Boost issues?

[Streetgliderx]

Installed my pyro and boost gauge today and at very best in a lugging pull uphill my truck only built 5psi. Pyro ran to about 950-1000 do I have a boost issue or is my truck just weak? New fuel filters, pump runs great. Cranks and runs out up to 2600rpm and 60mph decently well

Thanks fellas for any help

 

[welldigger]

Everything sounds right to me. The turbos on the multi fuel do not put out much boost. Though, judging by the numbers you gave I believe it is safe to turn the max fuel rate a bit on your ip. Just don't let your egt's get above 1200 degrees and you will be fine. Ideally I wouldn't let egt's get over 1100 degrees to keep things on the safe side.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

My boost is pegging a 15 psi boost gauge pulling a long grade and around 1100° on the pyro. My fdc is bypassed but I think the fuel was bumped up prior to me.

 

[steelandcanvas]

The wife and I did the St Patty's Day Parade today...Denver and back I pulled a few small hills at 1000*F and about 7.5# Boost, never dropped below 45mph...but then I cruise her about 50mph.

 

[Floridianson]

You might try and creat boost like it says in the TM. You will need a helper and a place where you have room or a road where you don't have to worrie about anyone else. Place the transfer in high and transmission in first and start to take off and build up to full throttel. (2600 rpm) then hold the brakes while still on full throttel. Holding brakes apply enough brake till the rpm drop to 2400 and hold it steady there. Have helper read out boost numbers as you will be watching the Tac and have plenty to do.
Yes your numbers sound low if you realy were able to creat boost properly. You should be seeing about 11 to 12 lb if your main fuel adjustment has not been tweeked or FDC bypassed. Yes it has been said for years the 1200* is getting hot enough. The problem is with where the probe for the Pyro is placed. The best place to check any cylinder temp is one inch from the exhaust port on the head. Then the problem is which is the hottest cylinder. Most place the probe in a general spot that is easy to drill and general reading of all cylinders. You said 1000* and that if all is correct is not a bad temp to run for what we are and do.

 

[Streetgliderx]

Thanks fellas. Mine is a "C" turbo if that helps, FDC and IP are untouched. Fixin to not be the case. I plan to bypass and bump the fuel a bit. I sort of wish I only got a 15 psi gauge. Kinda unsatisfying seein a 5psi on 30!! Lol.

I put the pyro probe in the rear bank of the manifold pre-turbo.

 

[Floridianson]

Just to get things straight no matter if the FDC is by passed or not the main fuel adjustment is how we control the MAX or minum fuel. If the FDC is bypassed and has no fuel running through it, it will increase the fuel setting by way of it's wedge. If you want to say it goes to max fuel then you have to add that it goes to maximum fuel allowable by way of the FDC not the main fuel adjustment. If one truck was turned up higher than the outher and FDC's were still working on both then we bypass the FDC the truck that was lower might need the main fuel adjustment brought up. Now the truck that was turned up higher and FDC bypassed might be fine or need the main fuel turned down. Not every truck is going to be the same that is the hole point of putting on the boost and pyro so you can tweek your truck. The problem we get into is waisted fuel. What you should be shooting for is a small puff of black when you take off but clears and stays clear even under a load. Now if you want to waist fuel, leave a trail of black unburned fuel from where you started to the place you stop, zip through the gears and pull hills in a higher gear than that's up to you. Just rember along with that comes high exhaust temps and maybe new motors if your not carefull but no more top speed. Bypass your FDC then check boost the way I posted and do it twice to double check readings and I think you will find you are close to where you want to be. By all means do this then report back with your numbers and we can see if a little more tweeking can be done.

 

[Streetgliderx]

Will do man I plan on bypassing this week. I drove it some more yesterday and the absolute most i ever got was 5psi I live in some hilly country. EGT's never got above 1000. And truthfully from the angle I look at my gauges it may have only been 950.... But at cruise running 50 I had 0psi and around 800 EGT. Truck never black smokes either. I don't want to fume for Mosquitos i just want to get back that runnin ability I lost when I went to the 395's

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah you gotta bypass the fdc and turn the fuel up a little. Driving to work this morning I was watch my gauges and just tuning easy I was pushing 10 psi of boost. I'll see if I can get a video after work.

 

[Floridianson]

There is a way to adjust the fuel on the fly but no one has tryed my Idea. The main fuel adjustment that is under the two bolt tin cover and has the two nuts jamed together. The two nuts are just jamed together on a threaded shaft that has the main fuel wedge on the outher side and a spring in the middle to keep the wedge pushed torwards the fire wall. When we increase the fuel we break the outer nut from the inner nut and we try and count how many flats or turns we make on that nut to adjust fuel. I like a black majic marker and mark the inner nut before I do anything then after the outer nut is loose it is easy to count the turns we take to increase or decrease from the original setting that we first had.
Now here is the kicker you won't hurt a thing but when you get the tin cover off and see the twin nuts grab the twin nuts with your best grabbing tool but don't hurt the threads don't twist the nuts dont put the shaft in a bind. Pull straight out in the same direction as the shaft is pointing like you were trying to pull the two nuts and shaft towards the front of the truck. Here you will find that the shaft will pull out quite a bit and you will see threads and the back side of the last nut and it will stop and this is max fuel the wedge can be in. If someone was able to designe a cable brackett and a way to hook it to that shaft and be able to pull it straight out without binding it you could pull the cable from the cab to increase or decrease the fuel from the cab. Pull out control knob on dash increase to what ever higher fuel setting you want decrease when you need right back to the lowest specs set. Someone tryed to do this going through the FDC piston but you can not get MAX fuel out of the FDC and if I rember the cable was backwards push to increase pull to decrease.

 

[Floridianson]

Lieutenant Dan

Glad to see you got thing figured and running well it sounds.

 

[jbayer]

I by-passed my FDC last week. Runs like a scared rabbit now, it was barely able to get out of it's own way before B.P.

Can easily hit 15psi boost, and run EGT up to 850 running through the gears empty on flat land, lot's of smoke.

Will be turning down fuel when the rain stops.

LDT-465-1D, 30,000 miles

Just my experience

 

[Floridianson]

Jbayer did you lower the droop. When we increase the main in anyway we need to lower or turn the droop screw clockwise to lower the fuel that is between 1600 and 2000rpm. You migh be able to get the smoke down abit.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah mine runs good now too but I think I can go more on the fuel.....

I'm going to look into that cable idea.... you could use a locking throttle cable for it.....

 

[jbayer]

Jbayer did you lower the droop. When we increase the main in anyway we need to lower or turn the droop screw clockwise to lower the fuel that is between 1600 and 2000rpm. You migh be able to get the smoke down abit.

No, I have not lowered the droop.
Not sure if I should just try fuel screw or just droop, or both. Maybe should just try droop first?
It does idle much better now, @ 800-850 Rpm after every start since B.P.
Have been reading TM, and other threads on this subject, trying to interpret it/them.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea it gets hard with all the post's and things some people make up. When ever we adjust the main fuel (two nuts) or bypass the FDC it changes the fuel settings for all rpm ranges weather we go up or down. The main fuel is adjusted first to get the boost or temps we are comfortable with. Then the Droop which controls between 1600 and 2000 rpm is adjusted last. That is why the TM has us adjust the boost /fuel at 2400 rpm with the main under proper load (not a hill) then we need to turn down droop to try and get rid of some of the waist/ smoke before the Turbo kicks in and the pistons are up to speed. A little turn clockwise goes a long way with the droop so 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time and checking boost everytime. If I rember it should be 4 lb at 1600rpm or just try a 1/4 turn and see if you lost some smoke but not pep.

 

[jbayer]

Thanks, Floridianson, that helped make it more comprehensible.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea I should just laugh but im still learning everyday to but Gravity??????????????????????
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116334-Deuce-refuses-to-start-this-morning/page3

 

[Streetgliderx]

So I got the FDC bypassed yesterday and let me say WOW the truck is a beast now!!! Pulls 11psi quickly. Only problem is it's real easy to flirt with that 1200* mark. Not a crazy amount of black smoke either. Prob gonna dial it back down. I took a video but I can't figure out how to load it. It's on my iPhone.

Here is a pic of my threads I never touched them and the bolts were still wired so it's not been tampered with.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea on the beast. I will bet a dollar you are pushing more than 11lb my guess 15lb or over. lol