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Bought Someone’s M1078 Camper Project- Seeking Direction on a Couple Issues

VoslickZ

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5
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Alaska
With my paramedic background, I originally wanted to build out an old ambulance as a camper. The idea of external locking storage and so on was alluring. Then I started pricing 4x4 models with the specs I wanted (I live in Alaska so it’s a must), and it stopped making financial sense. Fast forward a couple months and I found myself perusing the marketplace and stumbled on something that piqued my interest. It’s a 1997 M1078A0 with a custom aluminum habitat mostly complete minus the floor. It offered a larger platform and more capability than I would ever have with an ambulance based damper. I’ve built out a similarly sized off grid cabin in Alaska and lived in it for a couple years; this is basically the same concept with wheels right? At least that’s what I convinced myself. I know the cheapest thing about these things is the initial purchase price, but the barrier to entry was lower than I would’ve spent on an ambulance platform. I thought it over for a couple weeks and then made a somewhat impulsive decision to purchase it.

Since this time, I’ve researched many of the builds from fellow members on here trying to figure out what direction I want to go with things and learn from others. Of course some of this research would’ve been more productive prior to purchase- hence the aforementioned impulsive piece. But also the pervasive attitude of “figure it out and adapt” was very present when mulling things over. This research mostly left me with a sense of apprehension as I watched the professional level builds progress- knowing their skills and access to tools far exceeded mine. I’m still excited for the challenge, but I’m reinforcing my predetermined fate of a slow build riddled many lessons and mistakes as well.

But one concern I have with the rig is how it’s currently mounted to the subframe. It’s currently bolted directly from the LMTV frame to the subframe. Most the projects I’ve sought to emulate have some sort of system (accomplished through varying means) of allowing the frame to flex independently of the habitat subframe. My question is to what degree is this necessary? Both projects that come to mind are longer which will experience a greater amount of deflection. These builds were also built with steel vs. the aluminum on mine. Can I get away with a little more flex because of the metallurgical properties of aluminum compared to steel? I want to make sure before I go forward I’m not skipping steps that need to be addressed now. I’m tempted to find some varied terrain and test and see, but the rig is not in front of me now so everything is stuck in the theoretical realm for now.

For reference this rig is currently located in Florida, but will eventually be driven back to Alaska (after 1:1 hub conversion kit of course) where it will see lots of off pavement time. And it will not be babied.

Further questions to source the crowd. It currently has a rolled aluminum roof. The previous owner and builder stated he planned to redo it with a sandwich core panel for better insulative properties and moisture resistance. My hesitancy with this is in my experience two different products with different specific heat properties will condensate moisture when exposed to large temperate differences. Which will be a regular occurrence when winter camping in Alaska. Do y’all think the effects of this would be enough to warrant going a different route (or keeping the existing roof)? Or maybe once I spray foam the sides the difference would be marginal? Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and what other things I should be considering.
 

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ramdough

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You will want a compliant way to mount the box. The aluminum is going to crack at the welds if you leave it hard bolted.

The problem with stud toy walls (and joist type roofs), is the stud usually touches the outer skin and the inner wall skin. That creates a thermal bridge. You will get mold or condensation along those lines. I would come up with a way to insulate the studs from the inner skin since you already have so much work already done in the outside.


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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
yep...... your concern is a big one. That set up will rip apart. IMHO this may well be why project stopped and did not move forward. Would need complete re-done in mounting department. Was aware of this rig for sale and asked the seller about it. Was not in the market myself.... but saw that as a huge RED flag.

We need pics of truck chassis to camper to offer any suggestion. Wood strip on chassis .... yes/no.... if box lays on chassis rails yes. Xpedition type campers usually do not/should not.

PS- please take pics of how the builder did the area around the transmission. Am considering same concept on mine. PS- Also as you build a more appropriate sub chassis for this box to sit on... that area will have to be enlarged around transmission for more clearance.
 
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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
condensation..... IMHO just plan on oversized de-humidifier in your build and a way to power it. Of course doing "reasonable" things to mitigate it too will help... Rolled roof has advantage leak wise. Did he glue all the skin on? What about roof? What glue if so?
 
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Mullaney

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Location
Charlotte NC
With my paramedic background, I originally wanted to build out an old ambulance as a camper. The idea of external locking storage and so on was alluring. Then I started pricing 4x4 models with the specs I wanted (I live in Alaska so it’s a must), and it stopped making financial sense. Fast forward a couple months and I found myself perusing the marketplace and stumbled on something that piqued my interest. It’s a 1997 M1078A0 with a custom aluminum habitat mostly complete minus the floor. It offered a larger platform and more capability than I would ever have with an ambulance based damper. I’ve built out a similarly sized off grid cabin in Alaska and lived in it for a couple years; this is basically the same concept with wheels right? At least that’s what I convinced myself. I know the cheapest thing about these things is the initial purchase price, but the barrier to entry was lower than I would’ve spent on an ambulance platform. I thought it over for a couple weeks and then made a somewhat impulsive decision to purchase it.

Since this time, I’ve researched many of the builds from fellow members on here trying to figure out what direction I want to go with things and learn from others. Of course some of this research would’ve been more productive prior to purchase- hence the aforementioned impulsive piece. But also the pervasive attitude of “figure it out and adapt” was very present when mulling things over. This research mostly left me with a sense of apprehension as I watched the professional level builds progress- knowing their skills and access to tools far exceeded mine. I’m still excited for the challenge, but I’m reinforcing my predetermined fate of a slow build riddled many lessons and mistakes as well.

But one concern I have with the rig is how it’s currently mounted to the subframe. It’s currently bolted directly from the LMTV frame to the subframe. Most the projects I’ve sought to emulate have some sort of system (accomplished through varying means) of allowing the frame to flex independently of the habitat subframe. My question is to what degree is this necessary? Both projects that come to mind are longer which will experience a greater amount of deflection. These builds were also built with steel vs. the aluminum on mine. Can I get away with a little more flex because of the metallurgical properties of aluminum compared to steel? I want to make sure before I go forward I’m not skipping steps that need to be addressed now. I’m tempted to find some varied terrain and test and see, but the rig is not in front of me now so everything is stuck in the theoretical realm for now.

For reference this rig is currently located in Florida, but will eventually be driven back to Alaska (after 1:1 hub conversion kit of course) where it will see lots of off pavement time. And it will not be babied.

Further questions to source the crowd. It currently has a rolled aluminum roof. The previous owner and builder stated he planned to redo it with a sandwich core panel for better insulative properties and moisture resistance. My hesitancy with this is in my experience two different products with different specific heat properties will condensate moisture when exposed to large temperate differences. Which will be a regular occurrence when winter camping in Alaska. Do y’all think the effects of this would be enough to warrant going a different route (or keeping the existing roof)? Or maybe once I spray foam the sides the difference would be marginal? Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and what other things I should be considering.
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Well, I can't help but wonder if you couldn't have found a truck a little further away from you up there in Alaska... That is going to be a drive for sure and you may as well pay for a second seat on the airplane to get you and some tools down to the truck. Or maybe you are planning to drive a pickup truck with even bigger toolboxes and a friend.

Best I can tell, from the bottom tip of Alaska down to Branford, Florida (there in the bend of the state) it will be about 60 hours (4086.4 miles) in a passenger car. The tires on this M1078 need to be very carefully looked at. Maybe even be really smart for you to have a few NEW (Not New Old Stock) tires already mounted on rims. Heck for that matter, if it was me there would be 4 brand new tires on the truck before you start that trip. With date stamps that are less than a year old... Also need to have a jack or two and some wood "cribbing" to go along with the really big box of tools.

Are you a diesel mechanic? Do you work on this type of equipment? If not, without insulting you - do you have deep enough pockets to pay for this M1078 to go to the local CAT dealer to be checked out? Every piece of rubber on that engine should be replaced. It is 20+ years old and you will be striking out on a four thousand mile road trip. Naturally the engine oil and filters should be changed, the fuel filters need to be changed and I would buy a case of fuel filters - just in case.

And there is more. A lot more. The rubber cab bushings most likely need to be replaced too. You also need to confirm that the cab tilt functions. Does the air ride (air bags) on the cab of the truck function? Are the bags without weather cracks?

Again, not trying to talk you out of it but you couldn't have picked a much more difficult "recovery" for a new-to-you truck.

Welcome to the Outfit!

Download the Technical Manuals (TM's).

There are several thousand pages of reading. The "Dash 10" (ending in -10) tells you the basics. Worth a look. The other books that are problem determination flow charts and parts manuals. On the side of the road and broken - those will be really helpful.

So far as the bed attachment is concerned, direct bolt isn't good. Affixed at the cab end and large springs to allow movement will be important. I'm sure the guys who have done this will chime in.

Best to you.
This is going to be an adventure!
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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I do not have a comment on the habitat part but what a trip that will be all the way back to alaska. I am 13 months into a truck that was a 1997 with 3500 miles and I still am not prepared to go outside of a 20 mile radius because of all of the little stuff it takes to bring these trucks back up to reliable conditions. Deep pockets, patience, lots of new tools you have never needed, Parts that take a week or a month to get is in your near future. Good luck to you
 

TechnoWeenie

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I drove my M934 from Bragg to Lewis.. ~3000 miles.... Replaced all fluids, did as good of a check as I could.

Lost a tire in MN I think it was, and had to bypass air dryer in OH because of a stuck blow off valve...Also had numerous air line failures.

Anything you think of that can fail, fix beforehand. Easier to replace something, like a belt, before you leave, than lose all your drive accessories on the side of the highway and have to find a replacement AND try to fix it.
 
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