Bouncing like a ball.

chucky

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If your truck has been sitting in the same spot for a long time your going to have hard spots in them till you drive em around till the caseing gets warm and what simp posted above you should be fine! Unless you have a or more slightly bent or out of round wheels but probably in the tire
 

Elijah95

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Btw those Goodyear AT2A’s are good tires but notorious for being egg shaped, and are probably atleast 10 years old. What air pressures are you running? And are all matching wear within 5%?


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Stick Man

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Btw those Goodyear AT2A’s are good tires but notorious for being egg shaped, and are probably atleast 10 years old. What air pressures are you running? And are all matching wear within 5%?


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I will have to check on the pressure, but the tires are new and look the same.
I'll check that this afternoon.
Thanks
 

US6x4

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Bouncing has been attributed to worn dog bones in the past so it would be good to check those. I would be willing to trade you my stock 11R-20s for your 14R20s straight across!

Seems like no one does it anymore for liability reasons but they used to set up a shaving machine beneath a jacked up tire and spin the tire with the engine like on a dyno to make the od true again.
 

Karl kostman

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Stick man nice looking truck! I have a M920 that I put HEMTT rims and 1600x20 tires on and the tires were not balanced of course and I limped that truck to a truck tire shop just outside of town and they injected tire weight beads into the tires through the valve stems I think they put 48 ounces of the beads into each tire and when they were done I drove the truck home on the interstate it was wonderful I even got to use 16th gear. Anyway just so you know about this if other suggestions fail!
Karl
 

peterrrobinson

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Hello guys. I am in a bind and am asking for help. I just bought a 1986 M925 that came with 2-piece rims, 2 with 10 - 3/4" studs and 6 with 10 - 5/8" studs (2 spares), and 14.00-20 tires. So I purchased 8 - 16.00R20 Goodyear AT3 tires to change out, only to discover that the beadlocks are too wide. So I did some research and read that the B3040 beadlock is for that tire, so I bought for all the wheels. However when I installed one into one of the 16.00's the wheel would not bolt up. It is just to wide. I measured the width between the flanges of both type of rims and got 10", but the 16.00 tire with the B3040 beadlock mounted measures 11"! There is no way that beadlock with compress as it is steel with rubber edges. I think my wheels are too narrow for those tires. Is there any 2-piece rims that are 11" between the flanges? I would like to find the cheapest solution. Either change wheels or get a beadlock that is 6-1/2" wide. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Lonnie

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Is the truck OK on smooth roads? If so, it may be tire pressure related.
Is your tread touching the ground to the edge of the tire?

If you aren't running with a load, you can likely reduce the pressure substantially.

With 16:00's I run 35-40psi on the rear. Any more & the outer edges of the tread don't even touch the ground.
I found that 5psi more in 1 set also helped to reduce the oscillation due to a slight difference in frequency.
When I had pressure up over 50, hitting a bump in the road would set off a bounce that seemed to last forever.
I could see the tires bouncing in the mirrors. It seemed to alternate between both axles.

Try reducing pressure about 5psi at a time & adjust accordingly until the ride stabilizes.

If you are hauling, put it back up higher & do not do this with the front steer tires.
 
Hello guys. I am in a bind and am asking for help. I just bought a 1986 M925 that came with 2-piece rims, 2 with 10 - 3/4" studs and 6 with 10 - 5/8" studs (2 spares), and 14.00-20 tires. So I purchased 8 - 16.00R20 Goodyear AT3 tires to change out, only to discover that the beadlocks are too wide. So I did some research and read that the B3040 beadlock is for that tire, so I bought for all the wheels. However when I installed one into one of the 16.00's the wheel would not bolt up. It is just to wide. I measured the width between the flanges of both type of rims and got 10", but the 16.00 tire with the B3040 beadlock mounted measures 11"! There is no way that beadlock with compress as it is steel with rubber edges. I think my wheels are too narrow for those tires. Is there any 2-piece rims that are 11" between the flanges? I would like to find the cheapest solution. Either change wheels or get a beadlock that is 6-1/2" wide. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1640475864590.png1640475900320.png
First off great tire choice. Where did you get them from and how much? Are they retreads?
I have no idea as to why the rim/bead-lock combo are not working together as I haven't my own rig yet and am still in the informational stage in learning so I could have easily run into this issue unknowingly. Are either of these your rim or is there another two piece? I dont have a rig yet but have been looking up some different options. All I have run into so far is the mounting face on the HEMTT rims has more offset so the tires are slightly mounted wider on the vehicle so you have less chance to rub when at full turn with the suspension compressed. I wasn't aware that there might be a third style rim so I am very interested in what you have just in case I end up having the same challenge.
 

G744

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Beadlocks and O-rings are such a pain.

I converted all my 10" wheels to radial tubes in my 14.00R20 AT2A's.

Nary a problem with lumpy tires, no leaks.

Conelrad
 

US6x4

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How much antifreeze are you all adding to 16.00R20s? In the video he mentioned he started with 1 pint (16 oz) and would most likely double it (32 oz) for 14.00-20s, i believe.

A balance bead manufacturer lists 36 oz worth of beads for the 16.00R20 size of tire. Does 36 oz (4.5 cups) of antifreeze seem about right?

Screenshot_20220120-060414_Drive.jpg
 
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