Brake bleeding doesn't seem to be going as planned

[JCKnife]

I'm sure my MC and airpack work fine, I've been driving this truck for 2 years just pulled the front axles apart to do the boot replacement and in the process also replaced both front wheel cylinders, front brake hoses and 1 hard brake line. So I would think, when properly bled, my pedal would be the same as before I tore everything apart without needing adjustment.

 

[rlwm211]

It sounds like you are doing all the right things.

Make sure the airpack is bleeding out all the air that is in it. This can be done from underneath by cracking the bleeder and pulling down on the brake pedal arm. You can catch all the BFS and re-use it if it is clean.

I am sure you started at the back and have worked forward from the farthest away from the master to the closest.

Not sure what else to offer.

RL

 

[JCKnife]

I'm using a pressure bleeder. I read a couple threads that said leave the brake pedal alone (don't touch it) while the pressure bleeder is hooked up.

 

[rlwm211]

correct....I do not use a pressure bleeder. That is why I said to pull down on the brake pedal arm.

RL

 

[Heavysteven]

Photos of my pedal after I adjusted the brakes and power bleed.

Thats as hard as I can press with my foot at 120 psi.

 

[rlwm211]

At the time you are pressing the pedal, does the truck have air built up?

RL

 

[yolner]

Photos of my pedal after I adjusted the brakes and power bleed.

Thats as hard as I can press with my foot at 120 psi.

Yeah that looks like where I'm at too.

 

[Heavysteven]

Yes truck is at 120 psi idling

 

[rlwm211]

Are the brakes working ok?

If they are that is about what I have.

RL

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

This might do the trick

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/77102-wierd-brake-issue.html


Pay particular attention to the Keith_J's posts if you've bled and adjusted the brakes as you said. I have yet to adjust all mine and make sure I've bled them all.