Brake fluid leak, fix now or fix later?

[NovacaineFix]

On the 3 vs. 5 debate, you guys touched on a curiosity of mine, I would like to hear more input.

From my years as an auto-tech, Dot 3, 4, 5.1 are not compatible with Dot 5 simply because of the base fluid is different. The advantage of 5 over the others is the fact that it is silicone based and does not absorb water or moisture, which is the main cause of brake system component failure. That sludge you talk about is the result of consolidated moisture that has attacked and corroded metal parts within the system.

So basically, when ever you have an open container of Dot 3, 4 or 5.1, it is absorbing moisture from the air, you can't do anything about it except only open the container on super dry days. That moisture will tend to collect in the calipers and wheel cylinders where the heat from braking starts to boil that moisture. Being that water is heavier than brake fluid, it collects in the furthest bottoms of your brake system, corroding everything away until it is flushed out.
Whenever I did a brake job for a customer, even if they didn't pay for a full flush, I would push that fluid out of the calipers and cylinders as part of the brake service and replenish any fluid that was lost.

As for DOT 5, as per the interwebs search, it has a much higher boiling rate than the others, about 500° over DOT 3's 400° and DOT 4 is rated somewhere close to 450°, DOT 5.1 is rated for almost 520°, but it is still a glycol based fluid like 3 & 4. Since 5 does not absorb water aka moisture, it cannot promote corrosion within the system. The only drawback is it sometimes creates small air bubbles as it absorbs air. This is why cars and trucks with ABS systems do not and cannot use DOT 5, the fast moving actuators that pump the brakes for you instead of locking up would churn up the air inside the fluid causing a erratic braking scenario.

As for the seals, if you are converting from one to the other, I believe it would be best to change out the seals to eliminate any possibility of cross contamination within the system. I have never had to do a fluid conversion myself, so I would refer to anyone else who has be the expert for that. Not sure if you can just clean all the seals if they are in good shape and change fluids.


IMO, DOT is far more expensive, but worth the extra cost, especially for a vehicle that may not be a daily driver and not get as much maintenance as other vehicles.

 

[LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B]

Yes has been discussed elsewhere its just my preference and reasoning I had redone my whole system.

 

[The King Machine]

when I overhauled my system I switched to DOT 3. Just because I had a bunch sitting around. I just flushed really well. I've had no trouble since, I bleed the brakes every ounce and awhile.

 

[Valence]

On a side note I use my tranny to slow Down for the most part and try not to ride my brakes just another preference.

I never owned a manual before my deuce. I basically learned to drive a manual in it (I don't think I'd be very good in other manuals though). Anyway, I presented the idea you mention (of using your transmission to help slow you down) to my brother. Besides just letting off the accelerator and leaving it in gear for most of the deceleration process, I asked about also down shifting as I approached an intersection as a means to help slow me down. He answered with a question of his own:

"Which is easier to replace, your clutch/transmission or brake pads?"

I don't know if you meant that you down shift to help slow you down, but his question still rings in my ears years later.


Now, going down a long, steep hill, absolutely, I put it in a gear that'll hold me back well enough so I don't have to ride the brakes (which could equal brake loss at a most inopportune time when no Subway stores are around to catch you!)

 

[LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B]

I slow down long before a light and down shift slowly I just don't ride my brakes is all.I don't haul a lot of weight and mine is bobbed.

 

[daytonatrbo]

I never owned a manual before my deuce. I basically learned to drive a manual in it (I don't think I'd be very good in other manuals though). Anyway, I presented the idea you mention (of using your transmission to help slow you down) to my brother. Besides just letting off the accelerator and leaving it in gear for most of the deceleration process, I asked about also down shifting as I approached an intersection as a means to help slow me down. He answered with a question of his own:

"Which is easier to replace, your clutch/transmission or brake pads?"

I don't know if you meant that you down shift to help slow you down, but his question still rings in my ears years later.


Now, going down a long, steep hill, absolutely, I put it in a gear that'll hold me back well enough so I don't have to ride the brakes (which could equal brake loss at a most inopportune time when no Subway stores are around to catch you!)

I hear a lot of people take that attitude, but the brakes on these trucks really aren't meant to haul it from 45 to 0, or sustain long decel on hills. You need to use engine braking as much as reasonably possible. As long as you are doing it correctly, you won't experience undue wear on the transmission or clutch.

 

[frank8003]

.................transmission to help slow you down........................Which is easier to replace, your clutch/transmission or brake pads?"/QUOTE]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?11482-Downshift-or-not-to-downshift

 

[daytonatrbo]

.................transmission to help slow you down........................Which is easier to replace, your clutch/transmission or brake pads?"/QUOTE]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?11482-Downshift-or-not-to-downshift

Interesting.

I live in a VERY hilly area and I find that the engine does an excellent job of keeping speed and aiding decel, even on some substantial hills. I don't actually drop gears to build more engine brake though.

 

[rustystud]

I never owned a manual before my deuce. I basically learned to drive a manual in it (I don't think I'd be very good in other manuals though). Anyway, I presented the idea you mention (of using your transmission to help slow you down) to my brother. Besides just letting off the accelerator and leaving it in gear for most of the deceleration process, I asked about also down shifting as I approached an intersection as a means to help slow me down. He answered with a question of his own:

"Which is easier to replace, your clutch/transmission or brake pads?"

I don't know if you meant that you down shift to help slow you down, but his question still rings in my ears years later.


Now, going down a long, steep hill, absolutely, I put it in a gear that'll hold me back well enough so I don't have to ride the brakes (which could equal brake loss at a most inopportune time when no Subway stores are around to catch you!)

If you read the operators manual you will see that the military actually discouraged using your transmission to slow down. They preferred you used a lower gear and your brakes. The possibility of an engine over speed and the damage that could cause was a major concern. Also the real possibility of a missed shift, then your totally relying on the brakes to stop you.