-3 or 14-2 (your choice) that you can get at any hardware store.

Good Luck with your project!
 

AttackMule

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Following are answers to questions i had about the cables used to power RAK15 and a POC for the cables. They will make them for you; they are not cheap; they are of great quality. i have two and connected them to surplus NATO single pin connectors. I hope to post the pdf drawings later:

1) There is a possible option for a lead we could supply (AZ9121). It has a right angled connector on one end and is unterminated on the other, you can then attached his plug of choice to it. The attached drawing clearly identifies +ve and -ve DC. However this is a custom made-to-order cable so would have a long -lead time and we would have to price up accordingly so would be a more expensive option.

2) So the cheaper and easier option would be to supply our standard AZ9224 (stock item with 4 week lead time) and just remove one end socket to provide the connector end but then the flexible option you need.
a. We can either quote you for the standard cable and let you cut one socket off, or we can cut it off here and cost up for the cable and additional manual work.

Some points to be aware with regard to the RAK unit use that you may or may not be aware of at this time.

1) RAK units do not have internal over-current protection (i.e. they don’t have a fuse in them.) so over-current protection must be achieved externally.
2) Typically our customers achieve this using the vehicles fuse box and a designated socket for the RAK, but it could also be a fuse in the plug, or an inline fuse in the cable.
3) The RAK15 draws a nominal current of approximately 15amps, so the fuse should be rated a little bit higher than this to provide adequate protection but to avoid blowing the fuse during normal protection.
o The RAK30 draws a nominal current of approximately 30amps, same advise applies with regard to fuse rating above this level.

Best regards

Simon

Simon Cook
United Kingdom & Ireland, Northern & Eastern Europe Sales Manager
Bibby Scientific Limited
Stuart - Techne - Jenway – Electrothermal - PCRmax
Beacon Road, Stone, Staffordshire, ST15 0SA.
m: +44 (0)7798 651411
e: Simon.Cook@bibby-scientific.com
w: www.bibby-scientific.com
 

AttackMule

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Thanks for posting that. I'm slowly learning about these connectors.
I have two sets of plans for the cables—one for the 90 and one for the straight connector. They are in pdf and i can’t figure how to post them.

here is a great link to their website; includes part numbers and manual downloads

http://www.electrothermal.com/adminimages/ET_RAK_Booklet_SEPT16(1).pdf

i have posted 2 pics of the plans now i hope they appeared ; can some tell me how to post pdf?
 

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Rusty Loads

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I've got the RAK/4 hooked up to a SINGCARS power supply. The /4 model has a one shot boil and has 3 indicator lights. It boiled the water but my top light is red-which according to the manual indicates a fault condition. I'm giving it 27 volts through the power supply so it's not low voltage. Any ideas out there? These models are made in England by Bibby Scientific. Thanks for any ideas. I noticed the serial number on this is 00004 so maybe it's a prototype? I'm waiting to hear from Cole-Parmer who handle these in North America. Cheers.
 

Wire Fox

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I've got the RAK/4 hooked up to a SINGCARS power supply. The /4 model has a one shot boil and has 3 indicator lights. It boiled the water but my top light is red-which according to the manual indicates a fault condition. I'm giving it 27 volts through the power supply so it's not low voltage. Any ideas out there? These models are made in England by Bibby Scientific. Thanks for any ideas. I noticed the serial number on this is 00004 so maybe it's a prototype? I'm waiting to hear from Cole-Parmer who handle these in North America. Cheers.
For clarity, I assume you're meaning RAK-15/4 and that this is the manual you're using: http://www.electrothermal.com/adminimages/M7064_RAK15_4_iss_3(2).pdf

The full statement of issues there is that a red light is triggered by a boil-dry condition, voltage issue, or that "If fault condition indicator remains on after these actions, or any other lamp sequence is evident that is not covered by tables I, II & III above, then HW&R service/ maintenance is required."

I'd first ensure that you're absolutely positive that the voltage is remaining OK while the heater is in operation and that you do not have a low volume of water in the unit. I'd then explore to make sure that the pressure relief valve is working fine, and would further go on to test the thermal control circuit that would normally protect the unit from overheating.

This TM will likely give more useful details, including parts and repair processes: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-10-7310-241-12-and-P.pdf

Edit: I realize that the TM I linked to appears to be mostly about the RAK-15/2 unit and an equivalent. Still, I believe the principals of operation and its assembly are very similar and should have a lot of commonality. Perhaps not close enough to identify exact replacement parts if needed, but close enough to help you figure out how to troubleshoot.
 
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Rusty Loads

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For clarity, I assume you're meaning RAK-15/4 and that this is the manual you're using: http://www.electrothermal.com/adminimages/M7064_RAK15_4_iss_3(2).pdf

The full statement of issues there is that a red light is triggered by a boil-dry condition, voltage issue, or that "If fault condition indicator remains on after these actions, or any other lamp sequence is evident that is not covered by tables I, II & III above, then HW&R service/ maintenance is required."

I'd first ensure that you're absolutely positive that the voltage is remaining OK while the heater is in operation and that you do not have a low volume of water in the unit. CHECK. I'd then explore to make sure that the pressure relief valve is working fine, and would further go on to test the thermal control circuit that would normally protect the unit from overheating. CHECK.

This TM will likely give more useful details, including parts and repair processes: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-10-7310-241-12-and-P.pdf

Edit: I realize that the TM I linked to appears to be mostly about the RAK-15/2 unit and an equivalent. Still, I believe the principals of operation and its assembly are very similar and should have a lot of commonality. Perhaps not close enough to identify exact replacement parts if needed, but close enough to help you figure out how to troubleshoot.
Yes,.. with the "one-shot boil" I believe the control board is different. The ebay vendor in Australia sent me a new one. So I will plug that one in and see what transpires... Thanks for your help!
 

WingCO

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Looking to wire up a RAK15 ration heater from scratch. Draws 24vdc 15 amps. 10 gauge directly from the batteries with 20 amp. inline fuse?
"Dangerous Electrician" here, I need for someone to tell me just what to do to connect my RAK15 to my M35-Duce and a Half. Of course this is a 24 volt system. I have a correct harness (eBay), I just need to know how to hook up to power. I'm dangerous because none of the statements below really make sense to me . . . Ok, well some of them make a little sense, but being a novice I'm afraid to screw it up.
 

SCSG-G4

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Post #23 (above) says 24V comes in on pin (cable) A, and ground is on pin (cable) B, with Pin C not being used. The cable that goes to pin A must have a fuse in it because the unit does not have any other protection. If that is not clear, have someone else do it.
 
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