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bobbed and lifted deuce

nhdiesel

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Sorry to bring up the old controversy of welding on frames...but to add a little more info, besides the truck's, or Govt's, limitations, there are motor vehicles rules in some places. Here in NH there are rules about welding on certain vehicle frames, but there is so much double talk in the rules that most inspection stations just refuse to inspect ANY vehicle with a welded frame. This even includes light trucks with such things as a hitch or bumper brackets welded on, or a rust repair. There are different interpretations of our laws, but I just want to suggest that before actually welding to the frame, check your state laws first.

This is coming from someone licensed to do NH inspections.

Jim
 

Unforgiven

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Not a big deal. I'm thinking of just making an extra crossmember that bolts to the deuce's rear crossmember & back of frame rails, then weld it to the dump hinge. That way DOT is happy, I'm happy, the dump hinge is happy, SS members are happy, and the Deuce frame is happy. Numerous grade-8, fine thread bolts are every bit as strong as welding when bolted with backing plates. They're just tedious to drill.
 

OPCOM

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why do crybabies and haters come to the "modification and hot rodding forum" its like me going to a porn site and complaining about naked women. if you don't have anything nice to say keep it to yourself.
Don't take it so seriously. In ones and zeros, you have "destroyed" the deuce because it is no longer a deuce. It's a 2-ton 4x4 made from a deuce. My dad used to have a fit whenever I would cut out the dash on a 1970 car to put in a decent stereo. And that was in 1980. I built up a Ford Pinto with the standard 2-liter block giving the engine the full treatment and variable timing cam pulley, et. al. alojg with mustange II rear end, straight pipe, etc. About 180HP @ 8000RPM instead of 85 @ 4000.. Nothing was said until I cut a hole in the hood because the 2-BBL Ford carb and air cleaner would not fit. Then I was "cutting up old cars". Well don't worry about it..

That is what this forum is for, doing mods to the trucks. There are always going to be purists that like to see things kept historically correct and we should be happy with them, because they are the ones that will always keep and know the imprtant baseline information, every nut and bolt. One member PMed me after I added a few things because he did not like the holes drilled in the dashboard.

I prefer things stock or reversible, but I also need to enjoy the hobby and make the vehicle more comfortable and useful to me. No one has griped yet about what I did to the M818 but I am sure there are some tractor owners out there who disapproved.

Purists and historians are part of every hobby. I modify electronics equipment and some of it is quite rare and costly. I have for years had comments about 'buggering up' old tube type audio amps.
Too bad if the old RCA theater amp sounds like a McIntosh amp when I am done. For sure because of such improvements, the thing will be better cared for and be around much longer after I am gone.

I like the appearance of what you have done. My only criticism is your mention of welding structural members to the frame instead of making your boxes and bolting them on. Welding to the frame is known to cause cracks and failures in all kinds of vehicle frames but I assume you will inspect often. I welded a lift gate on, but it was to the tail end of the frame away from anything used for suspension.

Detailed pictures of the job are important to the board, to show as many details of custom work as possible so we can learn from it. Please never mind naysayers and add any pics asked for, we will all appreciate it!
 

Unforgiven

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Welding to the frame is known to cause cracks and failures in all kinds of vehicle frames but I assume you will inspect often.
Actually, I've been following this argument on the SS forum for a while. From a "structural" standpoint it's okay to weld the Deuce frame. It is not heat tempered like the 5 ton.

From a "legal" standpoint I do not believe you are allowed to weld the frame unless you are a certified frame-repair shop. But don't quote me. Trailer hitch receivers are often welded on. Maybe that's because they are behind the rear suspension mounting points.

Personally, I believe BOTH bolting, followed by welding, would give the strongest modification. And in the event the welds do crack then at least the bolts are there to keep the truck from falling apart.
 

Hotrodjosh

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Va beach, va
Weldeeeeer

Well, im a hotrod builder, and i weld on nuclear subs.....mig wire does no usually equal a 70000 psi rod, as 7018... But you also do not need to preheat for any reason except to clean the metal. Which you could do just fine with a grinder. You dont need to preheat until you get into hy80 and hy100 steels. A normall hss ( high streght steel) metal is welded just fine with an ambient temp of 65 degrees........ As far as welding on frames... As my knoledge goes where i live, the only thing you cannot weld on is steering components. And on most of the hot rods ive built, we weld those up too. Haha its all fun as long as its safe.

And even though some feel a truck is ruined my modifying it.... They only built the same dang truck for 50 years..... Go find another one. Theres 10 on my craigslist alone! Haha! I looooove the truck! Cant wait to WELD a lift on mine!
 

FreightShaker

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Madison, MS
If you don't mind me asking, how much did those wheels cost ya. Sorry if this has already been said. It's late and don't have time to read all seven pages. Cool looking truck. Wishing I could do the same thing with duals in the rear.
 

asgtoolman

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Florence SC
From the pictures, I can't tell exactly what wheels smw2402 has on his truck, but I had some similiar wheels custom made for my 14x20's on my bobbed deuce by Longs Wheels in Jacksonville FL [call CJ @ 800-874-0869] or visit their internet site.
Mine were only $208.00 ea + shipping, so total bill was about $900.00
They can make anything you want in about 3 weeks total time
 

USMC6062

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Location
St Augustine, FL
Well, im a hotrod builder, and i weld on nuclear subs.....mig wire does no usually equal a 70000 psi rod, as 7018...

I have to disagree, what do you think the "70" in ER70S-6 is in reference to? I will agree that a 7018 rod will make a stronger weld more often than mig, but a "properly" done mig weld is just as strong.
 

joshuaz223

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sorry to rain on your parade but er70s is not the equivalent to 7018. 7018 is a low hydrogen rod for high strength welds on high strength steels. there are no solid wires that equal 7018 but there are dual shield wires that meet the same specs. pre heating also has a lot of other uses it allows for less embrittlement of the area just past the HAZ. and allows for more penetration if you are welder limited. when you weld to thick plates or forgings/castings preheat will keep the welds from ripping out of the heavy material. also for another poster if you a certified "weldor" i would think you would know the proper terminology for your trade. welders are machines. for all of you who like to spout off about how short sighted he was to weld to his "heat treated" frame and felt free to ridicule him with your ignorance. how come you experts are so quiet when you are proven wrong? so willing to come forward with your half assed knowledge to say someone else is wrong but not willing to admit when your wrong. a big suggestion for you internet experts when you repeat opinions, second hand knowledge and wives tales. state them as such then you don't look like quite as big an idiot.
 

USMC6062

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St Augustine, FL
sorry to rain on your parade but er70s is not the equivalent to 7018. 7018 is a low hydrogen rod for high strength welds on high strength steels. there are no solid wires that equal 7018 but there are dual shield wires that meet the same specs. pre heating also has a lot of other uses it allows for less embrittlement of the area just past the HAZ. and allows for more penetration if you are welder limited. when you weld to thick plates or forgings/castings preheat will keep the welds from ripping out of the heavy material. also for another poster if you a certified "weldor" i would think you would know the proper terminology for your trade. welders are machines. for all of you who like to spout off about how short sighted he was to weld to his "heat treated" frame and felt free to ridicule him with your ignorance. how come you experts are so quiet when you are proven wrong? so willing to come forward with your half assed knowledge to say someone else is wrong but not willing to admit when your wrong. a big suggestion for you internet experts when you repeat opinions, second hand knowledge and wives tales. state them as such then you don't look like quite as big an idiot.

Well I would be quiet, but I don't want to be an internet coward, oh no. I guess I was wrong ER70S6 is actually a little stronger than E7018.

Welding Material Sales, Inc. - Your Source for Welding Consumables

Welding Material Sales, Inc. - ER70S6
 

smw2402

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charleston south carolina
I had no idea my truck would be so controversial.... either way im proud to report no welds have failed in any way whatsoever. Im not to the first person to weld on a deuce frame and i can assure you all i wont be the last. Here are some more current pics
 

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Big Bob

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Grants Pass /OR
I am new to this but I would have to agree going that high would requier some side plates on your blocks
I am working on a bob job on a duce but i am also pulling a cab off one duce to replace cab on the bobbed duce it is going ok so far as soon as iI figure out how to post some pictures I will
 

joshuaz223

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i guess if Tensile Strength is the only measure of a welds strength that matters to you thats great. there is a reason 7018 or its equivalent is used on structural welds. while i haven't stayed current in the last 7 years. when i quit welding low hydrogen rod 7018 up to 11018 or its dual shield equivalent was all that was allowed for most certifications on pipe and structures. this is due to its toughness. which is the welds ability to resist cracking from impacts and stress. I'm sure this is why the TM calls for 7018. if you are wanting for more Tensile Strength just use a higher tensile low hydrogen rod. when welding hydraulic cylinders and any well made piece of heavy equipment 11018 is commonly used.
 

USMC6062

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Location
St Augustine, FL
I agree 7018 is a better weld for the most part, but like I said before strength wise a ER70S6 mig weld is just as strong if done correctly. 7018 is used in a a lot of pipe welding applications, I would say mainly because of the environmental factors that come with welding pipe. You usually end up welding outside with the wind blowing, and mig is not going to work well having it's shielding gas blown away.
 

Big Bob

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I do also agree 7018 is a good rod to use but I still beleve side plates would make these lift blocks better I have seen first hand what square tubing will do if it is put under to much presure.The side plates would not only make it look better but it would add to the strength of the end product
 
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