brake line fitting frozen

[bsorcs]

Yet another question!

Replacing the front axle-to-wheel brake hoses. The upstream fitting from the steel line to the tubing fitting was frozen on one side. Soaked it for 1.5 days w/Blaster [wrapped w/soaked cloth]; no go. Ended up using the vice grips to get it off.

Considering replacing the upstream steel tubing section...from the the 3-way to the new tubing...and am concerned about the same situation occurring. Thought about removing the 3-way and both left and right sections and replacing the whole shebang, but I'd still have to break the larger line.

Any suggestions

bs

PS
For what it's worth, a 7/16" [0.4375"] wrench is not a snug fit on these fittings, but an 11 mm).4331"] wrench is. Even given this, I still rounded it.

 

[Kohburn]

if you have the time and money I'd replace it all with fresh line.

otherwise replace the parts that NEED replacing. sometimes applying heat can help, just not too much or the fluid can start to burn..

 

[Autocar]

Make sure you use a "fitting" wrench-sometimes called an air conditioning wrench. It is a 6 point that wraps around the fitting with a slot just big enough for the tubing to slip thru and it is much thicker and stiffer than a regular end wrench. It doesn't spread apart and round the corners like a regular end wrench.

 

[glcaines]

Make sure you use a "fitting" wrench-sometimes called an air conditioning wrench. It is a 6 point that wraps around the fitting with a slot just big enough for the tubing to slip thru and it is much thicker and stiffer than a regular end wrench. It doesn't spread apart and round the corners like a regular end wrench.

I believe the correct name is 'tubing wrench'. And I agree. Using a tubing wrench will almost always break the fitting free with zero damage.

 

[bsorcs]

Thanks, gentlemen. Heading out for a flaring kit, maybe tubing, and a tubing wrench or three. It's always a good day when one learns something.

bs

 

[KsM715]

What type of flare are the deuce brake lines? Single or double. I need to cut and shorten the rear of mine for the bob this weekend.

 

[bguy193]

Sometimes flare nut wrenches want to spread open and slip on stubborn nuts which can still be a big pain in the neck. But a trick my grand dad taught me is to take a pair of channel locks to the opposing side of the wrench and bite down on the mouth of the wrench itself while turning to keep it from spreading and slipping. I have used that trick on many brake lines as well as many other flare nut preassure fittings and its worked for me. Good luck.......

What type of flare are the deuce brake lines? Single or double. I need to cut and shorten the rear of mine for the bob this weekend.

Brake lines are a double flare fitting and those large lines can be hard to flare sometimes.

 

[DieselBob]

Both of my front lines were hard to get loose. Applied a sparing amount of heat, tapped around the nut several times and used a tubing / flare nut wrench to break them loose.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Thanks, gentlemen. Heading out for a flaring kit, maybe tubing, and a tubing wrench or three. It's always a good day when one learns something.
bs

Get a set of tubing wrenches 1/4" to 7/8". Sears Craftsman calls them flare nut wrenches. Buy a set, you won't regret the purchase.

 

[crasheej]

Some times you need two sets of wrenches to get the job done.

 

[mudguppy]

my line wrenches rounded them off also. most of these lines have been on for years won't be coming off without vice-grips.

often, if you just start with vice grips and take care to use the flat part of the jaws on the flats of the nuts you can break them loose without any damage to the nuts.

or you can keep trying wrenches and ensure that damage occurs.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I too have had flare nut wrenches fail. Even knew about the Vise-grip trick. Sometimes its just best to replace the lines. If you can save the old lines(cut the tube at the nut), it will help you bend up the new ones!

 

[bsorcs]

I suspect that some of the fittings are either original ['73] or 20 or so years old, based on the painted-over dirt on the frame and axle. I ended up cutting off the fitting [Dremel] at the wheel end of the steel line, then the flared end; could have kept the flare. I picked up 4 used tubing wrenches that should cover any tubing on the truck, a rigid double-flare kit, and some of the little male fittings for the tubing ends. The 9/16 tubing wrench worked slicker 'n snot on the inboard end of the frame-to-axle steel tubing [I'll keep the vice-grip tip in mind for down the road, BGUY193], so that line is off for cleaning and tweaking to more effectively fit around the springs and shock. Do all of the deuces have bending springs on the lines? That caused a bit of delay, as it extended all the way to the fitting, until I realized that I could slip the wrench over the other end and run it up to the fitting.

Tamale I'll double-flare the cut end; flush the MC, air pack, and lines with alcohol; hook everything up; re-charge with bfs; bleed the lines; and hopefully get it on the road for a test, insh'allah.

Then I'll start looking more closely at the suite of leaks! That, too, should be educational.

For what it's worth, I'll be heading to sw Oregon after Thanksgiving to pick up a boat. If anyone needs anything picked up or delivered enroute, I'm likely available.

bs

 

[stumps]

One thing I have recently run into is a really wonderful brake/fuel tubing called Poly-Armour. It is easy to bend, has a nice additional plastic coating to improve its life over zinc coated tubing, and it is even olive drab in color. It is the OEM tubing used in most new cars today.

However, all is not rosy! Something that they do to make the tubing so that it won't collapse when you make tight bends without tools, makes the sidewalls vary in their temper. I find that if I use one of the screw type double flaring tools (such as K-D, or Napa), the double flaring die will slip sideways, as one sidewall crushes before the other, and the resulting double flare will be bigger on one side than the other. You can't get a reliable seal that way.

If you use Poly-Armour tubing (available from Napa, CarQuest, and others), you really need to use a high quality flaring tool. The only one that I found that will make flares in Poly-Armour line with 100% reliability is a hydraulic tool made by Master-Cool. Very expensive, but a treat to use.

-Chuck

 

[bsorcs]

Is anyone using the armor-coil brake line from Grainger? Looks like what is now on my truck and would seem to be a decent replacement if the coil is removable...trimming, etc.

 

[Kohburn]

I've used the coil covered line before - the coil just snips off with wire cutters.

 

[housemover]

I have used KNIPEX pliers to remove brake fittings before. They grip like you can't imagine. You can also buy them thru snap on dealers about a 100.00 a pair various sizes.

 

[stumps]

Is anyone using the armor-coil brake line from Grainger? Looks like what is now on my truck and would seem to be a decent replacement if the coil is removable...trimming, etc.

The biggest problem with all of the coil wrapped brake line is the coil wrapping keeps the salt and dirt packed against the brake line. Every time the lines get wet or damp, the salt continues its corrosive action. I find that my lines always rust through in those areas that are coil wrapped first.

I will sometimes slip a piece of plastic tubing over line in areas where I worry about rubbing causing problems.... but I admit that doing so worries me for the same reason as the coil wrapped line worries me.

Also, Granger costs 20 to 50% more than everyone else on brake line, and automotive parts.

-Chuck

 

[Kohburn]

yeah, if installing new coil wrapped line always coat the coils with a thick layer of a corrosion inhibiting paint.

 

[KsM715]

What is the size of the line going to the rear of the deuce? If I can buy a factory made lenght that goes from the t fitting under the cab to the rear Id rather just replace it than try to flare it on my own.