Brake drum removal, m37

[Barrman]

I just read your email and figured I better check here before I write back.

Are you going with new hoses and rebuilt/new wheel cylinders? I ask because if you were planning to do that. Grinding off the tie downs isn't as painful since parts are going to be bought anyway.

 

[mkcoen]

WC rebuild kits already ordered. Today was just going to be "exploratory surgery" to see what major components I was going to need before putting it on the road.

 

[mkcoen]

Well I got several suggestions on the drum removal and all started with BFH, although several put a qualifier as "dead blow BFH." So I tried that for about 15 minutes more this morning and no luck.

Just about the time I was going to start pulling the whole drum/hub assembly I got a brilliant idea (it could have come from one of the dogs but I'm not going to give them credit). What did I have that would cause a hammer/vibration action that wasn't me hammering away at it? How about a 24volt, 3/4", ROBOTOOL? I put the lug nuts back on and hammered them down with the Robotool and the drum slid off without even using the bolts to back it out!

My dogs...I mean, I'm a genius sometimes.

 

[Barrman]

Good thinking Mark.

 

[rboltz]

Good Info

I got 11 of the 12 hub screws out using an impact driver this week. However, one remains. I broke 2 tips and one driver and no luck. I'll try heating with the torch and if that fails I may try welding a nut to it. The 11 that came out are not rusted so it baffles me why they get stuck.

 

[ke6rwj]

Clearly it's a personal problem, the bolt just doesn't like you... I know, I had 10... i Ended up using an air hammer with a needle bit..

 

[rboltz]

I got 11 of the 12 hub screws out using an impact driver this week. However, one remains. I broke 2 tips and one driver and no luck. I'll try heating with the torch and if that fails I may try welding a nut to it. The 11 that came out are not rusted so it baffles me why they get stuck.

No luck with heat or freezing. The "new" impact tips are now made in China and they bend right away. Tool steel does not bend, it breaks. More China junk.

So, may need to look at taking the entire hub off and setting it up for drilling it out and/or welding a nut on it. Either way, a chore. Gotta get the books out for hub removal.

 

[pwrwagonfire]

No luck with heat or freezing. The "new" impact tips are now made in China and they bend right away. Tool steel does not bend, it breaks. More China junk.

So, may need to look at taking the entire hub off and setting it up for drilling it out and/or welding a nut on it. Either way, a chore. Gotta get the books out for hub removal.

We're talking about the front hub here correct? I assume you are removing the studs from the hub so that you can install lock out hub flanges?

If this is the case, the way which I took the studs out (I have done this 2 times) was to put two nuts on the studs, and tighten them against each other. they pulled right out. I assume you've tried this already however.


Before replacing them or putting in the bolts for the lock out hubs, I recommend getting a tap that fits those threads and gently running it through, JUST to clean up the threads. I also coated the threads with liquid wrench before letting them be.

 

[pwrwagonfire]

We're talking about the front hub here correct? I assume you are removing the studs from the hub so that you can install lock out hub flanges?

If this is the case, the way which I took the studs out (I have done this 2 times) was to put two nuts on the studs, and tighten them against each other. they pulled right out. I assume you've tried this already however.


Before replacing them or putting in the bolts for the lock out hubs, I recommend getting a tap that fits those threads and gently running it through, JUST to clean up the threads. I also coated the threads with liquid wrench before letting them be.

Also as a side note, at work I replaced rear oil seals that were blown out on one of our WM300s....the studs were so coated and saturated in oil from the bad seals, that they came out with just my fingers

 

[rboltz]

We're talking about the front hub here correct? I assume you are removing the studs from the hub so that you can install lock out hub flanges?

No, trying to get the drum screws out. The 3 flat head 3/8" x 1" that retain the drum to the hub. Got all but one out.

 

[pwrwagonfire]

No, trying to get the drum screws out. The 3 flat head 3/8" x 1" that retain the drum to the hub. Got all but one out.

My mistake! Yea those are a major PITA...I've done that job 3 times myself, only my M37 gave me a really hard time as yours is...it took several hours of drilling, and breaking 3 cheap Chinese easy-outs, but I got it

Keep plugging, good luck!

 

[ncreb]

Oxyacteylene worked for me!

Just this morning, I was trying to get my hubs off to replace the wheel cylinders. I logged on to see how other folk were dealing with the issue.
I applied a liberal amount of Oxyacteylene, enough to make the screw a nice orange/red and then let it have it with a stream of PB blaster. Every one I have tried so far has come right off. Only one had to be heated twice. I have only done the diver side so far. Crossing my fingers for the other side!

I love this site!
Andy

 

[mkcoen]

We're replacing the rear wheel cylinders today on mine. Once you get those slotted screws out I recommend replacing them with recessed hex heads. I can't tell you how much easier it is taking them off with an allen wrench versus a flat screw driver. It may not be stock but makes life more enjoyable when working on them.

I got the idea from 70Deuce earlier in this thread.

 

[ncreb]

Got the passenger side off. biggest problem was the hub not wanting to come off. Naw cleaning and 4 new wheel cylinders!