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Blinker trouble

Michael

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My turn lights have quit working. Everything else seems to work with the possible exception of the brake lights (it is kind of hard to press the break peddle and watch the lights at the same time). I did a search and learned about the ground wire. The ground was loose but cleaning and tightening didn't fix the problem. From the old posts, it seems the solid state flasher is probably bad. My question is should I just replace the flasher or should I drag out the manual and look for any other problems? I don't suppose you can get a flasher at NAPA? I wonder if the loose ground killed the flasher?
 

Crazyguypa

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windsor, Pa
I had a similar problem. I took out the manual and followed the troubleshooting and it pointed to the flasher relay. However I took apart all the connections and cleaned them real good, coated them with dielectric grease and put em back together and everything still works today with no problems.

My advice would be to follow the troubleshooting manual and clean every connection before you go buy parts that may not need replacing. Then you don't have the trouble of trying to get you money back on the parts you unnecessarily bought. Ask me how I know this...... :roll:
 

doghead

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Why not "bench test" the flasher before replacing it or looking elsewhere? To test the brake lights alone, I back up to the garage door area and step on the brakes at night. The correct flasher is close to$50 and NAPA does not have them(MV stores only).
 
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54reo

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Chester IL
My turn lights have quit working. Everything else seems to work with the possible exception of the brake lights (it is kind of hard to press the break peddle and watch the lights at the same time). I did a search and learned about the ground wire. The ground was loose but cleaning and tightening didn't fix the problem. From the old posts, it seems the solid state flasher is probably bad. My question is should I just replace the flasher or should I drag out the manual and look for any other problems? I don't suppose you can get a flasher at NAPA? I wonder if the loose ground killed the flasher?
DH had the best idea for checking the brake lights if you are alone.

There are three wires in the plug for the flasher marked "A", "B", and "C". "C" is the ground and should be checked first. If you still have no lights following a verification of a good ground, it may be the flasher. To verify, simply make a small jumper wire to slip in from "A" to"B" (installed on the plug) with the plug unplugged, and you should have brake lights and a "steady" burning directional light. If nothing is working with the jumper in, then the issue is elsewhere.

I had my flasher fail this summer after I plugged in my M332 (that had an unknown short to ground). I will be doing the relay mod the Bjorn came up with.
 

HeadWizard

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Chantilly, VA
I think it could be the blinker box oil is low or even out.
I had that problem! Turns out the previous owner had put the wrong oil, 80w-90, in it and when it got cold it was too thick and gummed up. I went to NAPA and got some synthetic 10w-30 BBO which fixed the problem immediately. The blinkers even flash a little faster than before!

Might want to try this first as it's a cheap fix.
 

54reo

Well-known member
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Chester IL
I had that problem! Turns out the previous owner had put the wrong oil, 80w-90, in it and when it got cold it was too thick and gummed up. I went to NAPA and got some synthetic 10w-30 BBO which fixed the problem immediately. The blinkers even flash a little faster than before!

Might want to try this first as it's a cheap fix.
Should make 'em a little brighter too...
 

dabtl

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Location
Denton, Texas
Checking the ground does not mean just wires. I went nuts for a week trying to get the turn signals to work. I finally removed the light guards, cleaned under the base of the guards, used a 3M green pad, and it took until the last new bolt and washer was installed before they began blinking again.
 

hole

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Carnac, I didnt think of that one, my flasher still works bit the bulb in the switch stopped working, do you think I'm low on oil too?:wink:
 

doghead

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Deleted, inappropriate use of humor.
 
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Michael

Active member
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Location
Fulton, MS
DH had the best idea for checking the brake lights if you are alone.

There are three wires in the plug for the flasher marked "A", "B", and "C". "C" is the ground and should be checked first. If you still have no lights following a verification of a good ground, it may be the flasher. To verify, simply make a small jumper wire to slip in from "A" to"B" (installed on the plug) with the plug unplugged, and you should have brake lights and a "steady" burning directional light. If nothing is working with the jumper in, then the issue is elsewhere.

I had my flasher fail this summer after I plugged in my M332 (that had an unknown short to ground). I will be doing the relay mod the Bjorn came up with.

This is the correct answer to my question and pretty much straight out of the TM.

It's too cold to go out at night here. It is actually getting down below freezing now. :)

27. BOTH DIRECTION SIGNALS INOPERATIVE
Test 1. Test left and right flashers.
Step 1. Turn main light switch to SERVICE DRIVE position.
Step 2. Position turn signal lever to LEFT position.
Step 3. Position turn signal lever to RIGHT position.
a. Both left and right turn signals should flash.
b. If turn signals fail to flash, go to test 2.
Test 2. Test solid state flasher.
Step 1. Disconnect leads 467A and 467B from solid state flasher pins A and B.
Step 2. Connect jumper wire from leads 467A to 467B.
Step 3. Place turn signal lever to LEFT position.
Step 4. Place turn signal lever to RIGHT position.
a. Left and right turn signals should work but will not flash. If turn signals work, replace
turn signal flasher (para. 4-20).
b. If voltage is not present, go to malfunction 25 and perform tests 1 through 8.
 
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Michael

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Fulton, MS
It was the flasher. I replaced it with one off of another truck I have. It appears to have the old style flasher so I took some pictures of both. The bad one I took off the truck on the left and the old style one I replaced it with on the right. I took it to get fuel and now I have a leak between the two tires on the middle left axle. Has to be gear oil or brake fluid.

I guess I deserved the ribbing, I have been at this long enough to know I should have looked in the TM first. While slamming the hood may have fixed your truck, I am betting the loose ground is what killed my flasher. They aren't cheep so you might want to check yours.
 

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dabtl

Active member
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Location
Denton, Texas
Bjonr says the new ones are subject to being overloaded by the electrical system. He makes, from time to time, a cure. I hope he has not forgotten my second deuce cure?:?:
 

KaiserM109

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SE Aurora, CO
As a restorer of old 4x4s and now a '66 deuce, bad electrical connections can cause lots of problems. Before getting out the wallet, take every electrical connection apart and clean it. A .17 caliber cleaning brush will help reach into some of the connectors.

Check the ground strap between the power train and the frame. If that is loose or missing it will cause some real strange problems (probably not blinker problems, though). On the '69 Bronco in my avatar it even caused the voltage reference in the dashboard to blow out because the voltage regulator didn't work correctly.

If you are having starter problems check it to see if it is mounted tightly. If it is loose, you should take it apart and clean the face where it mounts because that is an electrical connection, too.

I suspect that lots of good batteries get trashed because of bad connections.

Now for the RTFM response, what TM covers the turn signal system? I can't even find the flasher relay and mine is intermittent too.

Arlyn
 
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Michael

Active member
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Fulton, MS
I was using TM9-2320-361-20 starting at page 2-110. I was using the latest version off of LOGSA. Any of the -20 manuals should cover it.
 
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