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Big tires on little axles

Whats the best (affordable) setup?

  • 10 Bolt 8 Lug

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • Dana 44 8 lug

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • Wait for a cheap D60

    Votes: 6 28.6%
  • Buy another CUCV :D

    Votes: 8 38.1%

  • Total voters
    21

kassim503

New member
383
3
0
Location
Stony Brook, NY
Ive been wanting to lift and stick some tires (33-38's) on the 1009, but all of you 1009 guys know those 10 Bolts are pretty inadequate when it comes to wrestling big tires around on rocks, specifically the rears.

Too bad its not 2 years ago when D60 fronts littered the pull-a-part near me, and could be had for less than $100, guess the stash of 80's chevies are actually drying up? hard to believe huh

So I was thinking about converting the 3.08:1 10 bolt up front to a 8 lug with matched gears with a more common 14 bolt, or replacing both axles out of a donor truck.

Who thinks a 8 lug 10B front can handle the 37.5 HMMWV tires? I dont really mind breaking shafts and gears. But stuff along the lines of broken ball joints, spindles and housings just wouldnt work out. Y'kno the ability to limp home in 2wd and not be stuck with a 3 legged blazer in the woods would be nice. I do get hard on the throttle in mud but play pretty cautiously on rocks.
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
206
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
the stock 09 axles will handle 33" tires no problem. If you go larger like around 38"s you will want the 60 and 14 bolt. Even with 35's you can get new grear and axle shafts for the 10 bolt and be ok. also if you want to run the hummer tires there 16.5 inch. going to the 8 lug opens the the door for more rim choice.
 

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I wouldn't bother upgrading a 10 bolt when you can spend the same amount and get something better.

3/4 ton axles are very common and cheap, thats the way I would go for a low buck solution. Too bad you don't live here, I have a 6 lug Dana 44 on my parts truck you could convert to 8 lug :p
 

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,583
358
83
Location
Cheyenne, WY
Just install a 6 lug 373 geared dana 44 with 12 bolt rear out of a 70's 1/2 ton. Will be cheap and take the abuse.[thumbzup]
 

ODdave

New member
3,213
38
0
Location
lansing michigan
first off, buy another cucv, not for the axles but just to have two. second, a 3/4 ton wether it be a 44 or 8.5 will probly be fine for your app if your running a 6.2. I recently ripped a 44 apart at the ball joints with 39.5 boggers but thats in a full size long box 84 chevy & 500+ hp. and that only happend b/c i was pulling on another truck. Other than that i have only broke lockouts & axles.
 

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,583
358
83
Location
Cheyenne, WY
not being rude, but 12bolt "T" isnt worth the price of new u-bolts around here.
Another option is a SF14 bolt 9.5 6-lug, there pretty stout.
A 12 bolt is alot stronger than a 10 bolt and it is still behind a 6.2. It will not break. You are right if you can get the 14 bolt that is the best route.
 

MudderMilitia

New member
59
1
0
Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
38s are reaching the limit of the front 10-bolt. But if you drive smart, you will be ok. In the rear definitly go with a 14-bolt, full floater preferred. 6-lug semi floaters are kinda hard to find but would be a good candidate. I wouldnt convert and re-gear your front axle. Just find a 8-lug front 10-bolt or d44 (they are the same strength) with the gears you want. 4.10s are common and would be a decent gear for 37s. I would leave the front diff open as well to relieve some stress on the axle
 

area52

Active member
1,950
5
38
Location
San Bernardino CA
I have run my 35" BFG's on my front Dana 30 in my Jeep Comanche rock crawler for a few years without any problems, just gotta be careful with the skinny pedal.

I say 37" tires are fine if you are careful. If you are gonna upgrade - go all the way with one ton Dana 60/14bolt FF axles.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
Many a factory 3/4 tons came with the 8 lug gm 10 bolt front to convert yours pull it down to the spindals and swap the 8 lug rotors and spindals I would at least change to a 44 front a tad bit stronger and put good joints in the axles the lockouts will be your fuse most of the time with the joints being second and then you replace axles. Will be fine with moderate foot control as for rear if you go 8 lug then hands down the 14 bolt nothing more to say![thumbzup] If you can find a 60 front then all means get it but even then they break but far less often. I have yucon stub axles in my dana 60 under my mud truck with 39.5 boggers and in good mud have twisted the spline ends off just behind the superwinch lockouts . The 468 big block ,5000 stall with 5:13 gears put alot of twist on them. :driver:
 

ODdave

New member
3,213
38
0
Location
lansing michigan
Many a factory 3/4 tons came with the 8 lug gm 10 bolt front to convert yours pull it down to the spindals and swap the 8 lug rotors and spindals I would at least change to a 44 front a tad bit stronger and put good joints in the axles the lockouts will be your fuse most of the time with the joints being second and then you replace axles. Will be fine with moderate foot control as for rear if you go 8 lug then hands down the 14 bolt nothing more to say![thumbzup] If you can find a 60 front then all means get it but even then they break but far less often. I have yucon stub axles in my dana 60 under my mud truck with 39.5 boggers and in good mud have twisted the spline ends off just behind the superwinch lockouts . The 468 big block ,5000 stall with 5:13 gears put alot of twist on them. :driver:
the spindles are the same (as long as you have internal lockouts), however just a heads up, the brake backing plates are differnt between 1/2 & 3/4
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
ODdave thanks for adding that I see I left that out about brake backing plates. Both the corp 10 and 44 use both size spindals. Has to do with the gvw and brake opps. of the truck! have seen both ways small our large bearings! they could have saved alot of money if they would have statard sized. But thats thinking for you. :driver:
 

MudderMilitia

New member
59
1
0
Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
Many a factory 3/4 tons came with the 8 lug gm 10 bolt front to convert yours pull it down to the spindals and swap the 8 lug rotors and spindals I would at least change to a 44 front a tad bit stronger and put good joints in the axles the lockouts will be your fuse most of the time with the joints being second and then you replace axles. Will be fine with moderate foot control as for rear if you go 8 lug then hands down the 14 bolt nothing more to say![thumbzup] If you can find a 60 front then all means get it but even then they break but far less often. I have yucon stub axles in my dana 60 under my mud truck with 39.5 boggers and in good mud have twisted the spline ends off just behind the superwinch lockouts . The 468 big block ,5000 stall with 5:13 gears put alot of twist on them. :driver:
35-spline chromoly stubs?
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
Yes! 35-spline chromoly at a mud drag last summer in a heavy clay pit twisted driver side didn't break the last one but made a quarter turn just inside the lockout I run ox joints never broke one yet but are not cheap nor are the axles LOL still use the same lockout dosn't seem likely the lockout stays together.
 

scrambled

New member
125
3
0
Location
Marietta,Ga
Swapping axles from a K20 is an easy bet. I did the swap into my 73 K5. I ran 38 swampers with the 4.10 gears. i did pop a few locking hubs, but they were the older external setup. I just kept spares in the glovebox. I know it is not as strong as a D60, but the whole truck was 500 bucks. lincoln locked both ends and wheeled it many times.
 

MudderMilitia

New member
59
1
0
Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
Yes! 35-spline chromoly at a mud drag last summer in a heavy clay pit twisted driver side didn't break the last one but made a quarter turn just inside the lockout I run ox joints never broke one yet but are not cheap nor are the axles LOL still use the same lockout dosn't seem likely the lockout stays together.
Nice, I run the same stubs on my trail rig. I have drive flanges instead of lockouts though
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
I though about the drive flanges but run Spools in both axles and need the lockouts! and surprised but the superwinch lockouts are on there 2nd year :shock: warn and spicer never last for me the aluminum inners self distruct!
 
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