jwaller
Active member
- 3,724
- 19
- 38
- Location
- Columbia, SC
blinker not blinking. it will about 1% of the time otherwise it just turns on and doesnt blink. any ides?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
blinker not blinking.
- Thread starter jwaller
- Start date
Jones
Well-known member
- 2,237
- 83
- 48
- Location
- Sacramento, California
Old advice but still a place to start. Check all your grounds; flasher controller body, wiring harness ground pigtail. bulbs and tail and front turn signal housings. Make sure you're getting power into the unit to start with; a bad harness that doesn't let the controller know when it's time to go to work is always a possible. My experience is that the controllers either work or they don't. Another consideration is a bad contact in the turn signal unit on the steering column. If you have another, swap it out and see if it makes a difference.
I had a similar problem - here are a few suggestions:
1. Ground the turn signal switch housing. It will NOT work if it doesn't have a good ground. Run a ground wire from the housing to the steering column if needed.
2. Play with your headlamp switch. Turn signals will not work if you don't have stop lights or drive lights on. My signals occasionally don't work in the "stop light" position, if I wiggle the lever a bit they come on. My headlamp switch is a little sensitive to the lever position.
3. If the turn signal indicator light turns on but doesn't flash when you switch on the turn signals, you the flasher module might be going bad and need replacement. Try running a good ground wire to the flasher module first, that might solve the problem.
1. Ground the turn signal switch housing. It will NOT work if it doesn't have a good ground. Run a ground wire from the housing to the steering column if needed.
2. Play with your headlamp switch. Turn signals will not work if you don't have stop lights or drive lights on. My signals occasionally don't work in the "stop light" position, if I wiggle the lever a bit they come on. My headlamp switch is a little sensitive to the lever position.
3. If the turn signal indicator light turns on but doesn't flash when you switch on the turn signals, you the flasher module might be going bad and need replacement. Try running a good ground wire to the flasher module first, that might solve the problem.
jwaller
Active member
- 3,724
- 19
- 38
- Location
- Columbia, SC
all good things to check I'll report back fter some testing. I hope it's only a ground issue. those are cheap to fix
jwaller
Active member
- 3,724
- 19
- 38
- Location
- Columbia, SC
this what mine is doing exactly. where is this module? is this the one that is bolted ot the inner fender? I dont have any extra parts to swap as this is my only MV.houdel said:
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
In the picture above, make sure that the washer (8 ) is an internal/external tooth washer so that it penetrates the paint. The ring terminal (3) of the flasher circuit must be at a good ground for it to work.
- 34,012
- 1,809
- 113
- Location
- GA Mountains
If any of you guys are on Bjorns Christmas list, I'll tell you a secret. Expect paint piercing washers for presents. No one pushes the use of these in bolting electronics more that Bjorn and it's rightfully so. Listen to the man, he knows electronics.
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Dang, Kenny, you really pay attention to detail.
Bjorn - Another nice avatar!
Jim, Ken - I've been bitten by the ungrounded ground bug so many times my SOP when dealing with electrical components is to chuck a wire brush in my cordless drill, buff the ground ring terminal & metal it attaches to down to bright metal, coat both well with conductive grease (NOT dielectric grease as many often state in error, dielectric is an insulator) and then assemble. Gotta get a good supply of those internal/external toothed washers though.
Actually, I use copper filled anti-sieze compound for my conductive grease, excellent at preventing corrosion and the copper filling has to help electrical conductivity. I used to use silicon grease, but if you accidentally get even the tiniest amount on a part you are going to paint later, the paint will not stick unless you go through some heroic part cleaning!
Jim, Ken - I've been bitten by the ungrounded ground bug so many times my SOP when dealing with electrical components is to chuck a wire brush in my cordless drill, buff the ground ring terminal & metal it attaches to down to bright metal, coat both well with conductive grease (NOT dielectric grease as many often state in error, dielectric is an insulator) and then assemble. Gotta get a good supply of those internal/external toothed washers though.
Actually, I use copper filled anti-sieze compound for my conductive grease, excellent at preventing corrosion and the copper filling has to help electrical conductivity. I used to use silicon grease, but if you accidentally get even the tiniest amount on a part you are going to paint later, the paint will not stick unless you go through some heroic part cleaning!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
An additional note on the grounding business.
The teeth of the "star" washer bites into the metal to form a so called "gas tight" connection. You are looking for an uncontaminated metal to metal connection. The star washer will cut thru the paint and no extra coating is needed. The washer must be hardened and cad coated (image).
If the surface is cleaned to bare metal, install the electrical terminal, washer and bolt and tighten to spec. Only after that is done should a protective coat be applied.
The pressure will deform the electrical terminal and form a gas tight connection.
Another example of a gas tight connection is a crimp connection.
A gas tight connection will last for decades when performed correctly.
The teeth of the "star" washer bites into the metal to form a so called "gas tight" connection. You are looking for an uncontaminated metal to metal connection. The star washer will cut thru the paint and no extra coating is needed. The washer must be hardened and cad coated (image).
If the surface is cleaned to bare metal, install the electrical terminal, washer and bolt and tighten to spec. Only after that is done should a protective coat be applied.
The pressure will deform the electrical terminal and form a gas tight connection.
Another example of a gas tight connection is a crimp connection.
A gas tight connection will last for decades when performed correctly.
Attachments
- 34,012
- 1,809
- 113
- Location
- GA Mountains
Now that explains it. I tried using the dremel to open up one of these washers. Stuff was almost inpossible to cut with a carbide cutter. Learned another thing today Bjorn.
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
The washers usually come with NOS radio mounting kits. Kenny has supplied me with a few (he is my source for special parts 
). McMasters may carry them, but I'm not sure about the hardened part, though.
If the flasher has failed, which is very possible since the new ones are certifiable POS's, let us know and I'll post a diagram with a relay added to protect the flasher.
). McMasters may carry them, but I'm not sure about the hardened part, though.If the flasher has failed, which is very possible since the new ones are certifiable POS's, let us know and I'll post a diagram with a relay added to protect the flasher.
non-blinking blinker
I had the same problem with my Deuce dump which I use on a regular basis. Cleaned grounds and still intermittant. Sometimes would blink for a while then stop. The truck is a functional one, not restored to 100% and I needed reliability. I went to NAPA and asked for a 24 volt relay type flasher. About 16 bucks and my probems are ended. It now flashes each and every time and handles my trailer lights without problem.
I had the same problem with my Deuce dump which I use on a regular basis. Cleaned grounds and still intermittant. Sometimes would blink for a while then stop. The truck is a functional one, not restored to 100% and I needed reliability. I went to NAPA and asked for a 24 volt relay type flasher. About 16 bucks and my probems are ended. It now flashes each and every time and handles my trailer lights without problem.
I still had an intermittant problem with my flashers not working, sometimes they'd work, sometimes they wouldn't, then after driving a few miles they'd magically start working again, so I rechecked the grounds. Looked at the flasher module on the fender again - yup, ground lead there, double toothed washer between the ring terminal and flasher module - hang on a minute - the flasher module is PLASTIC! My ground wire is attached to a piece of plastic? DUH! What am I missing here? A good ground connection, that's what!
OK, I know the attaching bolt goes through the fender and there's another double toothed washer on the other side of the fender, but that's a rather circuitous route (pun intended) for a good ground connection. So I made up a short jumper wire with a ring terminal at each end, hooked one end up at the existing ground on the flasher module (harness ground ring terminal, double toothed washer, jumper wire ring terminal, all secured with the existing bolt & nut) and ran the other end of the jumper to another existing bolt & double toothed washer on the fender, but now the jumper wire is connected to a STEEL part, not plastic! So far no problems!
OK, I know the attaching bolt goes through the fender and there's another double toothed washer on the other side of the fender, but that's a rather circuitous route (pun intended) for a good ground connection. So I made up a short jumper wire with a ring terminal at each end, hooked one end up at the existing ground on the flasher module (harness ground ring terminal, double toothed washer, jumper wire ring terminal, all secured with the existing bolt & nut) and ran the other end of the jumper to another existing bolt & double toothed washer on the fender, but now the jumper wire is connected to a STEEL part, not plastic! So far no problems!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Way to go Lee! Get them there ground connections good and permanent.
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
I'm still looking for these washers, seems like every new suggestion for a supplier is a dead end.houdel said:
Some part numbers, MS45904-68, MS45904-72 and MX45904-76 for 1/4. 5/16 and 3/8 inch respectively. 7/16 inch may be MS45904-80 and MS45904-84 for 1/2 inch.
Maybe parts that Devilman could stock.
steelandcanvas
Well-known member
- 6,187
- 85
- 48
- Location
- Southwestern Idaho
Protectant
In the electrical industry, we use a product called No-alox or Penetrox. It is a conductive protectant used to keep electrical terminals and connections from oxidizing. Sometimes a larger Home Depot will have this product, best bet would be an electrical wholesale house. Good stuff, I've used it quite often away from work...vehicles, marine, outside, etc.
In the electrical industry, we use a product called No-alox or Penetrox. It is a conductive protectant used to keep electrical terminals and connections from oxidizing. Sometimes a larger Home Depot will have this product, best bet would be an electrical wholesale house. Good stuff, I've used it quite often away from work...vehicles, marine, outside, etc.
acetomatoco
New member
- 2,198
- 7
- 0
RE: Protectant
I have a gazillion of the washers, but you have to buy a radio installation kit to get em... Secondly, you can ground the flasher all you want, but if the fender is not grounded to the frame... nuffin will work... so... make sure you run a jumper to the frame from the cab and the fender...and use the Bjorn rule....
I have a gazillion of the washers, but you have to buy a radio installation kit to get em... Secondly, you can ground the flasher all you want, but if the fender is not grounded to the frame... nuffin will work... so... make sure you run a jumper to the frame from the cab and the fender...and use the Bjorn rule....