Braden winch tear down

[Jim Hunter]

Hello guys,

I have an Braden LU4 winch that I would like to rebuild...
I am trying to find out where I can get some seals for it and the spreader bar ???
Also is there any trick to how to remove the brake lever-handle from its shaft ???

 

[zak]

If I remember right the handle is held on with a roll pin. Ck with ABLinn or Midwest Military or Vermont Commercial Salvage for parts

 

[T. Highway]

Jim,

Spreader bar and alignment plate is available from Tom @ Snake River 4 X 4, VPW and Midwest Military.

You can get the seals at your local Bearing supply house. Whatever you do don't buy NOS Seals, they will leak.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Lots of info on rebuilding those winches on M715 Zone - Powered by vBulletin
I know its a different truck, but they use the same winch.

 

[Tuko]

i got a full reseal kit from midwest military 2 weeks ago

 

[gringeltaube]

Jim, another usual suspect - er, I mean source... is Vintage Power Wagon.
(Expect receiving some China-made parts, though...)

If you preferred to purchase the seals and bearings locally, I may be able to assist you with dimensions/ brg. numbers.

This excellent write-up has been VERY useful when I rebuilt mine...! (Thanks to the author at ks2krpt@attglobal.net!)

If you are missing the bottom bar - one option is to fab it yourself. The original is made out of aluminum; I would just use mild steel instead. (Dims. attached...)



G.

 

[Jim Hunter]

Thank you all for your help guys
I didnt know that NOS seals will leak!
I have clean the handle area but I cant see an pin or something here...

@Gringeltaube thank you for the spreader bar dimensions I will make one.
Also if you can send me more details from the clutch housing to drum seal it will be great.

Rgds,
Jim

 

[gringeltaube]

In case you didn't find it already: that handle takes a woodruf key and a small allen hex socket set screw on the opposite side.

I made this chart (below) for what I consider the best options for replacement seals...
The pic shows both clutch hsg.-to-drum seals; the original one, and the replacement #44968, already installed.

The only seal where I would accept using a single lip is the small one, for the shift shaft. A fair amount of synthetic (waterproof!) grease should be used there anyways, put in between seal and washer, prior to assembly. It sure will help protect the shaft against corrosion.



G.

 

[Tuko]

did all lu-4's come with the brake? mine does not have one. I dont know if I have a early model but it does not have the "Braden Winch Co" in the semicircle on the right side either, but it does have LU-4 with the corresponding part number on each piece so I do believe its the genuine article. it is on my truck thats a 51. had 3 layers of paint just like the truck too.

 

[Jim Hunter]

Interesting...Got any pics of it ?

 

[Tuko]

I will get some. It does have a keyway on the output shaft where the brake would be. Maybe it was deleted?

One big question I have is what do you guys do to keep water from running down into the winch housing via the shift shaft? there was a lot of corrosion on mine and alot of water in the winch housing. I assume from running into the shift shaft. seems like a design flaw. on the moosecreekmaple rebuild site he says his rebuild was because he had a siezed shaft too.

 

[Tuko]

Interesting...Got any pics of it ?

 

[Jim Hunter]

Never seen one w/o the Braden Winch logo...
Yes it is missing the brake completely...
You can add it if you want as all parts are available...
But the winch mounts are later units (smaller part#)...

I post your pic here for future reference...

Jim

 

[Jim Hunter]

Here is the clutch side housing...
If you see the pic the surface where the steel spacer goes (at the center) is a bit mishaped like to have it pressed down...
I have no idea what might happen...

Jim

 

[gringeltaube]

Press down what? I can't find what you see would be a problem. It is not a critical area there. Just put some moly grease down inside that cavity, before final assembly, to have as a lube reserve.

BTW, do you still have the original (short) setscrew for the fork?


G.

 

[Jim Hunter]

Some slow progress over here...
Thanks to the spreader bar dimensions from Gringeltaube I make some of them from mild steel instead of aluminium...
I work the clutch handle along with some Kroil and now it works fine.
I also make some new housing support bars using the dimensions from an original.
I also bought a tap and clean all the threads...

 

[Jim Hunter]

Start to clean up the one side as well...
The serial # showed up as well LU-4 R 5116156 so this is an 1951 model...
Also four new bolts was installed...