Bought a mep-002

[combat32]

I also seem to have one bad glow plug, it ohms out at 7.7, the other one at 4.6 , i think 4.6 is ok.

 

[Triple Jim]

The 24v charging system puts out only around 7 amps maximum, so it's not like a car's system that puts out a huge current like 100 amps. The car's charging system brings the 12v battery up to 14 or so almost immediately, whereas the generator's system may take an hour or more to bring the battery voltage back to 28+ after starting. Keep an eye on the battery voltage while the generator continues to run and see if it slowly comes up to what you'd expect. My guess is that you'll find it's working as it should.

 

[combat32]

Ok thanks

 

[jamawieb]

I agree with Triple Jim, sounds like it's working correctly. Just run it for a while and make sure the regulator shuts the charge off around 28 volts. I've had a couple of units that would continue to charge and voltage would hit 32 volts before I caught it.
Did you take the fuel take off and clean it out? You may have a pin hole in the bottom, which is very common if fuel was left in the tank and it rust the bottom out. I usually just fiberglass the entire bottom from the outside, if I have any pin holes because it won't be long before other start to open due to vibrations.

 

[combat32]

I didn't take the tank off, it was really clean inside. You are probably right, pinhole or small crack. Good idea with the fiberglass on the bottom.

 

[combat32]

Ok, now I seem to have developed a problem. It was running perfect yesterday, reconnect switch in 120/240v 1 phase, I was showing 240 volts on the voltmeter,

Now it has jumped to 300 on the voltmeter, my multimeter is showing 160 volts at the convience outlet and 160 at the terminal lugs, the voltage adjust knob makes no difference, reads the same all the way up and all the way down.

Any ideas?

 

[Triple Jim]

You've lost regulation. The problem could be (in no particular order)

1. A failed AC regulator board
2. A failed T1
3. A failed T2
4. A failed CVT1 (check resistance between terminals C1 and C2 after removing wires)
5. loose connection to any of the above

 

[combat32]

Took a good look at all connections on T1, T2 and the vr it all looks good. I finally located the cvt1 from the manual and it doesnt look too good. It has a big crack in it, resistance between c1 and c2 is 0.6.

 

[jamawieb]

Don't worry to much about the crack in the CVT1 because most are cracked due to age and vibration. The windings inside are protected by what's behind the plastic, its incredibly hard material. Also, to test CVT1 correctly you need to take the leads off.
99% of the time I've experience high voltage, it was something on the voltage regulator board that failed (usually Q3). I believe Q3, I'm sure Triple Jim can confirm. I would highly recommend buying one of Triple Jim's voltage regulator boards, to see if that fixes it and if it doesn't, it's something you should have on the shelf just in case.

 

[Triple Jim]

Unfortunately, 0.6 ohms between terminals C1 and C2 is way off of the 9.6 ohms ± 10% spec. If you're sure your meter was set correctly and nothing was connected to C1 and C2 when you made the measurement, then you found the problem. There are some available on the used/surplus market, but I wouldn't say they're plentiful.

 

[combat32]

Yes wires were disconnected, i am pretty sure it was a good reading on the multimeter i rechecked it several times.

I found one online listed as for a mep-003 but by the part number they are the same, will check with Delks as well.

Thanks for the help!

 

[DieselAddict]

They are the same on the 5kw and 10kw machines. Only the number of turns of load wiring you wind through them is different.

 

[jamawieb]

Yes wires were disconnected, i am pretty sure it was a good reading on the multimeter i rechecked it several times.

I found one online listed as for a mep-003 but by the part number they are the same, will check with Delks as well.

Thanks for the help!

Make sure you get CVT1 not CT1. CT1 is towards the outside that you can see. CVT1 and CT1 are mounted together and CT1 part number is 72-5176 and CVT1 is 72-5177. CVT1's are difficult to find, it took me about a month of searching before I found one about 6 months ago.

 

[Guyfang]

Instead of checking with Delks, check yourself. All the info you need is in the TM section of SS. If you check yourself, you KNOW its right. Also keep in mind, that 98% (or better) of the parts are the same between the MEP-002 and MEP-003. But ALWAYS check. Been there and done that.

 

[Guyfang]

Christmas prep and work has kept me too busy to work on the 002 lately but had some time last night and this morning. Finally had success, the fuel shut off solenoid seemed to be stuck, but after I got it running it seems to work fine now. Runs pretty good and makes power, but it doesn't seem to be charging quite right. I'm only getting about 26.2 volts at the battery. And I seem to have a small fuel leak at the bottom of the fuel tank but it only seeps a little bit. Pretty happy with this one so far.https://youtu.be/_rYRneKHV50

Rare is it that a "problem" just fixes itself. When you have time, and the weather is good, grab a beer and start going through the fuel system step by step. Read the manual first. The drain petcock could be leaking under the fuel tank, (from the picture, that's the first thing I would check). Start there. Remove tank and check it out. I always, no exceptions, always, use thread tape on every fuel connection, that has threads. Yeah, its a PITA, but then you KNOW its done right. It gives you a chance to inspect each and every component of the fuel system. You KNOW that they are good, or might be a problem later. But as long as you KNOW it's a weak link, you have time to find one at a price you can not pass up, instead of standing there with a cracked hose in your hand at 02:22 and thinking evil thought.

Think of this like male/machine bonding!

 

[combat32]

I'll get back to that for sure got some other issues to deal with first.