Brake issues, need input.

[whyme]

two issues:

no break pressure, no resistance when the i push the brake. the master cylinder was dry when i recovered it. added some DOT5 and still nothing. interestingly the master doesnt seem to be losing fluid when i pump the brake but maybe leaking around the front seal where the peddle attaches. think ive got a bad master as the rest of the system has fluid and seems leak free.

second issue, more question, i read to use DOT5 and every container ive seen is colored, but the fluid that i got out of the wheel cylinders is clear. the truck is strait outta GL. did the government use DOT3? or is there some DOT5 thats clear?

gonna be upset if i have to flush the system, DOT5 isnt cheap.

thank you.

 

[AceHigh]

It is Dot 5, it just looses color with use. You can buy it surplus by the gallon, $30-50 per gal.

Did you bleed it? Several threads on "how to"

I re-read that you got fluid out of the wheel cylinders so you must have bled it, but it still sounds like air in the lines. Good luck

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, if fluid is coming out of the master, rebuild it. Then bleed the system. If you haven't pulled the hubs and looked at the brakes/bearings, I'd do that before you bleed the system.

 

[whyme]

have yet to pull the drums but when we tried to bleed we only got a small amount to come out, it just isn't building any pressure. there is no dampness except from the front right and that looked like a boot. ill take a closer look to be safe of course.

 

[Maverick1701]

no resistance when the i push the brake..

I hate that feeling...when it goes all the way to the floor

 

[SCSG-G4]

Sounds like it's all going into the air pack. It'll start leaking soon, just give it some time.

 

[whyme]

Sounds like it's all going into the air pack. It'll start leaking soon, just give it some time.

the only reason i am not thinking airpack is that the fluid should drain out of the master as i pump it and its not.

 

[glcaines]

You need to rebuild the master cylinder or replace it with a new one. I bought two NOS MCs on e-pay recently for a very reasonable price. Make sure you know the proper procedure for bleeding. It is not difficult.

 

[rlwm211]

I would bleed the air out of the airpack before bleeding the truck. There is a bleeder on the air pack.

You can get an air pocket that will stop the movement of brake fluid through the system. The master does not move enough brake fluid to fill the airpack in one push.

Leaking out of the master can be simply fluid that missed the master when you poured it in.

Now, the issue you should be considering is WHY the master was dry? There is a leak in the system that allowed the fluid to leak out. If you do not find and fix it, you are simply wasting time and expensive brake fluid.

When I received my truck, I found the exact same condition. I bled the system, and got brakes, but eventually found a leaking wheel cylinder. Another year later, I have changed all of the wheel cylinders, replaced the master and rebuilt the air pack. Now I know everything is in good shape and works as it should.

Hope this helps

RL

 

[whyme]

im gonna get a master and one wheel cylinder to take back down with me next week. maybe a airpack rebuild kit too. anything im missing?

 

[whyme]

add to the list of problems the winch... played with it a few min while i was with the truck, didnt engage the pto but i tried to free spool it to no avail, could be the drum brake but add in the fact that the dog clutch lever is stuck solid (disengaged) and i think ive got issues. and yes i moved the flip lock.

 

[AKJEEP]

From what I understand, there is a supplement to the manual when you get to the point of rebuilding the airpack. I didn't know this and I folowed the manual precisly, only to have a solid rock-hard pedal after I rebuilt mine. Took it apart and re-did it 3 times as per the manual, but it never has worked again
one of these days I will have to find that supplement and make them work....until then I just downshift and aim for things that are soft and cheap

 

[WOLFMAN1]

where is the air pack. i have brake issues also. is it called the air hydrulic cylinder?

 

[whyme]

offical name i donno but its located just below the master cylinder, under the drivers floor pan.

 

[Jake0147]

where is the air pack. i have brake issues also. is it called the air hydrulic cylinder?

I've heard a bunch of names for it depending on who you're talking to, but yes that is the same critter.

 

[DiesalDog]

Another thing i would check are the air lines that go into the top of the master i've got a truck from GL with no brakes and tried everything just to find out that some one had the wrong fitting on the line and it wasn't seating properly. There was always a small air leak so it never was able to build any pressure.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

see the problem i am having. is when i turn on the truck and push the brakes. fluid and air come out of the vent fitting attached to the filler cap. i thought i wopuld just cap it off. but someone suggested that it might build too much pressure and pop a seal. can anyone confirm that? vent tube missing is. someone suggested hooking a tube to it and running it up into the cab. my other question is what kind of line or hose can i use with out the brake fluid eatting it

 

[gimpyrobb]

Wolfman, sounds like a seal is bad in your airpack letting the fluid into the air chamber. Sounds like you need to rebuild it.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

well i didnt bleed the system yet. the brakes work. but the vent tube that runs from the master cylinder to a t member on the cross beam is missing. someone stuck a bolt in the t member and left the line off with nothing to stop the fluid from commin g out of the filler cap. try to find out if i cap it would it hurt or do i need to replace the line. like i said brakes work it just shoots out the fluid from the fitting on the filler cap where the line is missing. still airpack?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ahh, I thought you were sying the airpack was leaking fluid out the vent. Nope sounds like you master is ok. DO NOT just put a bolt in it. Add a hose barb and route the hose to the back of the diver's seat area, you'll be fine.