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Grease. A2 hub have 2 seals seals inside for the air going thru the hub.not wanting to hijack this thread. but i may have something similar going on with mine. i had to rob a few wheel assemblies off my donor 936A2 to get my truck inspection ready. i noticed as i was taking the CTIS junk off, there was grease in the hub area, along with some in the hub nipple. when i pulled the bad tire off my serviceable 936, i looked in the hub and saw no grease.
there are 2 statements that conflict with each other in the thread, 1 is hub oil, the other is grease. which is it, greased or oil bath hub bearings? no sign of grease, I'm hoping its an oil bath and i couldn't see grease or oil after i rmvd the wheel assy., so i figured oil and it had settled to the bottom of the hub.
then with no signs of grease, i need to tear it down asap, along with the front axle, which i just created a thread on, for the boot replacement.Grease. A2 hub have 2 seals seals inside for the air going thru the hub.
If you choose not to use the CTIS both inner seals can be left out for more grease packing. Over time the outer seal with fail and allow axle oil to get in. It is fine as long as the inner seal holds up.
bearing set or seal set? for seals, if you can find something close to the od of the seal, set the seal in in position, as close to even all the way around (not cocked up on 1 side) and set the "tool" on the seal and start with gentle taps (4-5), remove tool, make sure its not cocked to 1 side and starting to go in, then increase the intensity of the hits till you get a solid thud several times. I'm sure if you are referring to a bearing, it wouldn't be much, if at all any different. if you have some 1/2"-1" aluminum laying around, cut you out a disk about the size (1/8-1/4" smaller than the seal or bearing, if you want to pull the seal bearing in, find center, drill a 1/2" hole and get you some 1/2" all thread, and build you a backing plate that you pull against and tighten the nut on the plate that is against the seal/bearing. is no through hole access, find center of the installer plate and make sure to strike on your center mark to ensure you drive the seal/bearing in straight.Parts for the rebuild are in. I am going to attempt to put it all back together tomorrow. I will be packing the wheel bearings in Lucas Red N Tacky grease. Any better grease for the wheel bearings? For all of my pin and bushings, I use a super heavy 5% moly grease that I get from my local fuel supplier. It is a high temp grease with a 550-degree drop point but I don't think it would be the best option for wheel bearings. I don't have the bearing set tool. Will a 4x4 block of wood work?
I have been able to put outboard drums on A1 axles with some minor machining of the hub .i will agree. i like the concept of ctis, but i don't think its worth the hassle. I'm gonna find some plugs and do away with my set up. the more i thought about it, the less i think i ill get use out of the system. the up side to the a2 style axle, is the 2 pc. hub, no more taking hub and drum off together, making it closer to a 1 person lift.
i was reading your adventure. but since i have an a2, plugs will work fine and won't extend above the hub flange to prevent the wheel from coming off.I have been able to put outboard drums on A1 axles with some minor machining of the hub .
i do have a question though. WILL and is it viable to change the left handed studs out for right handed? i mean the military did it for a reason, just don't know if it was a logical and sound reason. not much the military did seemed back then when i served, nor now, logical.I have been able to put outboard drums on A1 axles with some minor machining of the hub .
Would never expect you to make that change just putting it out there if it can help anyone else . On the wheel studs I think in the old trucks they though centrifical force would keep the nuts from spinning of if they became loose, I haven't made the change because of the expense. On the grease I like amsoil marine because it won't mix with water and can take a lot of heat.i was reading your adventure. but since i have an a2, plugs will work fine and won't extend above the hub flange to prevent the wheel from coming off.
as for getting rid of the ctis, yet possibly still wanting to have something similar, i could build a multiport air line, use the same style adapter we use in aviation to fill tires or accumulators, that thread on the valve stem, and open valve to deflate or inflate. it would work in a pinch if it was truly necessary to have to deflate. but I'm hoping to never be in that predicament.
NO speedy sleeve but I think I will have to put one on. Does anyone know which speedy sleeve will fit?That looks like a speedy sleeve may have been used on that ,take a small sharp cold chisel and see if it peals off. As suggested by simp5782 a new one may be your best bet ,your seal surface is pitted and worn .Probably the start of your failure.
Can you send pics of the plugs when you get them? I need to plug mine as well.then with no signs of grease, i need to tear it down asap, along with the front axle, which i just created a thread on, for the boot replacement.
as of now, I'm not planning on running the CTIS, and will plug the rear hub ports. just need to find something for the front ports, since its just a tube. i may self allocate some plastic plugs from work and pro seal them in place till i decide to reinstall the CTIS, with a manual unit.
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