Brake Check on 404s - Need Guidance

[crunchylicenseplates]

As Swiss has suggested, brakes are my #1 priority. Got on my creeper and spent some quality time under the Mog. Upon close inspection of my brake system I found these two little presents.

Pinched lines on both Front Left and Front Right brake hard lines. Fortunately rear lines are ok. Braking does not appear to be affected, yet it still concerns me. Expedition Imports has pre-bent replacements, my only concern are the spot welds holding them down.



Knowing nothing about Welding, any recommendations removal and re-attachment to axles once I have new lines in place?

Living in the land of big oil industry, welders are pretty common, so I'll probably just hire one if needed.

I noticed that the Air Compression system would sound off every 10 minutes or so while idling, thinking something was wrong, I traced the air lines and upon reference in the manual and workshop manual, I have Air over Hydraulic Brake with an added Vacuum Booster.

Talking to nice folks at Unipaser, suggested that the Vacuum Booster was not original to my chassis number and was added at a later date. It is documented in the manual and the workshop manual. I found a thread on another forum discussing bypassing it. I think several of you guys are on that other board and posted pictures of your custom bypasses.

How is braking without the Vacuum Booster on 404s with Radio Box (it weights 1500lbs) something tells me I should keep it, or should I?

 

[The FLU farm]

You can make your own brake lines easy enough, or buy ones of the correct length at most parts stores. Unless, of course, Unimogs have a unique thread on the nipples.
Bending them can be done by hand, and/or with tools for the purpose, depending on how hard they are.
And speaking of bending, aren't those tabs welded on one side only? If so, bend them out of the way, replace the line, then tap them back.

 

[crunchylicenseplates]

You can make your own brake lines easy enough, or buy ones of the correct length at most parts stores. Unless, of course, Unimogs have a unique thread on the nipples.
Bending them can be done by hand, and/or with tools for the purpose, depending on how hard they are.
And speaking of bending, aren't those tabs welded on one side only? If so, bend them out of the way, replace the line, then tap them back.

Yes, they have custom threaded connectors on each end:

Looks I'll be ordering these from EI after all.

The tabs will bend up? That's a relief. Will get under there and check tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[The FLU farm]

Yes, they have custom threaded connectors on each end..

Sorry, I wasn't thinking. If those nipples are not standard stuff (which does sound a little unlikely), it's just a matter of reusing them.

 

[crunchylicenseplates]

I'm planning my brake re-do because I found more crimps on the brake line on the front right axle. After doing more reading and looking at diagrams went back and looked at the bleeder valves close up to find one of them has broken off and amazingly (or least I hope) the fluid is still in there. Master reservoir hasn't drained out and brakes feel solid when I step on them. I've never driven a 5T truck before so maybe I just don't know the difference. As someone said in the Flu thread, ignorance is bliss, but when it's about my brakes, I need to second guess it.

Right Front Inside...................Left Front Inside:



Right Rear Inside....................Left Rear Inside:



Judging by the looks it would appear as though (at least according to the article I read on Unimog-Forever Drive Train Tests #3: "Look on the wheels for any leakage for oil, to find out if the seals are still working properly. Don't get it mixed up with leaking wheel brake cylinders or calipers. The oils seals are relatively easy to replace on the 406/416 model, however on the 404 model you will need a hub puller to do the job." If needed, The hub pulling doesn't look like much fun.

I do plan on replacing all the lines and the hoses, bleeder valves and caps. What am I missing, what else do I need to plan for?

Can anyone comment here for me on their experience and what I need to look out for? etc, etc.

As I will be taking the wheels off to look at the cylinders, springs, seals, any suggestions on rust treating the covers as well?

 

[The FLU farm]

As I will be taking the wheels off to look at the cylinders, springs, seals, any suggestions on rust treating the covers as well?

On the bright side, there probably isn't much rust around those portals at this point. Also helpful is that the broken bleeder screw already has a hole in the center, making it easier to remove.
And if the brake work somehow fails to improve deceleration, I'd suggest fixing the horn.

You have some not-so-fun work ahead of you. Hang in there, and try to have fun.

 

[crunchylicenseplates]

On the bright side, there probably isn't much rust around those portals at this point. Also helpful is that the broken bleeder screw already has a hole in the center, making it easier to remove.
And if the brake work somehow fails to improve deceleration, I'd suggest fixing the horn.

You have some not-so-fun work ahead of you. Hang in there, and try to have fun.

Thanks for the quick response. Good point on the backing out the broken off rusted part.

Already fixed the horn, my wife suggested that I replace the loud Hella VW style horn in there with a horn blasters style air horn. If I get through this I may do that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tennmogger]

That slight leakage from the hubs is normal. Maybe a good cleaning so you can see new leaks? Do you know how to check and fill the portal reservoirs? There are 3 ports per portal. Upper two are fill/check, bottom one 'drain', of course. See the operators manual for locations.

I would recommend removing all the wheel cylinders and cleaning them, too. You'll be surprised how much crud accumulates. The cups are standard inch sizes, believe it or not, available at well stocked parts stores. When water accumulates it works its way downward. That's probably why a bleeder rusted stuck. If you find another stuck bleeder, tap on it with a small hammer as you put gentle loosening pressure on it.

A cheap cylinder hone, the kind to spin with a drill, is handy to clean the cylinder bores. Use brake fluid, not oil with the hone.

Use some assembly paste as you put them back together and they will last many more years. I put anti-seize on the bleeder screws.

Removing the brake drums is easier if you back off on the shoes. The two adjusters per wheel, one toward the front, one rearward, adjust like this: The front ones turn clockwise CW to tighten. The rear ones turn CCW to tighten. Reverse that to loosen to remove drums. Note that I'm talking about the front and rear adjuster positions, not the front and rear brakes/axles.

The 3 drum retaining screws per drum are always stuck! A heavy screwdriver and tapping with a hammer usually works.

There are threaded holes in the drums in which to screw in two bolts to lift off the drums. 10mm if I remember right.

Hope that helps.

 

[The FLU farm]

That slight leakage from the hubs is normal.

If that is normal, my leakage is non existent, maybe even negative. Or do you mean normal if nobody has ever cleaned anything off in 45 years?

 

[crunchylicenseplates]

Thank Tenmogger, your posts are always very detailed and very helpful.

Can you guys clue me in on jacking up recommendations as well?
I have 2 20T Hydraulic hand pump jacks that I need to put on top of a base of wood planks (or you tell me) what's best.

After studying these things, it would appear to me (at least) that the screw type is probably the best to go with:


or Pin Style: (this is only as strong as the pin itself)


Instead of the standard pyramid type.

The screw type seems a bit more robust and a better choice.

And as the Mog is higher than most, what (if any) trolley jack is recommended / or needed?

 

[The FLU farm]

I think that even HF's lowest rated steel jack stands would work. A 404 doesn't weight that much.
For a floor jack, it has to be rated at least at what your corner weight is, so again, almost any of them should do the job. And the reach can be achieved with 4x4 and or 6x6s.