Brake bleeding procedures m-809

[my blood flows OD]

Afternoon gents,
im looking for the procedure for bleeding the brakes in my m816, my m813, and my wife’s bobbed m-35a2.
so I’ve full searched the tm’s for hours(wicked bad A.D.D. So research is painful) And can’t find the step by step process on brake bleeding.
if anyone can point me in the right direction as to which tm and what pages that would be a huge help.
or if anyone wants to just cover the basics as to what bleeder to start with then I can make my way from there.
thanks

 

[simp5782]

start at the furthest from the brake pedal first. passengers rear. I always open the bleeder valve and let it sit. Full master cylinder. Give it a good 5mins to see if it will come out there on its own. If not I then pump the brakes a few times then crack the bleeder on the air pack and see what happens. If it gets some air bubbles i go back and and start at the passengers rear. 2 person job. pump a few times, hold, open the bleeeder. after a few good streams. have them refill the master from their position. then i go front tandem, front passengers side. then drivers rear, then front tandem and then drivers front last. As they refill the master after every wheel is done. Then i go over each wheel once again.

Procedure is in TM 9-2320-260-20 Figure 8-15

 

[Scrounger]

There are a couple of ways to bleed the brakes. Some are stupid easy, and it goes down hill from there. The easiest is with a power brake breeder. If you can find an old EIS bleeder that was the standard back in the day, Branick makes a nice one currently. They are not cheap, but they work well, it all depends on what your time is worth. The other option is to make one. There are several threads on the forum about that.


To pressure bleed, fill the bleeder with brake fluid, using the adapter fitting connect it to the master cylinder and go to town. The master cylinder and air pack must be bled first. Then work your way back to front. Right rear, left rear, right intermediate, left intermediate, right front then left front. One can get fancy with a clear line on the bleeder to catch the old stuff. I bleed them till the fluid looks good and clean, not just bubble free. With my EIS it only takes ten minutes to bleed the brakes on a truck.


Another option is power vacuum bleeding. Instead pressuring the fluid in, it is vacuumed out. All it takes is keep the master cylinder full and connect the vacuum bleeder to the bleeders and bleed the same way as with pressure bleeding. Decent vacuum bleeders can be bought for well under a $100 and are useful for other things.
Doing it the old way with pumping the pedal and holding is something I would only do in an emergency.

 

[Iceman3005]

If you don't have a power bleeder, I recommend you get one. Takes about 5 minutes to bleed all your brakes! Well maybe longer because of all the walking around, but you get the picture. Its fast!

I have the Motive 250 brake bleeder kit, just a little modifying and it works on the 5 ton. Several online stores have it for under a $100 dollars!

Their stupid chain clamp doesn't work, so I just use a couple of C-clamps.

If you have the remote reservoir like mine does, then just remove the hose of the remote reservoir and hook the power bleeder to that. I tried to get it to work on the cap of the reservoir, but it would just leak.

 

[my blood flows OD]

I tried to take a break bleeder following the instructions on a YouTube video where a guy made one for a deuce and a half very he used a pump sprayer from Home Depot and a couple of fittings. I can get it to pressurize the master cylinder but nothing after that

 

[73m819]

BEFORE you start at the rear axles, bleed the front of mc, then bleed the air pack, then start at the rear axles

 

[my blood flows OD]

BEFORE you start at the rear axles, bleed the front of mc, then bleed the air pack, then start at the rear axles

This was the process that I attempted on my 813. Where is my fairly well rounded mechanical knowledge I assessed the situation and thought this would be the way it should be done. I could not get anything out of the airpack on that truck I believe the airpack is garbage

 

[simp5782]

This was the process that I attempted on my 813. Where is my fairly well rounded mechanical knowledge I assessed the situation and thought this would be the way it should be done. I could not get anything out of the airpack on that truck I believe the airpack is garbage

Or the bleeder valve is crammed full of junk and rusted up. That has been known to happen.

 

[my blood flows OD]

I will check on that. Thank you