Brake bleed advice

ldmack3

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So I changed the flex hoses in my brake system until such time I can move to a dual system and/or get steel braided hoses. I bought a vacuum bleeder, a cheap one. I started at the right rear brake and went through 3 quarts without getting a solid stream without bubbles; more bubbles than fluid. Then I thought maybe the bleed screw was leaking so I moved over to the LH rear. Same thing. 2 quarts later I give up for the day. It did cycle all the old fluid out but never stopped producing bubbles. The old fluid was very dark and smelled like rubber. DOT3 BTW. I did have trouble getting the lines loose as they were really frozen so I had to pull some hard lines so I could get a good grip on the flex lines. I went back and check all connections for tightness.

Did I crack a hard line or something? Since I can't get them bled, how do I pressurize the system to check for leaks/cracked hard lines by observing leaks? I've always bled brakes with a soldier B so maybe I'm doing something wrong with the bleeder. It does not mention how much pressure so i started at 25 PSI and then went to 50 PSI. I'm afraid if I go too high I'll start pulling air through the wheel cylinders as I have read that does happens.

Open for suggestions/advice any/all help greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 

Elk1111

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Las Cruces NM
So I changed the flex hoses in my brake system until such time I can move to a dual system and/or get steel braided hoses. I bought a vacuum bleeder, a cheap one. I started at the right rear brake and went through 3 quarts without getting a solid stream without bubbles; more bubbles than fluid. Then I thought maybe the bleed screw was leaking so I moved over to the LH rear. Same thing. 2 quarts later I give up for the day. It did cycle all the old fluid out but never stopped producing bubbles. The old fluid was very dark and smelled like rubber. DOT3 BTW. I did have trouble getting the lines loose as they were really frozen so I had to pull some hard lines so I could get a good grip on the flex lines. I went back and check all connections for tightness.

Did I crack a hard line or something? Since I can't get them bled, how do I pressurize the system to check for leaks/cracked hard lines by observing leaks? I've always bled brakes with a soldier B so maybe I'm doing something wrong with the bleeder. It does not mention how much pressure so i started at 25 PSI and then went to 50 PSI. I'm afraid if I go too high I'll start pulling air through the wheel cylinders as I have read that does happens.

Open for suggestions/advice any/all help greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Did you bleed the Master Cylinder first? Personally I’d make a bleeder with a bug sprayer. It works really well and doesn’t cost much.
 

joel

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Location
sioux falls,sd
So I changed the flex hoses in my brake system until such time I can move to a dual system and/or get steel braided hoses. I bought a vacuum bleeder, a cheap one. I started at the right rear brake and went through 3 quarts without getting a solid stream without bubbles; more bubbles than fluid. Then I thought maybe the bleed screw was leaking so I moved over to the LH rear. Same thing. 2 quarts later I give up for the day. It did cycle all the old fluid out but never stopped producing bubbles. The old fluid was very dark and smelled like rubber. DOT3 BTW. I did have trouble getting the lines loose as they were really frozen so I had to pull some hard lines so I could get a good grip on the flex lines. I went back and check all connections for tightness.

Did I crack a hard line or something? Since I can't get them bled, how do I pressurize the system to check for leaks/cracked hard lines by observing leaks? I've always bled brakes with a soldier B so maybe I'm doing something wrong with the bleeder. It does not mention how much pressure so i started at 25 PSI and then went to 50 PSI. I'm afraid if I go too high I'll start pulling air through the wheel cylinders as I have read that does happens.

Open for suggestions/advice any/all help greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
I found sometimes the rubber hose that fit over the air bleed nipple will leak air, so make sure it fits tight
 

ldmack3

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Did you bleed the Master Cylinder first? Personally I’d make a bleeder with a bug sprayer. It works really well and doesn’t cost much.
No I did not. How do you bleed it? I've got a remote reservoir so I'm not at the Master. Never had to do that before using pressure instead of the vac system.
 

Elk1111

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Las Cruces NM
There is a bleed nipple on the air pack that needs to be bled to remove the air from the master cylinder and air pack before moving to the wheels. I don’t have any pictures right now but it’s on the front of the air pack.
 

ldmack3

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N. Central Idaho
There is a bleed nipple on the air pack that needs to be bled to remove the air from the master cylinder and air pack before moving to the wheels. I don’t have any pictures right now but it’s on the front of the air pack.
I'll try it. As soon as I get another gallon of fluid!
Thanks
 

NY Tom

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I bought a 2' long piece of steel pipe from HD. Capped both ends with a reducing fitting. Added bushings down to 1/4" size and a small ball valve on each end. One end has a tee on it actually to fill it with brake fluid.

Fill it up. Close with a pipe plug. Pipe in regulated air from compressor at 15 psi to the top. Bottom has line to master cylinder. This will pressurize the system like you are pumping the pedal.

First bleed the air pack fitting as mentioned above. Then the rears as you were doing starting from farthest point. Do the front last. I completely replaced all brake lines and brake cylinders, air pack rebuilt, and a new master. Took about an hour to bleed the whole thing following this procedure.

Any bleeder that you can keep steady 15 psi of pressure in and the oil level covering the outlet will work. I wish it was this easy to bleed lines on my car.
 

ldmack3

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OK bought a sprayer and just cut off the tip of the wand and with a coupling plugged it into the hose for my remote reservoir. Master bled great. Rears bled great. The other 4 let out a tablespoon some really nasty looking brown liquid and stopped. Next I will get Mrs. Soldier B to press the brake while I try to bleed. Hope this works. Do clogs usually happen at the bleed port? Any harm in pulling the fitting to clean/check? Other than letting air in that wheel I don't see any reason not to.
 

NY Tom

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Could clog there I guess. I have seen some pretty nasty stuff inside the wheel cylinders I took off. Not sure where you are on this truck but it is definitely worth doing the wheel bearings, seals, brake adjustment and wheel cylinder replacement/rebuild when you get a chance. I barely had a functional brake system when I bought this truck. After going all thru it I can drive with confidence...well at least as much as a single circuit brake system can provide!
 

M37M35

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Do clogs usually happen at the bleed port? Any harm in pulling the fitting to clean/check? Other than letting air in that wheel I don't see any reason not to.
They can.
No harm in removing the fitting.
If you can find a willing soldier B, they can stick their finger over the hole while you clean the fitting.
 
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